After the winter 2014/2015 collection I thought Marni could not wow-me at the same level again; but today I discovered that I was pleasantly wrong. Their S/S 2015 collection is really to die for. A perfect mix of Japanese style with trademarks of this Italian fashion house, like embellishments, patchwork and lots of prints. Instead of celebrating the brand´s 20th anniversary, with revisiting all thirty nine past seasons, Consuelo Castiglioni decided to move on. That´s the other thing that made me to love this brand even more. The collection started with black and white tones that progressed into really radiant colours and florals. Shirts with extra-long sleeves, asymmetric wrap skirts, kimono-like dresses and A-line skirts with ruffles tied with judo belts are in “simple” plain colours in the first part, to continue with vivid colours and flower embroideries, appliques in the second one. Garments are made from the raw cotton and leather combined with silk, chiffon and cashmere. Accessories? They perfectly rounded up with the theme of the collection; flat flip flops, platform shoes with double straps, Japanese-inspired platform shoes with ribbons woven around the ankles, sandals with heel sculpture, geometric jewellery made of resin and wood, patchwork leather bag and two-tone leather bags with rigid handle. My wish list is back again.
photographer sybille walter
natural linen jacket created by anne-marie beretta s/s 1985
Fashion Designer Anne Marie Beretta at the age of 20 and was encouraged by Roger Bauer at Jacques Griffe to pursue a career in fashion. In the 50's, she worked for Antonio Castillo, designing for the theatre in her spare time. She also worked for Jacques Esterel for some time. In 1965, she joined manufacturer Pierre d'Alby and launched a highly successful line of brown linen garments. She then went on to work for Georges Edelman, Ramosport - who manufactured her rainwear line in the 80's - and thereafter for Bercher.In 1974, after about 20 years in training, Anne-Marie Beretta established her own ready-to-wear label. She has a serious sombre style and sees her clothes as mobile sculptures. She also designs ski-wear. Max Mara's collections of stylishly tailored suits were designed by Anne-Marie Beretta. And yes, the famous 101801 coat is her design too (dated 1981); and Max Mara still sell that model.
Anne-Marie´s trademark is a play on proportions, from wide collared coats to mid-calf length trousers and asymmetrical lines.
It was all about ease on everything with tribal-inspired elements on Sportmax S/S 2015 collection. From collarless jute coat, cropped top and skirt to a checked, 50´s-style jacket over the pencil skirt, elongated blazers , black and white print on few summer shirt dresses and the black and white gingham motif on others (really popular this season). The relaxed feeling was everywhere and details like unfinished hemlines or garments featuring the knot around the waist raised it on a higher level. Yes, shoes included - clogs like sandals. Everything was on the way to succeed if there was not the “but” thing. Phoebe Philo´s influence was too much present in this collection; all knots placed in the waistline of the models and all frayed seams screamed Céline´s F/W 2014/2015 collection. The fresh take on the trend is not anymore fresh, but something already seen before.