mulberry s/s 2017
photographer lonny spence
london fashion week wmns
_____________________
Showing posts with label S/S 2016. Show all posts
Showing posts with label S/S 2016. Show all posts
SUMMER SARTORIAL
Sartorial should not be a synonym of super-tailored,
armoury-fitted suits. Ok, they are, but never that much when you buy it in
proper sizes, meaning not too small. I am happier when it is a bit less formal,
but still very elegant and what I like the most, comfortable like the
summer-tailoring. Made from lightweight, airy materials, to enable your skin "breathe" properly, with (almost) no those annoying-sweaty moments. The cuts are
generally more generous, with that masculine-approach, never too slouchy or
making you looking cloddish. This is also how Joseph has interpreted the "comfy",
but elegant look for this summer. I am especially in love with the paper silk
Olly blouse and the Doka jacket with matching Ika trouser, both in metallic
twill.
WOMENS-WEAR
Natasa Cagalj is a woman, mother, designer, wife and businesswoman who, despite major of her male colleagues, designs for women. Her clothes and designs doesn´t have that “only-aesthetic” factor, with an intent to make every woman beautiful, including that (most of the time) suffering part, but having comfort, wearability and the practical perspective always in front of everything. Not to mention playful details that are always included in almost every garment and in a good company with Cagalj´s hidden gems, like her sharp cuts, making each Ports 1961 collection always fresh, modern, but still with that timeless approach.
ELLERY S/S 2016 AD CAMPAIGN
photographer darren mcdonald
model hayett mccarthy
________________________
WHEN ELEGANCE IS ALSO PRACTICAL AND COMFORTABLE
Nick Wakeman knows how to deliver the best daily wear, combining the integrity of Japanese design, a synonym of reinterpreting the workwear, with that menswear-inspired touch to achieve harmonious, let´s say, androgynous elegant looks made by refined materials. The summer 2016 at Studio Nicholson has a big accent on crisp-cotton, translated in cropped pants, shirts and t-dresses tightened at the waist, shirt dresses and oblique-cut skirt, all paired with burgundy leather sleepers. And now you cannot really complain on lack of comfort anymore.
HOW DARE I
I missed this one or more correctly to say, I almost missed this one. It would be a true-harm if I would. There was already made a post about the F/W 2016/2017 details, but before I can submerge 100% into that collection, I should pay some attention and respect to the, as I said, almost missed S/S 2016 one. Ethnic-influence is always present in every Marni collection and in this one I´ve got a feeling that Consuelo Castiglioni had a vision to make a new-world tribal-woman with her cyber “armour”. She likes to experiment with different fabrics and these help her while she creates new silhouettes. Those knitted-like giant dots looked like pixelated screens in bold colours or the holed camisole dresses describe perfectly what I am thinking. There were also loads of layering, prints, leather and some sequins, not to mention men´s like pants and fluid, asymmetric skirts and draped dresses. Despite all colours, materials and details, every single thing was seen perfectly and worked harmoniously altogether.
YOHJI´S SUNNIES TAKE TWO
A "marriage" between tradition
and futuristic, made from linear forms and round eye-shape with gold-acetate
lenses, all handcrafted of course. This is the second sunglasses collection for
s/s 2016 from the master of avant-garde tailoring, Yohji Yamamoto.
INDIVIDUAL°ITY
Isabella Rossellini´s distinguish voice on the soundtrack opened the show. This was not just a random thing, but a sort of a true homage to the artist, by who Samuel Drira´s was inspired while making the collection. Just mind her Mao jacket, here reinterpreted in utilitarian collars and rigour. Rosellini is an emblem of eclectic elegance, where she in every of her outfits combines comfort, practicality and usefulness on timeless, sophisticated basis with that always present Asian hint. This is the same aesthetic approached by Samuel Drira in every Nehera collection since he became the brand´s creative director. He offers a new path to sartorial satisfaction through a uniform of individuality and functionality with no season, sexual and style limit. Each garment offers many options of wear, giving to a wearer a freedom of expression, a characteristic that all clothes at the end should have.
MODERN ESSENTIALS
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski in her second season at the French luxury house redefined a new concept of luxury, mixing sporty elements with basic, must-to have in every wardrobe silhouettes made from materials of the highest quality. Everything looks so essential, primordial and alluring, regardless if the material is leather, silk, cashmere or cotton translated in garments like overcoats, tailored jackets, cropped tops, wide trousers and pleated skirts. And when the talk is about essential-pieces, they are, why not say it frankly, they must be comfortable too. Actually beside the shape and the high quality of the material, the comfort is always a must in these pieces and Nadège reached this in the collection, helped also by sneakers, paired with many outfits during the fashion show.
NOVELTIES #45
CALVIN KLEIN summer 2016 ad campaign first look
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
While other brands delivered far long
before their summer 2016 ad campaigns, finding them in all magazines from
January issues on, has Calvin Klein (finally) released a first
"taste" of its summer campaign. Is it tactic or just a delay-thing?
The effect of it, normally in terms of numbers, will tell. The (possibly) total
black and white campaign, an ode to the 90´s, was photographed by James
Hawkesworth, styled by Benjamin Bruno and features Sophie Rask, Frida
Westerlund and Laura Sørensen
other novelties...
IN THE NAME OF COMFORT AND ELEGANCE
The French National Galerie Jeu De Paume, built in 1861 during the reign of Napoleon III and originally housed real tennis courts, is commonly a place dedicated to contemporary art. Bared white walls and wooden floor became a perfect scenario to showcase a collection in the name of discreet elegance and with an optimal level of charm, in one word – Lemaire. The silhouette of the collection was still very Lemaire, meaning playing with volumes, mostly oversize and flared, but this time with some retro-inspired elements and a woman showcasing more than usual her nonchalant side. In the name of comfort and elegance we can say, made of wide big shirts, almost painter smock look-a-like extra-long roomy shirt with a pleating-detail, wide ankle-length and long denim pants ornamented with white double stiches, the same ones seen on a prolonged cotton blazer, wide long pants, a navy blue dress coat with open sleeve cut, long shirt dresses, light cape with an open shoulder cut, below the ankle skirts and coated cotton bottle green coat, paired with various styles of shoes, from two colours leather boots, simple black sandals with a wooden-block heel to leather boots with woven espadrille soles and leather laced shoes. More than usually Lemaire was seen to use accessories; beside mentioned shoes, there were fringed scarves, few bag styles, including my favourite geometric maxi shoulder bag in leather and not to mention the really adorable jewellery collection made in collaboration with the interior and jewellery designer Sophie Buhai that even more elevated mostly monochrome, chic looks. Now I can “reveal” why I waited with this post so long, when it´s not a novelty anymore that I am a huge fan of Lemaire and his philosophy. The reason is simple. The best part always come in the end; it’s like a cherry on the top and Lemaire with this cherry only confirmed (not only to me what we already know – the brand is a true resource for a perfectly-balanced wardrobe, luxurious but never loud, essential but not basic and tasteful without being boring.
ROMANCE IN THE GARDEN
So far we all become aware of Olsen twins’ aesthetic translated into the brand The Row; voluminous, wide, oversize silhouettes in clean, neutral almost conservative lines and colours, I would say ethereal and romantic at the same time. No drastic changes happened for their S/S 2016 collection, presented at the 17th-century Château de Courances (outside Paris), which is absolutely good, it´s (as said) the brand´s dna. The romance, volumes are still here, as is it is very earthy colour palette. The new add came with the more uncovering part of clothes, showing some skin and being less monastic, but still very chic like semi-transparent slip dresses, jackets worn off the shoulder, exposed bras and quite deep V-necks. A big novelty were the shoes, first time done in the fashion house, not to mention two new bag styles and the introduction of a sunglasses collaboration with Oliver Peoples.
TO MIND - J.KIM
Jenia Kim Is a young fashion designer, whose family are Korean emigrants from Uzbekistan. She was raised in the city of Tashkent and then moved to Moscow where she studied first at an art school and later at the Moscow Carl Faberge College of applied arts, where she graduated in 2014. She officially launched her label in the summer 2013, when she launched hers first collection. Kim´s aesthetic is defined by the core elements of traditional Asian costume, represented in a fresh, modern way. The result is a synergy between the Asian-culture-heritage and the contemporary.
JOSEPH S/S 2016 AD CAMPAIGN
photographer david sims
stylist jane how
make-up lucia pieroni
hair paul hanlon
model sofie hemmet
___________________
Joseph´s dna of balancing femininity with
masculinity, focused on simplicity and functionality is more than evident from
this campaign, showing a true minimalism.
YOU ALREADY KNOW
text by our contributing editor and photographer lisbeth breland saalmink
images by paw friis
________________________________________________________
Is a reference to the fact that Nicklas Kunz now is in a sphere that needs no further introduction.
"In my mind, every seasonal collection whether it is a capsule or runway collection, needs to stand alone," Nicklas says. "If the designer is good enough, the garments would need to further explanation, as the observer would feel the strength and power by watching the models walking down the catwalk, dressed to maximize the feeling of understanding the label and its designer."
And there is no doubt that Nicklas Kunz has grown the last couple of seasons. The vigilante, the hoodlum and the curious designer makes a clear statement for his S/S 2016 collection. Living in L.A, two months prior to the show, the creative mind of the Zealand born son, comes to peace when he is allowed to evolve in the environment of his own lupus armentum.
"This season is about the subconscious level within the fashion scene. We watch and read about what a certain brand entail, what the designers feel and think about a seasonal collection and henceforth emphasis on the label and collection rather than make it self-explanatory. In conclusion "You already Know" is a street reference, without labelling the S/S 2016 collection," Mr. Kunz states clearly.
STANDOUT WITHOUT BEING LOUD
Not minding the in-the-between s/s 2016 haute couture time revelation, in a very limited access of course, of their pre-fall 2016 collection, Phoebe´s latest (official and showcased) Céline collection, the S/S 2016, was probably one of her bests so far, if not the best yet to date. Her aesthetic of an elevated minimalism, enriched with arty elements, unexpected details and superior craftsmanship were all present here in maximum levels. Although it may have looked at first sight more sober, probably because of earthier colour palette, including ivory, olive green, tobacco, black and powdery beige-pink, the collection was anything but restrained. The show started with a series of silk slip dresses with some inserting by graphic chevrons of lace and paired with utilitarian footwear to“calm-down” ore more to say balanced the daily femininity, continuing with hourglass-shape coats with elongated knit waists, off shoulder puff sleeve tops, 3/4 length skirts, super-fine pleated knit dresses, voluminous wrap front pants, not to mention flat woven shoes in red, cowboy-inspired booties, the square bag with the front pocket and those pillow-like soft bags. These are great new adds of edgy, elegant, timeless, but still very contemporary pieces to enrich a wardrobe of an independent, creative and intellectual woman.
MIU MIU S/S 2016 AD CAMPAIGN
photographer steven meisel
models millie brady, julia garner, matilda lutz and india salvor menuez
______________________________________________________
The fashion house decided with its long-time creative partner, photographer Steven Meisel, to bring the collection to life through a series of elegant portraits featuring a quartet of new, international actors: Millie Brady, Julia Garner, Matilda Lutz and India Salvor Menuez.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)