Geometric, classy and inspired by the
double folding locks, this is Verrou, a new-born at Hermès.
Showing posts with label Hermès. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hermès. Show all posts
FIRST OFFICIAL
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski used the brand´s famous scarves patterns from the archive and transformed them into prints for silk shirts and dresses that are paired with high-waisted trousers, cashmere-knitted pieces, straight skirts with a split and tweed suits. The "commercially looking" yellow summer parka turns into pure lux due the use of double-face cashmere, while the leather is worked into open-work surfaces.
Normally the (not so anymore) hidden meaning of pre-collection is in their commercial good effort, as they are normally the money-maker for the brand. Not that Hermès one, that is actually their debut one in terms of official showcase, isn´t that way sell-able, but definitely much, much less accessible to a larger customer circle, compared to other high-end brands. They even don´t make a big differences in terms of garments design between regular show-collections and pre-collections, because normally the show- pieces take care of the image of each house, while the in-between are the sellable ones. Whatever comes from Hermès is a silent-lux piece, made impeccable and has that casual easy, but with a quite higher price-tag on. Why? It´s a part of their image-tactic, made possible mostly thankfully to their leather bags and accessories. Just mind their "Kelly and "Birkin", how many people craves after them and how much they are still a status-symbol for many, then you will get the answer.
HARNAIS
Hermès is offering to us another timeless
beauty. This gorgeous bag was introduced for the brand´s Fall/Winter 2015 collection and made its second return for their Fall/Winter 2016 collection.
The shape of the bag got inspired from a form of a saddle and features an
adjustable shoulder strap, it has a lambskin interior and two flat pockets.
REFINED TASTE
We cannot accentuate every time the fact that Hermès clothes and not only have that superior quality, in terms of material and execution and that this richness is always calm, never loud or garish and “packed” in that timeless, money- worth aura. Their aesthetic is very clean-shaped, almost monastic and enriched here and there with some details, like stitches or embroidery or house typical-prints. Brand´s creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski follows those roles. The big part of F/W 2016/2017 collection was accentuated on lightness with robe-like, loose silhouettes, composed by maxi cardigans with matching pullovers and wide-leg cropped trousers, pleated skirts, boxy-coats and pleated dresses, except the opening looks, that looked a bit more rigid with the quilted effect that was exquisitely made by embroidered stitching on pleated dresses, pants and coats. A true galore of mostly monochrome looks in colours like cream, camel, midnight blue or burgundy and made from a super-quality cashmere, wools, silk, shearling, jersey, satin and butter-soft nappa leather. I personally still miss Christophe Lemaire´s aesthetic in this French-lux house, but frankly Nadège is getting better and better from collection to collection.
NOVELTIES #49
HERMÈS ready-to-wear update
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Hermès has produced pre-collections since 2004 but chosen not to show them to the press, until this summer, when the French luxury brand will have its first-ever pre-collection presentation, set to take place at the soon-to-be unveiled location in Paris on July 3, a day when city´s haute couture week starts. The presentation will have an intimate-approach with less than 100 people invited, press, top clients and family included and will feature pre-spring 2016 looks designed by women’s ready-to-wear artistic director Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski.
other novelties...
CHERCHE MIDI
When it comes for bags I think I grown up,
meaning that there´s not a "season-bag money spending thing" anymore,
but a careful "listen to your heart and think deeply-twice"
situation. In that way one bag suits many looks, lasts and gets older with you,
becoming "personalized" - yes, she reveals your lifestyle (wink). If
I would look up for a bag in the last period and (a big) if I would have enough
money to spend (starving for fashion is so high-school thing), well, one of my
biggest contenders for a buy would definitely be this piece of art from Hermès.
This bag is big enough to carry your
daily essentials (underline the world essential, so excluded a second outfit, a
sos-pair of shoes, half of your beauty-home-storage and a third of pharmacy),
classic, but different at the same time, rich, but not pretentious. Yes, my
dear "Cherche Midi", you would be mine, but for now an occasional
"dream-thing".
MODERN ESSENTIALS
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski in her second season at the French luxury house redefined a new concept of luxury, mixing sporty elements with basic, must-to have in every wardrobe silhouettes made from materials of the highest quality. Everything looks so essential, primordial and alluring, regardless if the material is leather, silk, cashmere or cotton translated in garments like overcoats, tailored jackets, cropped tops, wide trousers and pleated skirts. And when the talk is about essential-pieces, they are, why not say it frankly, they must be comfortable too. Actually beside the shape and the high quality of the material, the comfort is always a must in these pieces and Nadège reached this in the collection, helped also by sneakers, paired with many outfits during the fashion show.
NOVELTIES #34
UNIQLO AND LEMAIRE second act
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All Lemaire and/or less is more and/or essentialist lovers, here comes a great news! If you were among (many, believe me…me inclusive) those, who haven´t “reach out” for all of yours favourite, on-wish-list products or even none of them, due the fact that in the uniqlo shops went literally sold out in few hours and in the web-shop you can find only some rare “exemplars”…there´s a second chance! I am not talking about the re-stock of the collection, which can also happen; who knows? I am talking about that Uniqlo confirmed the second collection in collaboration with Lemaire . Spring 2016, here we come!
other novelties...
NOVELTIES #33
HERMÈS x apple watch
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It´s a firs anniversary, so which could be the best way to celebrate if not partnering with the iconic French luxury house Hermès. The watch, which will go on sale Oct. 5, will marry bands made in Hermès’ signature leather with a specially designed user interface. The price range? From $1,100 to $1,500
other novelties...
NOVELTIES #27
ALEXANDER WANG´s departure from balenciaga confirmed
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After weeks of rumours and speculations, it´s now official and confirmed by the fashion house last Friday: "Balenciaga and Alexander Wang announce their joint decision not to renew their contract beyond its initial term. Since 2012, Alexander Wang has stood at the creative helm of the maison and has been instrumental in the pursuit of its development. With his proven talent and his irreverent, modern vision of design, Alexander Wang has brought a new impetus to the brand. Balenciaga and Kering would like to thank Alexander Wang for his accomplishments and wish him the very best with his eponymous brand as well as all his future endeavours."
Alexander Wang added: "It’s been an incredible experience to work with a couture house in Paris. I am honoured to have had the opportunity to work for this historical maison. I would like to thank the brilliant team at Balenciaga for their collaboration and for what we have accomplished together, and I am looking forward to taking my own brand to its next level of growth."As expected, the s/s 2016 Balenciaga collection, which is set to be shown on Oct. 2 during Paris Fashion Week, will be his last collection for the brand. A new creative director will be announced "in due course."
other novelties...
NOVELTIES #24
STEFANO PILATI leaves agnona
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Stefano Pilati is stepping down as a creative director of Agnona, so it will no longer design for the Zegna-owned Italian womenswear label. The S/S2016 collection that will be presented in September will be completed by the brand´s design team. Pilati on the other hand continues to be the head designer at Ermenegildo Zegna. Which are his real plans for the future; a possible eponymous brand?
other novelties...
CAUTIOUS
This is Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski debut collection as a new creative director for Hermès, after Christophe Lemaire left the brand. There is something I would definitely not do – the comparison. My deep love for Lemaire cannot objective her first work for the French fashion house. I would say mine, after seeing some more work from her. I could only say, collection apart, that she was a good, clever pick. A logical one. Just mind her work for The Row for example.
How I found her collection? Clean, a bit rigid, with quite a lot of references to Hermés classic elements, like leather and silk-scarf. There are lovely monochromatic total looks in soft suede and leather coats with details, like saddle-form big pockets or rounded stitches, to soften up a bit the rigid shape. Overall it´s nice and sellable, but I miss something. It´s a bit too safe for my taste. I didn´t certainly expect a revolution, but somehow she entered into the world of the famous “orange-box” luxury brand with slow, (too) carefully and measured steps. As I said, the time will be the judge and I already know that I will not be disappointed by her – maybe that was her trick, to bring firstly expected, to then surprise with unexpected?
TO LOAF-ER
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Something timeless (I bet you are already annoyed of me by using lately that world a lot). Something well-made. Something comfortable. Something elegant, but still casual. Something else than sneakers or sandals. Some good flats. Loafers.
/ photo courtesy of joanna mcclure /
NOVELTIES #13
DIOR AND I
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Just a reminder of what we talked about not long ago.In theaters from April 10th, the documentary, directed by Frédéric Tcheng, that is not only detailing the bumpy road to Raf Simons´s first couture collection (fall 2012) for Dior, but also the intimate relationship with the women of his atelier.
other novelties...
CHANEL chooses net-a-porter for online launch
after joan didion, joni mitchell, and neil young, QUINCY JONES is the latest style icon turned model
ISABEL MARANT talks high-waisted jeans and why she doesn’t have a muse
sibling, t.tautz shortlisted for BFC PRIZE
PHILIP TREACY on how to make runway-ruling hats
the truth about HANDBAGS
RAF SIMONS' photo album
MICHAEL KORS - the jet set juggernaut
the us just overtook china as the world’s best place for E-COMMERCE
HERMÈS is back on new bond street
VESTIAIRE D´HIVER
Valérie Mréjen, Paris born writer, visual artist and videographer, known for En ville (2011), Chamonix (2003) and Pork and Milk (2004), made a video with a sense of humour and poetic charm, an offbeat interpretation of the women's ready to wear collection Hermés F/W 2014/2015 collectiom by Christophe Lemaire.
LEMAIRE´S LAST HOMAGE TO HERMÈS
Who fitted better with the French house known that don´t like to be referred as a luxury label, better than Christophe Lemaire. Both are against seasonal trends and prefer to focus on construction, quality materials and the wearable factor; and the S/S 2015 collection is all about that. A hidden luxury translated into sophisticated and simple silhouettes in a colour palette of chalky whites, dark blues, and sand-dunes with an occasional touch of vivid ochre – the house famous colour. From a standout stripe coat, made from woven leather and silk, to exotic leathers, like a crocodile bermuda-shorts or the cardigans made from water snakeskin; all elegantly balanced with cotton, silk and cashmere seen in sweaters, tunic dresses, jackets and light coats. Everything is quite, elegant, without any ostentation; as was his leaving from Hermès. He´ll be missed.
SILK ROAD
Two days ago I reported of ChristopheLemaire´s departure from Hermès…so it´s a perfect time to look his penultimate
womenswear collection for the French luxury house. For the F/W 2014/2015
Lemaire perfectly mixed the aesthetic codes of Hermès with his own style. The collection
is a sort of an imaginary journey in the ancient East-West trading route, known
also as a “Silk Road”. His woman is mysterious, exotic, independent, but
without losing her elegance and intellectual touch. We saw nearly-radical
minimalism, made of most luxurious
materials, such as crocodile skin, cashmere, silk, woollen cloth, wool,
leather, astrakhan, mink and shearling, Oversize coats, suits and cabans,
straight A-line skirts, streamlined dresses with a label signature draping and
patterns, men style accessories such as loafers with tassels or belts, boxy
bags and leather bracelets.. Nothing is made by a chance. Everything is
measured, precise and meticulously made.
CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE LEFT HERMÈS
After four years as an artistic director at Hermès, Christopher Lemaire left the French luxury fashion house. The designer, who took the helm in the 2010 from Jean Paul Gaultier´s departure, will present his final womenswear collection for Hermès during the upcoming S/S 2015 Paris Fashion Week season in October.
"Working for Hermès has been a great pleasure: a profoundly enriching experience on both a human and professional level," Lemaire said today. "I am proud of what we have built together. My own label is growing in an important way and I now really want and need to dedicate myself to it fully.", was his statement.
"I am very grateful to Christophe for the passion with which he has addressed and enriched the expression of our house in women's ready-to-wear," Axel Dumas, Hermès CEO, added. "Under his artistic direction the métier has renewed its aesthetic and produced very satisfactory financial results. I wish him the greatest success with his own label which is so close to his heart".
Now I do not know if to be sad, because as Axel Dumas also said, Christophe helped the famous saddler and leather luxury goods brand to define the ready-to-wear collection with an elegant and rich in a not loud way aesthetic. Or on the other hand very happy, because now he can be 100% focused into his marvellous eponymous brand.
/ Photo by Paul Wetherell /
/ Photo by Paul Wetherell /
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