This is Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski debut collection as a new creative director for Hermès, after Christophe Lemaire left the brand. There is something I would definitely not do – the comparison. My deep love for Lemaire cannot objective her first work for the French fashion house. I would say mine, after seeing some more work from her. I could only say, collection apart, that she was a good, clever pick. A logical one. Just mind her work for The Row for example.
How I found her collection? Clean, a bit rigid, with quite a lot of references to Hermés classic elements, like leather and silk-scarf. There are lovely monochromatic total looks in soft suede and leather coats with details, like saddle-form big pockets or rounded stitches, to soften up a bit the rigid shape. Overall it´s nice and sellable, but I miss something. It´s a bit too safe for my taste. I didn´t certainly expect a revolution, but somehow she entered into the world of the famous “orange-box” luxury brand with slow, (too) carefully and measured steps. As I said, the time will be the judge and I already know that I will not be disappointed by her – maybe that was her trick, to bring firstly expected, to then surprise with unexpected?

/ original images courtesy of hermès, except the main original image courtesy of lloyd evans /

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