ACNE STUDIOS BLå KONST

Acne Studios completely re-launched its denim line, now titled "Acne Studios Blå Konst." The unpredicted move looks as a (good) surprise, but who knows the brand, knows that denim is actually the brand´s "pillar" product from where everything started. "I always had a vision of Acne Studios being a design-driven brand, even since we launched the first 100 pairs of jeans," said Acne creative director, Jonny Johansson. "I will always love denim as it is a part of our roots, our DNA." The jeans part of the collection is composed by three types of fits, Land (the loose one), River (the tapered one) and North (the slim one) for men, while Log (loose) and South (straight) for women, among jackets, tops, shoes, bags and accessories. 

REVERSE

acne studios f/w 2017/2018
paris fashion week wmns
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MULTICULTURAL FUSION

This can be Jonny Johansson answer, point of view on that at the end we are all immigrants by putting a collection where there are no ethnic boundaries, no limitations, but a fusion of different cultures and people, translated in simple, oversize shapes,  with rich textures and patterns, like bohemian caftans, patchwork knit-dresses in fabrics reminding Berber blankets, workwear-inspired overalls, loose judo pants and envelope robe coats and bed jackets, not to mention those Jais crystal-studded loafers.

WINSTON

acne black satin sunglasses

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ACNE STUDIOS GOES GOLD

Acne Studios opened its new flagship store on Madison Avenue in New York City, exactly at 926, one block from the iconic Met Breuer building. This is one of its largest flagships yet, but different from any other Acne Studios store around the world. For each location Jonny Johansson, co-founder and creative director of this beloved Swedish brand, choose a different designer, architect or artist to put their vision of the brand´s aesthetic into reality. This time was a "turn" for a British designer Max Lamb who created a furniture concept composed by polycarbonate elements. This 230 square meter space is literally flooded in gold, from change rooms, mirrors, racks and shelves, with a nice contrast of the black asphalt floor and pillars that are dotted with semi-precious stones, producing a nice cosmic effect. The final touch is made by especially crafted bronze stools, benches and desk, not to mention the custom-made rugs that are made of yarns hand-dyed in Max Lamb´s studio in London and later tufted at Kasthall in Sweden.

MUSUBI

acne studios black leather clutch

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ACNE STUDIOS F/W 2016/2017 AD CAMPAIGN

Acne Studios ‘creative director Jonny Johansson chose the British photographer David Sims for the winter ad campaign due "the way he captures such a specific mood without the need for the usual narrative or story." The first series of shots that is seen to be a classic fashion one, featuring the season key pieces, were revealed few days ago, in time to become an outdoor campaign during upcoming Fashion Weeks. The second "bundle" is set to be released on digital screens at Harrods later this month, with wild postings on streetcars in Milan and during the Fiar Art Show in Paris, while the third and the last one is scheduled for November.

FISHER-WO-MAN

The love for the Baltic coast and sea and consequently a source of inspiration for Jonny Johansson seems not to end, actually it´s quite opposite; from collection to collection seems this source be really fruitful, in every term and form. Acne women´s winter collection "dives" deeply into the Northern Sea and the whole allure comes directly from the fishermen´s work clothes, like the big cargo pants, puffy winter jacket turned into a dress or really cropped jacket or it´s a top, roomy boiler suit and fisherman jacket in crinkly leather, not to mention over-the-knee wellington-inspired boots, sandals and handbags intertwined by thick sailor rope. There is also worth (not only) to mention really beautifully heavy-wool overlapping coats, fastened by thin sort of metal ring belts and a modern-approach to basics made from vinyl.

SWEDISH SUMMER

I cannot recall the fact which was the last collection of Jonny Johansson that was not inspired by the Swedish coast, tiny influences included.  Well, this is nothing wrong, actually it´s quite astonishing and inspiring, after all he lingers a lot on island Torö, where he possesses a cottage, previously owned by Ingmar Bergman. Swedish summers are quite an opposite of those in California, especially when you mind that there never rain. Swedish hottest period includes also days of rain, so good waterproof jackets, like anoraks or raincoats are a must-to-have there. Yes, this rain-protector garment was Johansson´s lead-piece of the whole collection, where among A-line anoraks, stripy boxy blousons and raincoats made from laminated, coated fabrications, there are also jersey pants with side zips, stripped shirt and loose sweaters and cotton shorts, paired with laminated, bold sandals and ankle boots.

MUSIC

This is the first really personal collection that Jonny Johansson made for his beloved Acne. Not that the previous ones were just the collage of fashion-influences, especially those inspired by his beloving sea and surfing, but the music-influence seen here is elevated on maximum levels of his personal expression. The fact that he always wanted to be a musician and that he ended in fashion by chance, says everything. He translated his own musical evolution into the collection with three segments; the postpunk period, the electronic music and his discovery of country music in late 1990´s. The result is an ode-to-androgyny looks containing mannish tailored boxy jackets worn as dresses, cobweb knitwear, straight-fitted trousers Capri-length pants, velvet column dresses with unzipped back, tube-like skirts, but open with a high-side cut and adornments of  cd print circles and sound wave lines, nylon straps, Plexiglas guitars, sock boots and electric guitar-handle sunglasses. He definitely turned on the volume.

ROCK AND SURF

Acne Studios´ man for the upcoming season? A pre-punk period meets the surf or more literally, when Jonny Johansson love for the 70´s American band “The New York Dolls” “combines” with a Biarritz-based surfer Robin Kegel. Besides taking a look on the photos, you can get an idea when mixing woven jersey, tailored wools and silk poplin seen in fluid, relaxed silhouettes in soft mauve, petrol, pistachio and yellow, with abstract graphic surfboard prints made by Kegel. Then you just to add Bowie´s like statement platform boots to get a perfect picture of it. 

CAMEL FOOT

michael kors wool-blend bomber jacket

loewe anton one-shoulder backpack

uniqlo polo neck

acne studios wool and mohair trousers

valentino cashmere sweater

grenson archie leather wingtip brogues

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This time less nomadic, more sporty, but still clean and comfortable. Warm too. For almost anywhere, daywear.

ACNE STUDIOS F/W 2015/2016 AD CAMPAIGN

Who is the 11-year-old boy, wearing a pale-pink coat and high heels in the new Acne Studios ad campaign that will run in outdoor advertising in Paris, London, New York and Hong Kong? It´s Acne´s creative director son, Frasse Johansson, captured by the brand long-term collaborator and photographer Viviane Sassen.  

“I’ve seen this new generation’s attitude to fashion where the cut, the shape, and the character of the garment is the crucial thing, rather than seeking approval from society or to follow set norms. I immediately pictured Frasse, since he embodies this new breed to me. I asked him and I’m happy that he wanted to be a part of the campaign.”- said Jonny Johansson about it.

If we consider, that lately we´ve seen Cindy Crawford's 13-year-old daughter Kaia Gerber scoring a September spread in CR Fashion Book and Jane Birkin's 12-year-old granddaughter, Alice Attal, as the face of Comptoir des Cotonniers, just to name the few, is this becoming a true trend. At the end I am simply asking myself, where is really the point of this? 

DENIM IN RESORT 2016

Did you think that there will not be a women´s denim report? Really? I don´t believe you*. Of course they will. Sorry to say guys, but fashion business is still lead by women’s-wear**, so it´s time to check what or where*** the denim is present resort 2016 collections.                                                                           

BOTH SIDES NOW

hemès vintage silk scarf

acne studios poplin cotton shirt

marni strap leather sandals

isabel marant cotton and linen wide leg pants

maison margiela 11 east west tote

junghans max bill chronoscope

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WALKING IN THE RAIN

lemaire parka

acne studios sweatshirt

public school mandarin collar shirt

acne studios town stay cash jeans

givenchy mini pandora bag

adidas stan smith

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Actually the rain has (finally) gone, leaving a very low temperature level for this period (we are one step from the official beginning of summer). But I still like it - somehow refreshing, I must say. It´s great to be able using it as mine, very-typicall excuse -  to wear my all-time favourite part of wardrobe. The outwear.
/ Photo ©tedore /

CORDA

acne studios corda sandals

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If you know Italian, then a word "corda" is more than familiar to you; it means "rope". Rope? Yes. We all know "espadrilles", the well-known summer shoes, made (originally) from a canvas or cotton upper part and a flexible jute-rope sole. Acne´s corda is not so far from that. The sole is espadrilles-inspired and the upper part is open, sandal-type of the shoe, made of beige calf suede. I would say perfect for urban-daily outfits and why not even for daring evening ones.

NOVELTIES #14

THE ARTIST IS ABSENT: a short film on martin margiela

  _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 

…is a new short documentary released by The Yoox Group. The film, directed by New York filmmaker Alison Chernick, explores the secretive Belgian fashion designer (now artist) and features Raf Simons, Suzy Menkes and Jean Paul Gaultier. It was also selected for the 2015 edition of the Tribeca Film Festival. It´s all about documentaries lately.

Enjoy the first official trailer.

other novelties...

CANNES 2015 ten must-see movies at this year’s festival

BALENCIAGA accidentally lists bags online for under $200

JOSEPH ALTUZARRA discusses how the internet influences his business

CHANEL - the saviour of savoir-faire

british fashion council drops its SS16 NEWGEN MEN line-up

ACNE STUDIOS unveils first eyewear collection and it's full of color

first details about the uniqlo links with CARINE ROITFELD

MARILYN MINTER on her first major retrospective

SKI TAILORING

This time Jonny Johansson challenged himself with traditional materials, like Harris tweed or Shetland wool and making them to look new. Inspired by the 30´s, time when women started having importance in sports, he is proposing to us ski-influenced boxy suits in whipcord, sporty tops and mountain shoes. Even if he was focused this time mostly on men´s sartorial allure, like tweeds or cropped jackets with frayed edges, he didn´t forget to ad feminine elements too, like laces and cocoon shapes, especially seen in coats.

CASUAL EVENING

acne studios blazer

sacai t-shirt

mih jeans

tod`s loafers

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I thought that with the last outfit post I will end with summer-ish looks...until the weather surprised me. We are in the second part of October and I am still socks-less...probably I got the cold, because of that (not so clever me), but I simply love the feeling and I feel ok now. The bare-foot here I´ve balanced with a light wool blazer that is more than enough to "protect me" during freshly evenings as the one yesterday. I paired it with a simple cotton T-shirt and boyfriend-style jeans, to make the look easy, more casual and not that serious. Ready for an aperitif, dinner, talk and laughs. Having a great time. Love being easy.

/ Photo ©tedore /