VILLA ZEGNA, WORN BY LIGHT

 

    original images and video courtesy ©Zegna

Dubai offered Alessandro Sartori a landscape demanding a singular form of attention. Inside the Opera House, reimagined as Villa Zegna, the Spring/Summer 2026 collection breathed in measured proximity to the heat, the air, and the desert sand. The setting dictated the rhythm of the cloth, framing a wardrobe calibrated for the honesty of exposure and the grace of movement. 

Sartori’s narrative began with fabric intelligence. There is a profound ethics in the way these materials behave. Linen, poplin, and silk suits appeared as though washed into softened stripes, their surfaces already yielding to the body’s heat. Silk tailoring reached a ghostly lightness, suits weighing a mere three hundred grams, articulating a value system where portability becomes a spiritual asset. The construction remained precise, achieving an ease born of balance and structural harmony. 

Leather entered this sanctuary in a transformed register. Washed and softened until it reached absolute pliancy, it moved as a mirror to the body, a second skin responsive to the smallest gesture. Knit leathers, sanded hemp twills, and rustic hand-spun silks expanded a tactile vocabulary grounded in material behaviour and the truth of the surface. This is the Zegna strength: innovation expressed through stillness. 

SUPERFINE: TAILORING BLACK STYLE

 

A quiet revolution in fabric and form, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style is the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s most intimate yet resonant fashion exhibition in years. Spanning over three centuries, it traces how Black style, rooted in self-determination, resistance, and cultural brilliance, has shaped the language of tailoring. 

Curated by Andrew Bolton and Monica L. Miller, the exhibition brings together over 200 pieces: garments, portraits, archival photographs, and personal artefacts. From 18th-century silhouettes to contemporary statements by designers like Grace Wales Bonner and Virgil Abloh, Superfine unfolds across twelve themes, exploring presence, ownership, adornment, and the enduring power of "cool." 

SAINT LAURENT WINTER 2024 CAMPAIGN

 

The allure of the sheerness, adorned with some luscious marabou jackets and razor-sharp stilettos of the Saint Laurent winter 2024 collection, translated into a video directed by Juergen Teller and featuring Kate Moss, Charlotte Rampling and Anja Rubik, among others.

GUCCI HORSEBIT FINE JEWELLERY

Gucci has relaunched its signature Horsebit fine jewellery collection for its 20th anniversary. The collection features iconic equestrian-inspired hardware beautifully incorporated into necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and rings. 

ELEGANT, SOPHISTICATED AND A BIT PRAGMATIC

 

Imagine the end of a sunny day, when the light fades just before sunset, deserted streets bathed in golden light, a perfect backdrop for Ami S/S 2025 collected, which took place in an empty Haussmann-style building in SaintGermain-des-Prés, close to the River Sein. Alexandre Mattiussi's focus for the upcoming summer is on Ami essentials, so-called core pieces "built" with quality materials, like light wool and soft cotton. 

A DAILY ELEGANCE WITH A SENSUAL TOUCH

 

On June 19, 2024, at its headquarters on 11 Places des Vosges in the Marais district of Paris, Lemaire showcased the S/S 2025 collection, a highlighted juxtaposition of rugged and delicate elements, featuring graceful and layered ensembles contrasted with robust cotton drill and leather, as well as more structured workwear-inspired silhouettes. A daily elegance with a sensual touch.

SAINT LAURENT MEN WINTER 2024 AD CAMPAIGN

 

    photos and video courtesy ©Saint Laurent

The campaign, photographed and directed by Glen Luchford, is a true homage to great masters, where we can see scenes inspired by Michelangelo and Caravaggio to Édouard Manet, like Manet’s 1863 masterpiece "Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe" or the "Boy With a Basket of Fruit" as painted by Caravaggio, with a modern twist – a hint of playful sensuality inspired by 20th-century film directors like Visconti and Pasolini. 

TECHNO-UTILITARIAN

If you ever thought to get an easy, specific, one-thing collection at Prada, you were wrong or you never really got Miuccia´s aesthetic, yeah that famous "the beauty of ugly." In this this occasion the focus is on leisurewear/sportswear. Sounds easy, too easy for this Milanese brand, and you are right, because Miuccia this time sees his man (and woman, as it is a part of the show too, showcasing traditionally a pre-collection) sharing the wardrobe with a traveller, parachutist, explorer and even a cowboy. Utilitarian style goes hand-by-hand with active-wear, a galore of layered wardrobe made mostly by technical fabrics, shoes included. Not to mention the accessories of the season, at least for Prada, the return on the spotlight of the brand´s nylon backpack, originally invented by dame Prada in the 1990´s, the one that among other Prada nylon-accessories started to make a fortune to the brand. 

10 YEARS OF COS

It´s already a decade of art-inspired design and refined tailoring, a decade of those elevated basics that we all love and that enrich our daily fashion/life journeys. To celebrate this anniversary, Cos made a limited edition collection translated in 10-pieces. Discover it here.

DRIES

Few weeks ago Dries Van Noten presented his latest women´s-wear collection, his 100^th show of his career, celebrated by Erin O´Connor,  Nadja Auermann, Guinevere van Seenus, Amber Valetta and Caroly Murphy on the runway. Now can anyone get inspired by the rich archive of this Belgian designer.  How?  Five days ago the brand started with posting the footage from its archive runway shows every day for in total 100 days. The only "rule" is that for 24 hours viewers can enjoy the video in all its beauty, sound included. Once the clock tik´s out, the video will be placed under the "silent archives" part of the website, where silent means literally video(s) without sound. 

And that´s not all.

EASY BREEZY

Easy-breezy can we name it in short, a collection of many Howell´s signature pieces, like fine knits, roomy raincoats and cropped pants, matched with more, let´s call it "seasonal-pieces" or more eye-catching ones, like knee-length skirt with a layer of a navy tulle or metallic ensembles, which at the end still look very chic and simple as everything made by her. 

TILDA SWINTON X GENTLE MONSTER

It comes as a celebration of creativity and independence, not to mention unique style that both share, with three models of oversized rounded frames, each in three different colours. Discover more about the collection here. 

80´S BOLD SPIRIT WITH 40´S SENSUALITY BASE

The supersize movement continues even at the Jil Sander fashion house. Rodolfo Paglialunga proposed a true-minimal Sander-esque collection, but turned on the volume with super-wide shoulders, emphasized even more due the cinching waistline. After all the whole collection was made by oversize slash “borrowed from men” tailoring; from shirts with oversize proportions, Bermuda shorts with different “stages” of bagginess, all double-breasted jackets and pinstripe suiting to those sculptural pleating sheath dresses with batwing sleeves, evoking the 80´s bold woman spirit with a sensuality base of the 40´s.

SENSUALITY MEETS COMFORT

Who likes minimal, low fuss and chic dressing by London-based Brazilian designer Barbara Casasola, will not be disappointed with her S/S 2017 collection. Actually this one, in our opinion, is even more appealing than the previous ones, while the execution is always impeccable. Who cannot find lovely her, yet become signature, ribbed fluid dresses, or waist cinched ankle cut jumpsuits, long-line lapelled blazers or loose shirts worn over boyish shorts, full skirts, long shirtdresses, tank tops and loose pants in neutral, earthy tones. Sensuality meets comfort, with no-fuss, but very rich in her minimalism. 

MULTICULTURAL FUSION

This can be Jonny Johansson answer, point of view on that at the end we are all immigrants by putting a collection where there are no ethnic boundaries, no limitations, but a fusion of different cultures and people, translated in simple, oversize shapes,  with rich textures and patterns, like bohemian caftans, patchwork knit-dresses in fabrics reminding Berber blankets, workwear-inspired overalls, loose judo pants and envelope robe coats and bed jackets, not to mention those Jais crystal-studded loafers.

VERROU

Geometric, classy and inspired by the double folding locks, this is Verrou, a new-born at Hermès. 

A TRUE ANTI-CONFORMIST

Models walked round of sinuous glass pavilions created by the artist Dan Graham, showcasing fluid, fresh and soft silhouettes with a touch of urban, mostly in a sharp black and white colour palette and with a sporadic adding of tomato red, soft orange, pink, mint and burgundy. Philo continuously corroborates the well-known fact of a Céline woman, as always being different, eclectic, and unique, a free and individual spirit, and a true anti-conformist. She likes for instance tuck her blazer into leather pants or wearing socks with sandals in two different colours. Even though is more like a runway styling, I wouldn´t be surprised to see a C-woman in real life that way, after all each piece breaths individuality. Don’t ‘you think? Just mind those silk wisps at the end of trousers, crocheted embroidered tops, knotted dresses and coats, the part of a leather skirt used like a corset, the same effect made by parts of jacket that were stitched into another skirt, abstract Yves Klein blue figures prints on white dresses, or those boxy, studded coats, not to mention ladylike bag, oversized shoppers and rigid gusset bags. A nice play of strong contrasts, like between reality and fantasy, soft and strong, classic and contemporary, with art as a primordial ingredient. 

STRAY

The creative/design duo Lemaire-Linh continues with their mostly wide, oversized proportions and timeless day-elegance, but with some quite important changes shown at the end. If Christophe´s eponymous brand was known to be immune to fashion whims by literally avoiding trends and stay on its own, distinctive aesthetic, last few women´s-wear collections showcase some changes, especially evident in this one. The last part of this S/S 2017 collection was abundant of printed tops and dresses, demonstrating their following to the current street fashion obsession. So far I was really fond of every piece, from every collection and always asked myself how much this love and devotion will last. Now I´ve got the answer. Till this collection and thankfully changed just for the women´s-wear, because the men´s one is continuing to go to the same Christophe Lemaire direction. The one that is built with timeless, simple, elegant and comfortable pieces that you can each season add few garments to refresh this way your wardrobe. The one I felt in love from the first moment I saw. Let´s hope that this was just a little "faux pas". Have hopes for winter.

WALKING

This fashion video is a sort of behind-the-scenes one resembling the three days shooting in Manhattan made by Peter Lindbergh for the entire October 2016 issue of Vogue Italia, titled "Walking". Peter dedicated it to the late magazine´s editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani.

SOFTENED AND CONE-SHAPED

The sound of Neil Young´s 1970 song "After the Goldrush" accompanied Rick Owens S/S 2017 menswear collection that had been smoothed of the usual hard edges. Overall the clothes are gentler, softer-looking, regardless their complicated draping and exaggerated volumes. Through different techniques of his well-known draping, Owens always proposes new silhouettes, this time more cone-shaped, made of crisp, washed silk gazars and sturdy industrial cottons in a colour palette of off-white, rust, gold and black. There are his typical pyramid-shaped pants discreetly revealing the new sock-like sneakers, as a latest collaboration made with Adidas, and worn under cropped jackets with lengthened sleeves or really tiny ribcage-length bomber and leather jackets, making this way an effect of "lifting the torso", not to mention T-shirts and tops slung and twisted around the body and the shiny embroideries with radiant lines on loose black robes and sculpted tuxedo jackets.