SYSTEM #09

The latest issue features a 140-page portfolio by Juergen Teller and a 52-page supplement dedicated to Raf Simon´s first season at Calvin Klein. Not enough? Hmm, doubt it, but there´s more, like the Pulitzer-Prize winning critic Robin Givhan, sound and visual activists Michael Gaubert and Frédéric Sanchez,…and it continues.

CALVIN KLEIN SPRING 2017 AD CAMPAIGN

Drop by drop Calvin Klein is releasing Raf Simon´s work since he took the helm at this New York based brand. Before it´s official runaway debut during New York Fashion Week, exactly on 10^th February, the brand already introduced Simons´s first official collection from the line "By Appointment", as they new logo, made in collaboration between the Raf Simons  and Peter Saville.  And now it´s the time for the men´s S/S 2017 ad campaign, photographed by one and only Willy Vanderperre at the Rubell Family Collection in Miami, styled by Olivier Rizzo and features three models standing in front of canvases by the likes of Richard Prince, Andy Warhol and Sterling Ruby, as well as sculptures by Dan Flavin. 

CALVIN KLEIN BY APPOINTMENT

There was no way to start in traditional, fashion-calendar way for Raf Simons. By surprise his first work as Calvin Klein´s chief creative officer was revealed directly to the internet on January 2, after all everyone thought that he will debut with the brand´s F/W 2017/2018 collection, with a show scheduled for February 10 during NYFW. Images of the 14-piece made-to-measure collection, photographed by Willy Vanderperre that among various models features also "Strange Things" actress Millie Bobby Brown, were posted on the brand´s official Instagram account with more additional information at calvinklein.com.

DISTORTED

raf simons distorted neckline sweater

_____________________________

TO ROBERT

Raf Simons made his return to Pitti Uomo in its proper, trademark way; he transformed Florence´s Stazione Leopolda into a 90´s inspired warehouse, "equipped" with electronic music, some coloured spotlights and an extent of distressed old mannequins turned into installation, showcasing a range of the brand´s past, iconic pieces, a sort of celebration for the brand´s 20^th anniversary. In that atmosphere, accentuated by the music from the "King Arthur" opera, Simons presented a collection that was not only inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe´s work, but was actually a true-homage to this giant of modern American photography, known for his really striking black and white images, among them loads of self-portraits, nudes, still lives and New York´s underground BSDM scene of the ´60s and the ´70s.

"I was contacted by the foundation, usually it’s me contacting the artists," Simons said right after the show. "They wanted to see if these could be transported to another field or medium."

The designer had free access to Mapplethorpe´s complete archive. He selected several images from different periods of the photographer´s career, including portraits of Patti Smith, which he used as prints on every single outfit presented on a runway. The result is a collection evoking New York underground mood, made of oversized cotton shirts, apron skirts over slim pants, apron tops and oversized, distressed sweaters with a very low neckline, revealing photo-prints featured on tops.

DESTROYED

raf simons oversize sweater in white or yellow

___________________________________

RAF SIMONS F/W 2016/2017 AD CAMPAIGN

You never change the winning team and if beside everything are your long-time friends, then this creative circle is more than solid. Luca Lemaire, Simons’ muse, once again graces the brand´s campaign, shot by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo; the last two knows Raf since his early days while studying in Antwerp.

NOVELTIES #54

RAF SIMONS + calvin klein

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

All rumours and speculations are finally over, because from Tuesday 02.08 is official – Raf Simons joins Calvin Klein as the new Chief Creative officer with his long-time collaborator (right hand) Pieter Mullier as creative director. The brand confirmed that with a statement posted on Instagram.

Surprised? Despite everything he said in his press release announcing his “divorce” from Dior “It is a decision based entirely and equally on my desire to focus on other interests in my life, including my own brand, and the passions that drive me outside my work,” not at all. What good/ great he can/ will bring to the brand and even to the whole NewYork Fashion (scene), as usual time and, of course, facts will tell. Cheers to Raf!

other novelties ...

NIGHTMARES AND DREAMS

The marvellous F/W 2016/2017collection of Raf Simons comes to life from the catwalk to the streets of Paris, firstly “published” as a video series that ran between 10 to 30 seconds on Instagram and here made in one video that you can see below. Statement pieces from the collection, like oversized tops, patched-up sweaters works heavenly as juxtaposition to different parts of Parisian neighbourhoods.

20TH

Simons eponymous brand celebrated 20^th anniversary with this collection and it was the first one as a post (free from) Dior. He celebrated it (both?) by making a collection where David Lynch´s "Twin Peaks" meets the "Breakfast Club" under  influences from designer Martin Margiela and the artist Cindy Sherman´s retrospective "United Horrors", everything “embossed” into his trademark aesthetic. That´s why loads of his school-boys wore oversized, distressed V-neck sweaters or cardigans with that "eaten by moths" effects, with exaggerated-long, till-the-knee, sleeves, matched with bright polos or shirts underneath, while others opted for maxi puffers and tailored check coats. Every-single one wore slim-fit three-quarter-length pleated pants accentuating this even more the volume happening at the top-part. 

NOVELTIES #47

it´s CALVIN KLEIN´s turn

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Drama-acts seem not to have an end in the fashion world. Already countless changes happened this year, here came a new one. All the birds sang it, so all the ears should heard it – that this time was a "cleaning" moment, or it´s properly and more kind to say "refreshment" at Calvin Klein. The design duo, Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli, are exiting from the company, in other words, after 13 years Costa as a creative director of Calvin Klein Collection's womenswear line and Zucchelli as a creative director of Calvin Klein Collection's menswear line, are no longer part of this American brand. Some speculations about why this move and consequently about the duo´s (possible) successor are already mentioned in one of the novelties below. 

other novelties...

RAF SIMONS S/S 2016 AD CAMPAIGN

Raf Simons released today the newest ad campaign for S/S 2016 and its first one for his eponymous label since he left Dior. There´s no double guessing who was in charge of it - his long-term team, composed by stylist Olivier Rizzo and photographer Willy Vanderperre, not to mention his muse, Belgian  model Luca Lemaire. Simons will show his F/W 2016 collection in Paris later today, coinciding with the launch of his brand new website.

NOVELTIES #41

THE ROW holds their pre-fall imagery
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

What Céline has done for years and still doing it, some American brands are following the French luxury house steps. What I am talking about? About releasing high-resolution images of pre-collections right on a day when these collections are hitting stores. As it did Proenza Schouler two weeks ago, now it´s time for The Row to hold the brand´s pre-fall imagery until April.  Everybody who was invited – fashion business insiders – to take a look at the brand´s latest collection, was also informed that there will be not distributive images of the collection until the mid-April, when it starts hitting sales floors.

So there will probably be a bit of “hard-time” for Zara and other fashion-street-like retailers that intensively all these years “used” some ideas straight from big-brands and turned them into their fast-selling collections; but I guess that Inditext (Zara´s mother-house) will not be stopped by the first obstacle on its way, when made only in first 9 months this year 2 billion of profits. Don´t you think?

other novelties...

NOVELTIES #38

ALAÏA´s l´extrait de parfum
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Even it was just this September when the French fashion house released its first eponymous fragrance, the brand launches the second scent; a rich mix of violet, musk, iris and vanilla alluding to the essence of bare skin draped in delicate designs. Perfect for winter-time.

other novelties...

AMONG BOWS

dior s/s 2016

photographer morgan o'donovan
paris fashion week wmns
__________________________

NOVELTIES #37

no more RAF SIMONS at dior

 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Raf Simons announced that is leaving Christian Dior, after three and a half years at the helm of the luxury French fashion house, citing personal reasons. This is not really a true novelty anymore; actually the news is already a part of public dominion, but still a must-report, due its importance and heaviness in the fashion industry.

He's departing Dior after he "reached this decision for personal reasons", said Dior in a statement.

"It is after careful and long consideration that I have decided to leave my position as creative director of Christian Dior's women's collection. It is a decision based entirely and equally on my desire to focus on other interests in my life, including my own brand, and the passions that drive me outside my work. Christian Dior is an extraordinary company, and it has been an immense privilege to write a few pages of this magnificent book." – said Raf.

A successor and all novelties in relation to Dior´s future are yet to be announced.

other novelties...

RAF SIMONS F/W 2015/2016 AD CAMPAIGN

photographer willy vanderperre

stylist olivier rizzo

hair anthony turner

models luca lemaire, artur chruszcz, jonas boons and niels trispel

___________________________________________________

Simons´ F/W 2015/2016, inspired by his formative school year and featuring among others lab coats decorated with scrawls, is photographed by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo, his long-time collaborators and friends since the Antwerp years.

THE 35TH BIRTHDAY EDITION UPDATES

Two weeks ago we "talked" (watch) about 18 different covers for the i-D 35th birthday edition and you can imagine a proper birthday, without something even more special? Well, not...I suppose. True. There are 11-limited edition covers made by designers: Alexander Wang for Balenciaga, Phoebe Philo, Karl Lagerfeld, Christopher Kane, Raf Simons for Dior, Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy, Jeremy Scott for Moschino, J.W. Anderson, Palace, Supreme and Vivienne Westwood. Now in total 29 covers! Which is your favourite one?

NOVELTIES #17

vaccarello´s debut collection for VERSUS VERSACE

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

We did say it many times and nothing has changed; actually fashion in its schedule-calendar things is getting crazier and crazier. Summer didn´t officially started yet, while many fashion houses are into their pre-fall 2016 season already. We are also one, max two steps away before the S/S2016 menswear´s collections will start. To get even more confused with all seasons and everything (the best way to know in which season are we now, is to look your weather situation) “helped us” Versace.  Few days ago the Italian fashion house showcased in London the F/W 2015/2016 collection for Versus Versace; the debut one by Anthony Vaccarello. In total 17 looks, three among them for men, full of Versace dna (and super-pleased that there are no logos and fluos).  You can take a look and even buy already the pieces from the collection on their main site.

other novelties...

VERY LIGHT, ALMOST PLAYFUL AND SO YOUNG

It´s not anymore strange, actually it´s already obvious, that big fashion (power) houses shows also their value by choosing the location for their in-between (and the most sellable) collections. If for the resort 2016 Chanel opted for the Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul and Louis Vuitton for the Bob Hope Estate in Palm Spring, was Dior “forced” doing similar. As distinct from other two fashion forces, the French fashion house decided to remain in Europe, exactly at the Palais Bulles (between Cannes and Monaco) – Pier Cardin´s retro futuristic mansion, designed in 1975 by Antti Lovag and finished in 1984.

Raf Simons´s goal for this collection was to make a sort of a statement what his design really is – an idea of freedom, playfulness and individuality. Inspired by the colours, the light and the landscapes of the French Riviera, Simons made a true collage by mixing achieve textures, designs and artisanal techniques with the variety of the Riviera. Painter blouses, jackets with maxi pockets, playsuits, cropped sailor pants paired with Lurex-striped tops and sleek tennis dresses. He didn´t forget to add the easiness and the holiday spirit of the place. Sun-kissed colours, leather flip-flops, flat booties and weavy models hairs were prone to evoke that.