Showing posts with label People. Show all posts
Showing posts with label People. Show all posts

WHEN EARTH MET VISION: THE MIRÓ-ARTIGAS COLLABORATION

 




Fire transforms what patience prepares. In the mountainous village of Gallifa, thirty kilometres north of Barcelona, this ancient principle found its modern expression in the hands of two artists who refused the boundary between potter and painter. Joan Miró and Josep Llorens Artigas created together what neither could have conceived alone: a body of work where clay became cosmos, where the wheel's rotation traced the same orbit as celestial bodies. 

Their paths crossed first in the Barcelona of their youth, where both attended the Cercle Artístic de Sant Lluc and studied under Francesc Galí. They founded the Agrupació Courbet together, sharing the rebellious energy of young artists determined to escape family expectations. Artigas, born in 1892, and Miró, following a year later in 1893, both chose art against the current of familial will, choosing the studio over the counting house, the kiln over respectability. 

Between their youth and their maturity lay decades of separate journeys. Artigas travelled to Paris, where he established his studio on rue Blomet in 1924, where he moved among Marquet, Picasso, Buñuel, and Braque, where his research at the Sorbonne into Egyptian pottery and blue glazes would shape everything that followed. The Spanish Civil War forced his return to Barcelona in 1936, and there he taught ceramics at the Escuela Massana while the world burned around him. 

Miró's path traced a different arc through those same decades. In 1920, he made his first journey to Paris, meeting Picasso, taking a studio at 45 rue Blomet, the same building where André Masson worked, the same address where their futures would intertwine. Throughout the 1920s, he alternated winters in Paris with summers at his family's farm in Montroig, Tarragona, where his symbolic language deepened. The Farm, finished in 1921, captured everything one felt about Spain,n whether present or absent—Ernest Hemingway would later say this, purchasing the painting for himself. By 192,4 Miró had joined the Surrealists, though he maintained his individual creative freedom, developing what he called peinture-poésie, painting-poetry, where biomorphic forms and words floated above blue expanses. 

"I CAN’T CHANGE THE WORLD, BUT MAYBE I CAN CHANGE THE IDEA OF BEAUTY"


 

Yohji Yamamoto speaks the way he designs, with precision, with pauses, with an undertone of defiance. At eighty, his words carry the calm gravity of someone who has walked through anger, chance, and creation, and returned with nothing to prove. 
For System, Tim Blanks sits across from the legendary designer in a filmed conversation that unfolds like an intimate meditation. Yamamoto reflects on the fury that shaped his youth, on the fate that led him from law to fabric, and on the enduring tension between Tokyo and Paris, two cities that taught him how to listen to silence. 

GIORGIO ARMANI




In Milan, there existed a building that breathed differently from the rest of the city. On Via Bergognone, where once Nestlé manufactured sweetness for the masses, Giorgio Armani constructed something far more elusive: a temple to the unspoken. Each morning, before Milan awakened to its cacophony of ambition, he would arrive, a figure moving through grey light with the precision of ritual, the measured pace of prayer made manifest in flesh. 

This was never mere punctuality but a sacrament. In a world that mistakes volume for authority, Armani discovered that power whispers its most devastating truths. His footsteps fell neither hurried nor leisurely but calibrated, as though even the rhythm of his walking had been subjected to the same ruthless editing that transformed fabric into philosophy. 

The studio itself defied every cliché of creative chaos. No romantic disorder of genius scattered across surfaces, no theatrical gestures toward inspiration. Music, when present, existed at the threshold of hearing. Fabrics were arranged with surgical precision. A sketch emerged not from the violence of sudden revelation but through the patient accumulation of considered lines, each mark placed with the deliberation of an architect designing eternity. He rarely raised his voice, not from timidity but from understanding that whispers travel further than shouts when they carry the weight of certainty. 

A LINE DRAWN IN SILVER: THE LEGACY OF SYLVIA STAVE

 

           image courtesy ©J Lohmann gallery



Between the promise of modernity and the rituals of the home, Sylvia Stave (1908–1994) traced a line that still gleams. A designer of rare vision, she saw the future not as something to shout into, but as something to shape, quietly, decisively, into form. 

At just twenty-one, she became artistic director of C.G. Hallberg in Stockholm, where she designed pieces that distilled the essentials: cocktail shakers wrapped in rattan, shallow pewter bowls with the weight of water, vessels and trays whose proportions felt inevitable. 
Her materials, silver plate, alpacca, pewter, were unpretentious but alive, catching light like morning frost. Stave’s forms belonged to the language of Scandinavian functionalism, yet she infused them with her own lyric: rounded edges where you expected corners, softness where you expected severity. Her work made the rituals of the table and bar feel modern but also human, less a statement than a quiet choreography. 

LEIGH BOWERY: THE ART OF BECOMING




Some figures in fashion and art are influential. Others are inescapable, their presence lingering long after their physical form has vanished. Leigh Bowery was the latter, a walking rupture in reality, a self-made deity of excess, distortion, and theatrical provocation. More than a designer, more than a performer, he was his own creation, a living testament to the idea that identity is not inherited but invented, ripped apart, and reconstructed at will.

Bowery did not merely dress; he sculpted himself anew each day, his body a fluid, ever-morphing canvas. He was grotesque, mesmerising, intimidating, and utterly irresistible. In an era where London’s underground culture pulsed with raw creative energy, he stood at its centre, not as an observer, but as a force of nature. His presence challenged the boundaries between fashion, performance, and fine art, proving that style could be a weapon, a philosophy, and a work of art all at once.


Milko Šparemblek: The Alchemist of Movement

 



In the vast constellation of dance, some stars burn brightly for a moment, and then there are those whose light continues to glow, shaping the very contours of the art form. Milko Šparemblek belongs to the latter—a luminary whose choreography did not merely entertain but provoked, questioned, and redefined. His was a career sculpted by intellect and instinct, a seamless confluence of tradition and revolution, discipline and abandon.

To speak of Šparemblek is to speak of a man who understood dance as a language of the soul, where every gesture carried the weight of history, the urgency of the present, and the whispers of the future. Born in 1928, in Prevalje, Slovenija, his early years in Croatia provided the foundation for a lifelong dialogue between heritage and reinvention. But it was in Paris, in the avant-garde crucible of post-war Europe, that his artistry was truly forged.


FASHION NEUROSIS


 


In case you may not have heard about this podcast by Bella Freud yet, or you did but weren´t able to didn´t want to listen to it yet, I warmly recommend it to you. What is it about? Bella invites her guests,  from fashion icons, footballers, rock stars, and writers, you name it,  to lie on the couch and discuss the relationship between fashion, love, identity, culture, anxiety, and politics. They reveal their insights, faux pas, turn-ons, and turn-offs about why we wear what we wear.


MASTERCLASS IN CREATIVITY AT MAISON MARGIELA




Following a tête-à-tête interview with John Galliano, Creative Director of Maison Margiela, and Anders Christian Madsen, journalist and collaborator of Margiela, here is the second part, where System magazine invited fashion design students from leading European schools (L'Institut Français de la Mode in Paris, La Cambre Modes in Brussels, Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and of course Galliano’s alma mater Central Saint Martins in London) to HQ of Maison Margiela in Paris for a masterclass with Galliano. 

"I HAD THE BLESSING OF MARTIN MARGIELA"




"...and psychologically I felt I was doing the right thing for the house."

This year marks the tenth anniversary of John Galliano leading Maison Margiela. His return to signature theatricality at an Artisanal show in Paris in January set the stage for a successful year, followed by a documentary release and high-profile collaborations. 

LADY DIANA COOPER

 

     ©United States Library of Congress's Prints and Photographs division



Who is this woman who was sailing the Adriatic with the Prince of Wales and Wallis Warfield Simpson and was loved by some of its most prominent men, from Prime Minister Asquith to the great bass Chaliapin and the newspaper magnate Lord Beaver Brook? Cecil Beaton called her ''furiously beautiful'', while Churchill considered her ''of great worth in this sad world.''. 

RICK ANSWERS




i-D approached renowned fashion designer Rick Owens to respond to a variety of unusual and fascinating questions submitted by his friends, family, and colleagues, like Sissy Misfit, Kris Van Assche, Matt Lambert, Tommy Cash, Stephen Jones, Gwendoline Christie, Bruce LaBruce, and others.

WOLFGANG TILLMANS OPENS UP





In this something more than hour and a half interview, the German fine-artist and Tate Turner prize winner, but also activist and musician Wolfgang Tillmans discuss with Lou Stoppard for the SHOWstudio’s "In Camera" series* about art and photography, his experiences living in London and Berlin, but also about the impact HIV has had on his life and how affected his work.


EL RACÓ





Catalan ceramist and artists Joan Gardy-Artigas share with us some reflections on his life and really prolific career that includes some of the leading artists of the 20th century, from Miró and Picasso to Chagall and Giacometti.

I FEEL MORE FREE AND OPEN





This was originally filmed like a month ago featuring John Galliano who joined BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks on the VOICES stage, so if there was "I missed it" thing, this is a perfect time to watch it or maybe even re-see it. We liberally can say that this was one of more inspiring things from 2016, regardless if you are a fan or not of his work at MaisonMargiela. Talking about this fashion institution, Galliano not only discussed during this interview his role as a creative director and how/why he feels much more free and open in this his new role, but also he admitted that he is yet to even hit his trade.  

WHAT VICTORIA CARRIES?





Gosh, what a dubious question/title is that? Of course in the bag, relax breathe. You think a tons of stuff I suppose, but after you see a size of the bag, you will get disappointed. She carries her essentials (when maybe somebody else carries the extras). Nosy? Just a little bit, because we Love Vic! Ok, Ok, a lot and its Saturday, it´s raining outside, so a good (at least) short chill with a glass of red (or coffee, as you prefer) and Vic´s "showcase" is more than welcome. 

BOF VOICES - COACH CEO VICTOR LUIS





How the political crises, mass shooting and terrorist attacks that are expanding all over the world, especially in Europe lately, didn´t not impact on profit and earnings of the brand Coach, especially compared with other brands, actually it has marked a growth for the first time in years, with double-digit growth in Europe and mainland China. Is the reason of success the management skills of the brand´s CEO Victor Luis or is something else? BoF´s Imran Amed talked with him about that and more.

INSIDE YOHJI YAMAMOTO´S FASHION PHILOSOPHY





It´s rare thing this one, a kind of exception, but definitely a par excellence that don´t happen twice. Yohji Yamamoto is known for being reserved and that rarely agree on doing interviews, especially filmed ones. He discussed with Imran Amed highs and lows, and wisdom, from a career spanning more than 40 years.

BOF VOICES - CLOSE ENCOUNTERS IN SYDNEY





It´s Saturday, so a weekend, so a possible reason/way to take some time for yourself, maybe while sipping your later-morning coffee or instead to leaf through your favourite magazine, take some (quite long) moment (looong coffee or tea, but you deserve it) and listen to Australians who became successful in the fashion business...their opinions, thoughts and what we like the most, suggestions around the main topic that is: "How can brands from distant markets break into the global marketplace?".

I DON´T LIKE TO SEE MYSELF AS A FASHION DESIGNER, BECAUSE I DON´T FOLLOW FASHION





I actually don´t know well Aleksandra, but after few rare occasions talking to her one on one and by talking I mean just some lines, I got that impact and feeling like knowing her for ages. And believe me, this interview only confirms me this. “How is this possible”, are you probably asking now? Passing years and getting older, you´ve become “filled” with experiences that life brings and all of them help you, especially when it comes to perception of new people you meet through your life journey. What sort of it I got about her? As an honest, straightforward, open, creative, spontaneous and buddy-type of a person with that sparkle “joire de vivre” in the eyes that only children have. But there´s much, much more, that I discovered throughout this interview. The one that was like writing a book, she said at the end. And sure it was. Intense and funny, due the fact she had a smile on her face even when the talk turned into more “serious” theme. Her “in the first second impact” boyish-like look is a second later "thrown" in the shadow by her very maternal and sensitive side, regardless the fact that she is a mother of three kids.  The time right after the birth of each of them, made her to change work-directions and to experience new shades of design and creativity. After all she is not a “long-distance” (future) plans believer, but she prefers to excel oneself in the current, present ones and then to get that surprise-part of the future.  This is also her brand aleksandrabrlan; unpredictable, spontaneous, comfortable and honest.

HEDI SPEAKS




And when he does, it becomes a true event. Who follows Hedi Slimane, knows that the designer was always and still is really reserved and hardly ever speaks a word to the press. This time the lucky ones were from the Yahoo Style, whom the photographer and Saint Laurent creative director among other opened about his memories of Yves and his personal faith in a veryexclusive interview