If some other new/fresh brands may appear as an avant-garde or revolutionary to younger generations, there are others, really few, where these brands, actually literally all designers (famous included) “take” here and there inspirations from, if not an ashamed-total-copy(cat). Elements like imperfect stitching, oversize proportions, deconstructed silhouettes and unusual material combining have the same common denominator - the major mother-influence-creative-board named Maison Margiela (especially the period when Martin was still around the house). Even with Galliano´s arrival, Margiela codes are still there. Ok, sometimes maybe mixed with a bit too much Galliano’s typical decadent-rococo, especially in the womenswear collections, but overall they quite fit well together and from the beginning I wasn´t sure about the creative-marriage of these two. I don´t know how much Galliano is involved in the menswear collection, but there´s a lot of Margiela in it. The F/W 2016/2017 for example is a true-tribute to the house heritage; the nineties minimalism seen in soft tailoring combined with punk elements, such as slouchy- deconstructed knits and leather jackets, and rounded up with sportswear, like Lycra tops and leggings.
/ original images and video courtesy of maison margiela /
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