Showing posts with label F/W 2016/2017. Show all posts
Showing posts with label F/W 2016/2017. Show all posts

CELEBRATIVE SIR MOVRIN




When there´s a time, as it is lately, that big fashion houses and designer names are influenced by the new ones in as much as to literally "borrow" their ideas and propose them on their catwalk, when even the street-style, in last few seasons become a sort of pea-cocking one, is under that massive influence instead to make an own, personal and individual (mind that word people!) fashion statement, well, I fastly become hungry of London and its fashion week. Well, to be frank, when the hunger is about pure talent, there are only shows limited to fashion schools that can feed me, and CSM is definitely THE ONE! Friday 17th was marked by the fashion presentation at the talent-mecca, the one that press, head-hunters, press, buyers, stylists, photographers, educators and every fashion student in the world looks to. 16 out of 30 from the MA class 2017 were picked to showcase their skills and at the end there were two winners of the Creative Award presented with L’Oréal. But which are criteria that fulfil our expectations? Which are the factors that showcase in an evident way who is better than other? What makes that designer better? It isn´t at the end a matter of an individual, subjectively-oriented taste? Stefan Cooke with his inspiring, modern mosaic and trompe l´oeil menswear collection and his opposing-part Gabriele Skucas with her minimal and traditional approach, were great, but not my favourite ones. There were other that I like too, like Li Gong´s tailoring or Robert Wallace´s pants, but I prefer the most Peter Movrin´s colour bomb-collection, a great mixture of contrasts, where classy gets hand by hand with bold, simplicity with complexity, elegance with eccentric, in a nice play with unconventional and rigid materials such as paper and foil, turned into something almost ethereal and fragile, like a flower-figure. True showpieces in a real sense of the world, perfectly balanced between too-much and too-less. If someone had a chance (if not, now you have) to follow the work of this talented designer, will quickly realize that his design, marked by traditional and modern approach, is never predictable, always different and inspiring, but always very Peter Movrin.

MEDICINE



the row leather pouch bag in tan or in khaki with jade closure
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SHEARLING STOLE



balenciaga shearling stole in black or white
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DESTROYED



raf simons oversize sweater in white or yellow
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CAMPER + ECKHAUS LATTA





The Eckhaus Latta duo, known for their deconstructed and avant-garde design, but at the same time really easy to wear, is the latest young talent to collaborate with Camper. Inspired by the block-heeled boot and by the athletic sock, the result is a knitted shoe with an unconventional aesthetic, available in grey, mustard and off-white. For this project the duo also produced this video entirely filmed in Mallorca that features actress/model Hari Nef.

Y/PROJECT F/W 2016/2017 CLOSE-UP





Guess what? We can get enough of this Y/Project´s collection. Take a special, close-up, sort-of backstage look in this video directed by Grégoire Dye.

NEHERA F/W 2016/2017 AD CAMPAIGN



photographer evelyn benčičová
creative direction by evelyn benčičová, cina marcinková and  shimona zdút
photographer assistens marek wurfl and peter gáll
stylist cina marcinková
muah matrina petáková
models sophia k, natalia s and linda n
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Timeless, silent luxury, eclectic, comfortable, practical, functional and indivdual. This is Nehera.

TO MIND - BEAUFILLE



Are you into sophistication, but still want some drama from your clothes? Well, then you definitely should "meet" the Canadian-sister duo behind the label Beaufille. This "handsome girl", who was founded in 2013 by Parris and Chloé Gordon, is inspired by contrasts like masculine and feminine or hard and soft, consequently translated into elegant pieces with modern proportion and with that particular avant-garde touch, making the whole look an unique sense of style. Among their stunning F/W 2016/2017 collection we particulary really fond with their decadence-touch seen in hand-made soft organic knit pieces that were embroidered via water-soluble bags or by burgundy patent leather-like coats that are actually made from boiled wool coated in polyurethane.

HILLIER BARTLEY



Let´s put some questions here first, because the answer will be short and the result of it more effective. So, are you looking for best-possible reinterpretation of vintage pieces from different periods reworked and/or reinterpreted and modernized into singular and original looks?  Are you into fabrics like thick wool, velvet, silk, brocade (just to mention few), not to mention different patterns and many of them unite in every outfit? Are you into British heroes and antiheroes from David Bowie to Oscar Wilde to the gangster Kray twins, who dominated London’s East End and Soho in the ’60s? Are you a fan of unique and different accessories, like a rabbit bag or a feather broche to make your every look special and individual? Are you into menswear-inspired cuts and silhouettes, that boyish flamboyant allure and girlie touches? Do you swear on luxury fabrics, perfect execution and originality? If you confirmed something of mentioned or even most of them if not everything with a big yes, well, there´s no doubt that Hillier Bartley is your holy grail place. 

RELAXED RIGOR



Can you imagine contrasts like the Buddhist monks` "uniform" and the military clothing to join together in a new, harmonious unity? Take a look at this menswear collection by Lucio Vanotti, where the relaxing-side goes handy by hand with the rigorous one, if you are not convinced.  The result is an almost raw-purity defined by the ankle-length roomy coat or the she same length, double breasted bathrobe-like one clinched at the waist by a leather belt, oversize varsity wool jacket, while the other are lean and long, some of them sleeveless worn over narrow trousers, shorts or wide-leg ones. 

NEW START


This is a new chapter, new venture for the design (and in life) duo Nicole and Michael Colovos. After Habitual and then eight years as creative directors at Helmut Lang, they launched a self-made eponymous label, characterised by discreet and utilitarian aesthetic, focused on statement daywear. In other words, as seen also by this first collection, functional and clean forms enriched by exquisite details, like Paul Klee-inspired prints on shirt or double stitches on denim-wear.

THE SYMBIOSIS OF CONTRASTS


One of true constants at every Damir Doma women´s-wear collection is a unique juxtaposition between two words, women´s and men´s. After all he started his eponymous brand with menswear and only after a while he added women´s-wear that at the beginning was almost a literal re-interpretation of his menswear collections. This time he combined mannish jackets and oversize sweaters with subtle dresses, he added in his characteristic layering made of more rough materials like thick wool or cotton a delicate garment like silk slip, actually this contrast of rough, rigorous and solid paired with fluid, soft and flowing was present throughout the whole collection. Even the shoes combined the gracious-side of the lace with the mannish structure.