The judges Delphine Arnault, Nicolas
Ghesquière, Karl Lagerfeld, Phoebe Philo, Raf Simons, Riccardo Tisci, Marc
Jacobs, Jonathan Anderson, Carol Lim, Humberto Leon, Jean-Paul Claverie, and
Pierre-Yves Roussel, decided. Among almost a thousand applicants from all over
the world and in the final phase among 7 finalist, including Arthur Arbesser, Craig
Green, Vetments, Faustine Steinmetz,
Jacquemus and Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh, the
Portugese design duo Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, best known as
Marques´Almeida, won the second annual LVMH. Beside the 300.000 Eur, the prize
consist also from a year´s mentorship from executives in the world´s largest
luxury company. There was also a special jury prize,
consisted of 150.000 and as well the
coaching year, won by Simon Porte Jacquemus.
It happened in the (not so long) past with Céline and lately with Carven and Delpozo. At the end I guess someone will think or take it as a trend. But is not. What are we talking about? To revive a brand or to wake it up from the long-sleep, to say it in a more romantic way. That happened also with the Slovakian brand Nehera. The brand´s history starts in the first half of the 20th century, when the former designer and founder, Jan Nehera, made in the mid 30´s from it a renowed fashion house with over 130 fashion stores throughout Europe, USA, Russia, North and South Afrika. Everything didn´t last long. The reason was the second World War, that halted the business.
In 2014, after 70 years of silence, the eastern beauty was brought back to life under the creative helm of Samuel Drira. Anyone that knows the aethethic of the French stylist, creative consultant and founder-editor of the Parisian magazine Encens, knows in which direction is and will take the brand. It´s Drira´s credit (as a creative consultant) for the beginning and for my opinion the best Damir Doma era ever. On the list are also the rebirth of ChristopheLemaire and Hermès, not forget to mention The Row. If you make a line and sum all images of the mentioned brands, you´ve got nearly a common aesthethic – the 80´s to 90´s, Japanese-influenced.
Nehera´s first official collection, the S/S 2015 one, is titled “Black Canvas”. What a best way to explain, how they needed to invent everything from the scratch. Literally they needed to consider how the new “basic” should look like. If we take for an example a white shirt – what a white shirt really is? Its point? How should be the collar, eventually the pocket and what most important is, the cut? The result are the boxy-pleated shirts, elongated jackets, voluminous pants and ankle-length ones and shirt-dresses. Smart, daily and well-made pieces, for an eclectic, practical and reflective woman, that loves comfort, long-lasting pieces and elegancy.