Showing posts with label John Galliano. Show all posts
Showing posts with label John Galliano. Show all posts

LEIGH BOWERY: THE ART OF BECOMING




Some figures in fashion and art are influential. Others are inescapable, their presence lingering long after their physical form has vanished. Leigh Bowery was the latter, a walking rupture in reality, a self-made deity of excess, distortion, and theatrical provocation. More than a designer, more than a performer, he was his own creation, a living testament to the idea that identity is not inherited but invented, ripped apart, and reconstructed at will.

Bowery did not merely dress; he sculpted himself anew each day, his body a fluid, ever-morphing canvas. He was grotesque, mesmerising, intimidating, and utterly irresistible. In an era where London’s underground culture pulsed with raw creative energy, he stood at its centre, not as an observer, but as a force of nature. His presence challenged the boundaries between fashion, performance, and fine art, proving that style could be a weapon, a philosophy, and a work of art all at once.


MASTERCLASS IN CREATIVITY AT MAISON MARGIELA




Following a tête-à-tête interview with John Galliano, Creative Director of Maison Margiela, and Anders Christian Madsen, journalist and collaborator of Margiela, here is the second part, where System magazine invited fashion design students from leading European schools (L'Institut Français de la Mode in Paris, La Cambre Modes in Brussels, Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and of course Galliano’s alma mater Central Saint Martins in London) to HQ of Maison Margiela in Paris for a masterclass with Galliano. 

"I HAD THE BLESSING OF MARTIN MARGIELA"




"...and psychologically I felt I was doing the right thing for the house."

This year marks the tenth anniversary of John Galliano leading Maison Margiela. His return to signature theatricality at an Artisanal show in Paris in January set the stage for a successful year, followed by a documentary release and high-profile collaborations. 

CHRISTIAN DIOR HAUTE COUTURE S/S 1998


    image courtesy of ©Vogue
 


John Galliano is well-known for his extravagant designs and dramatic presentations. One of his most memorable showcases was the stunning fashion opera unveiling of the Christian Dior Spring 1998 haute couture collection. This remarkable event was inspired by, if not dedicated to Marchesa Casati, one of his muses, and her fascination with Sergei Diaghilev's Ballet Russe. The collection, held at the Palais Garnier Opera house in Paris, featured sculptural silhouettes, cinched waist shapes reminiscent of Dior's iconic New Look, lace sheaths, skirt suits, mink fur-trimmed opera coats, backless velvet hoop-skirt gowns in Art Nouveau prints, and rose-strewn picture hats.

I FEEL MORE FREE AND OPEN





This was originally filmed like a month ago featuring John Galliano who joined BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks on the VOICES stage, so if there was "I missed it" thing, this is a perfect time to watch it or maybe even re-see it. We liberally can say that this was one of more inspiring things from 2016, regardless if you are a fan or not of his work at MaisonMargiela. Talking about this fashion institution, Galliano not only discussed during this interview his role as a creative director and how/why he feels much more free and open in this his new role, but also he admitted that he is yet to even hit his trade.  

MOTHER BOARD


If some other new/fresh brands may appear as an avant-garde or revolutionary to younger generations, there are others, really few, where these brands, actually literally all designers (famous included) “take” here and there inspirations from, if not an ashamed-total-copy(cat). Elements like imperfect stitching, oversize proportions, deconstructed silhouettes and unusual material combining have the same common denominator - the major mother-influence-creative-board named Maison Margiela (especially the period when Martin was still around the house).  Even with Galliano´s arrival, Margiela codes are still there. Ok, sometimes maybe mixed with a bit too much Galliano’s typical decadent-rococo, especially in the womenswear collections, but overall they quite fit well together and from the beginning I wasn´t sure about the creative-marriage of these two. I don´t know how much Galliano is involved in the menswear collection, but there´s a lot of Margiela in it. The F/W 2016/2017 for example is a true-tribute to the house heritage; the nineties minimalism seen in soft tailoring combined with punk elements, such as slouchy- deconstructed knits and leather jackets, and rounded up with sportswear, like Lycra tops and leggings.

NOVELTIES #46




DRONE BOMB ME
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Is the title of the first music video released few days ago by musician Anohni, formerly known as Antony Hegarty. This unique project, that stars one and only Naomi Campbell, was directed by Nabil and art-directed by Riccardo Tisci.  

Tisci and Anohni met seven years ago and have a history of collaborations. The designer first heard "Drone Bomb Me" in his room at the Mercer Hotel, and he was instantly inspired to create the video concept. Tisci contributed to the whole video-image as well as the concept, so I guess there´s no need to ask what Naomi was wearing. Givenchy, of course.

"I wanted to pair vigorous content with a seductive sound. Each song is a treatise wrapped up like a Trojan horse”, Anohni told Vogue about her upcoming album "Hopelessness", which is scheduled to be released on May 6. 


other novelties...

NOVELTIES #45



CALVIN KLEIN summer 2016 ad campaign first look
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While other brands delivered far long before their summer 2016 ad campaigns, finding them in all magazines from January issues on, has Calvin Klein (finally) released a first "taste" of its summer campaign. Is it tactic or just a delay-thing? The effect of it, normally in terms of numbers, will tell. The (possibly) total black and white campaign, an ode to the 90´s, was photographed by James Hawkesworth, styled by Benjamin Bruno and features Sophie Rask, Frida Westerlund and Laura Sørensen


other novelties...

NOVELTIES #43



GRACE CODDINGTON to step down as creative director of american vogue 
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It was definitely the novelty of this past week, especially if we mind that she worked as a creative director for the US Vogue nearly 30 years and tête-à-tête with one and only Anna Wintour. The news may sound tragic for all Coddington-style lovers and supports, but believe me it´s not that dramatic. Take a look at the exclusive interview she made with BoF, where she revealed everything about it and even something more.


other novelties..

ALMOST MERGED



Not so long ago, actually two fashion seasons ago many of you*were sceptical about the merge of John Galliano and the fashion institution as Margiela is. I still don´t know why it was so hard to imagine a rococo with deconstruction under the same roof? We all forgot something here; both designers have something common. Something that makes them a good match, or if not even a perfect one and will not be strange that after few seasons the two will blend completely. Both have a huge sense of humour and the aspect of subversion. This 32-looks collection is a true-evidence of that. 50´s homage in the first half, with all roomy gowns and knee-length coats merged into the world of a modern Geisha, made of kimono jackets, narrow skirts and flaring gowns in the second part. The Ziggy Stardust make-up, the Victorian-lady meets the 50´s suburban housewife hair and the kitty-heeled shoes connected the whole show together (in details here). By the way, did anyone notice the guys?

NOVELTIES #37



no more RAF SIMONS at dior
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Raf Simons announced that is leaving Christian Dior, after three and a half years at the helm of the luxury French fashion house, citing personal reasons. This is not really a true novelty anymore; actually the news is already a part of public dominion, but still a must-report, due its importance and heaviness in the fashion industry.

He's departing Dior after he "reached this decision for personal reasons", said Dior in a statement.

"It is after careful and long consideration that I have decided to leave my position as creative director of Christian Dior's women's collection. It is a decision based entirely and equally on my desire to focus on other interests in my life, including my own brand, and the passions that drive me outside my work. Christian Dior is an extraordinary company, and it has been an immense privilege to write a few pages of this magnificent book." – said Raf.

A successor and all novelties in relation to Dior´s future are yet to be announced.


other novelties...

NOVELTIES #19




BJÖRK´s 360 degree virtual video
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Who can always surprises with innovation in at least both sides, music and visual. The one and only Björk. This time is about the video of her second single "Stonemilker", directed by Andrew Thomas Huang. A true panoramic, 360° video, that every viewer can choose and change not only the angle of view, but literally how to see it. 


other novelties...

BFC fashion trust winners 2015

and the GUCCI bride wore...valentino

with john galliano at the helm, MAISON MARGIELA sales increase 20 percent

TOMAS MAIER says brands need a clear personality

the PS1 perfume equivalent is coming: PROENZA SCHOULER signs a fragrance deal

the new VALENTINO campaign for pre fall

big changes at GALLIANO

URBAN DRAMA



MM6`s resort collection is playing with not a typical layering; we can call it unexpected. For example a tunic-length shirt, unbuttoned and worn on shoulders or in a corset-way (high), in one hand to discover the “what´s beneath of it” and on the other side to rise the drama level of the collection. This typical Galliano details, makes you feel (or confirm) that John´s fingers are literally present on every (tiny) piece in the Margiela house. Despite that, the brand is still maintaining its urban-coolness, with workwear-like pieces in voluminous proportions.  

THE VOGUE FESTIVAL 2015




The Vogue Festival returned this year and took place over the weekend of 25th and 26th April. The fourth consecutive year British Vogue has hosted the event, second time in partnership with Harrods. The doors are now already locked, but those fictional are still open; so if you didn´t have a chance to participate, nothing is lost 100%. Well the live experience of it is something unique, different, but videos that we selected from the event will at least a little replace what you´ve missed.

British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman talked with John Galliano and Christian Louboutin. The eccentric British designer and lately Masion Margiela´s creative director discussed about his comeback, haute couture and his work at MM, while the famous French shoe maker unveiled us his adventurous childhood, his first introduction into design and much more. The last, but never the least video that we picked is with Jean-Paul Gaultier, celebrated by the model and his long-time friend Erin O´Connor.

Take time, seat comfortably and simply enjoy.

NOVELTIES #07



RÓISÍN is back!
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After eight years (2007´s album Overpowered) is she releasing a new album, “Hairless toys”. Actually (to be specific) last year she released an EP, “Mi Senti”, made with her partner, Sebastiano Properzi and containing Italian covers, sung in Italian.
Róisín describes the new album as “the dark disco of European house music, Casablanca Records and Grace Jones, while seamlessly taking in the freedom and organic spirit of jazz, country and gospel”.
Listen to the first single below, “Gone Fishing”, produced by her longtime musical director Eddie Stevens. The album will be released on 11th May, but you can preorder your (signed) copy here


other novelties...

suzy menkes remembering LOUISE WILSON

JOHN GALLIANO reflects on his new role helming maison martin margiela

CHRISTOPHER KANE opens inaugural store in london's mayfair

CFDA AWARDS increase nominees for wmenswear, menswear, accessories designer categories

LVMH reveals designer 26 shortlist for prestigious prize

FABIO PIRAS steps into louise wilson’s shoes

TOM FORD is planning his second Hollywood film

the creative class - DAVID JAMES, Art Director

NOVELTIES #02



BOF BREAKFAST CLUB   discussing galliano´s return and the future of gucci
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Imran Amed is joined by creative consultant Mimma Viglezio, fashion historian and BoF Columnist Colin McDowell and Paula Reed, creative director of MyTheresa.com to discussing about the return of John Galliano to the fashion scene with his first, debut collection for Maison Margiela in London, if the collection was a hit or a miss, and what it means for the future of the brand and it’s new designer. They also talked about the future of Gucci where the creative director Frida Giannini made an early exit from the brand, following her partner and former Gucci chief executive Patrizio di Marco, who exited earlier this month. They made an opinion on questions llike "What can we expect from Gucci now?" and "Which designer could take over?".

other novelties...

everything you need to know about PITTI UOMO and MILAN FASHION WEEK

EDUN’s Ali Hewson and Danielle Sherman Talk Ethical Fashion

Rodolfo Paglialunga to debut first men's collection for JIL SANDER

a studio visit with artist TAL R in copenhagen

the CFDA debuts a remodeled fashion calendar

MANOLO BLAHNIK first-ever london collections men presentation

WELCOME BACK JOHN!


Where to start? Hmm..there´s kind an embarrass when you must to write or try to about two master names of fashion under the same project. I think I will leave the images to speak on their own, with an only note, that this Haute Couture collection (artisanal) for Maison Margiela (yes, there´s a name change too…why YSL to SL and not MMM to MM? so welcome!) by one and only John Galliano was just a warm starter of what we can expect in the future from this collaboration and also a way more enough to un-doubt all possible doubters. So, enjoy…

FASHION NEWS / IT´S OFFICIAL: CHRISTIAN DIOR HAS FIRED JOHN GALLIANO




























“In light of the deeply offensive statements and conduct by John Galliano in a video made public yesterday, Christian Dior has commenced termination proceedings against him.” - Dior's official statement.

“I condemn most firmly the statements made by John Galliano which are a total contradiction with the essential values that have always been defended by the House of Christian Dior.” -Sidney Toledano, Dior’s President & CEO.

John Galliano Men's RTW Fall 2010 / PFW-Day02

Sherlock Holmes, a learned gentleman by day and an opium-smoking martial artist by night, propelled Galliano’s narrative, beginning with classic Holmes in hunting garb and grand outerwear reworked
in new materials, including clear PVC and technical nylon.

Edwardian bankers followed in absolute sartorial splendor: double-breasted suits, starched white shirts and razor-sharp riding coats.

Then corsets were added, a nod to the renowned dandy Bunny Rogers. In the next chapter, starring Muay Thai fighters in bright satin and leather, Galliano’s love of embellishment flowered into embroideries of dragons and tigers.

The Asian theme continued with an overall black-lacquered look for evening. Once again, Galliano delivered a thrilling spectacle. This one happened to cost a fortune in lighting, fog machines and pillars of fire. Scorching.









































© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni