LILY OF THE VALLEY BROOCH

 

    original image courtesy ©Dior

Sterling silver transforms into botanical poetry through the atelier's articulated craftsmanship. Eight centimetres of precious metal become a living talisman, capturing the delicate geometry of muguet, that bell-shaped flower which Christian Dior kept always within a reliquary at his breast, cherishing its spring-born promise of fortune. 

Jonathan Anderson's inaugural couture vision for the House resurrects this verdant language, channelling generations of creative inheritance into wearable art. The brooch emerges from his Spring-Summer 2026 collection as part of the Dior Couture Charms series, where playful sophistication meets the atelier's most hallowed codes. Each petal, each stem articulates through hinged construction, animated by the wearer's movement, a kinetic sculpture that recalls how Monsieur Dior himself distributed fresh sprigs to his petites mains every first of May, ensuring luck blessed the fingers that brought dreams into silk and taffeta. 

LANTERN

loewe leather bag in tan and gold

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NOVELTIES #61

claire waight keller new creative director at GIVENCHY

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After two weeks from her final show for Chloé, Claire Waight Keller was officially confirmed by the French luxury label Givenchy as a new Creative Director, effective from May 02.

"She has this great ability to break the rules and innovate without making a revolution," Givenchy CEO Philippe Fortunato told to WWD. "Her very focused approach will help the brand in building the on-going momentum we have – and taking it to the next level."

"Hubert de Givenchy's confident style has always been an inspiration and I am very grateful for the opportunity to be a part of this legendary house’s history," said Waight Keller. "I look forward to working with the teams and writing a new chapter in this beautiful story."

Her debut collection for the French house is set in October.

other novelties...

UNIQUE

Who is this beautiful girl? The J.W. Anderson girl, resort collection or not, always different from others, always special, maybe this time less ruffled and put a bit aside the flair, but more laid back, minimalistic compared to others season and especially utilitarian, a girl who likes to be unique, herself, not a copy-paste, but also a girl who is into light and comfy pieces, graphics too, not to mention her attention into details, neither her evolving femininity.

PIERCE

j.w.anderson leather pierce bag

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MODERNIST AND ORGANIC

I guess that there´s no doubts on what J.W. Anderson made from Loewe, ok I will say it again, he put a big spotlight on this Spanish brand (known mostly for its leather manufacturing) in the luxury sector by reinventing the whole image and aesthetic. I guess also that we can freely say that Maison de L´Unesco become lately a sort of the brand´s “showcase-place” when presenting their new collection. This time happened to be the Joan Miró rooms to host the latest women´s wear creations.

Loewe´s winter is denoted by an organic elegance and a sophisticated modernism, brand´s most polished collection made by Anderson yet. Just mind that gorgeous padded coat in cognac-coloured buttery leather with matching pants or the similar “mise” in military-green. Of course he didn´t let us yearn for quirkiness, because it was still there, thankfully. I simply cannot imagine any design made by Anderson not having it; it is his unique trademark. So, there were leather corsets sculpted on tube dresses,  long and pleated skirts with raw handkerchief hems, beaded necklaces that make that extra gathering in neckline and waist of loose cotton shirtdresses, tasselled tweeds and looped chainmail skirts or the sparkly-metal effect of dress sleeves made out of metal rings, not to mention the importance of many accessories present, like hand-painted resin cat-shaped pendants, back-open silver court shoes and of course the bags, the multi-pocket version of the classic-already Amazona bag and the Joyce bag, featuring a big gold logo plate as a novelty of the house.

THE PIERCE BAG

When you combine a ladylike boxy shape with a rough-punk detail as a piercing and all was actually evolved from the meswear collection, well this cannot be anyone else, if not J.W. Anderson.

"For me it's important that a bag evolves as it gets older. I wanted to create something classic with a cultural edge to it. It started with a menswear collection from previous season, where we pierced some of the clothes. I liked the idea taking a bit of punk a reference and adding a twist," said he not so long ago about the whole idea to New York Times, as it also not long ago the bag debuted exclusively at Matches, in three different size and colours ranging from black, navy, tan, navy blue, white and gray.

COCKTAIL TIME

Can you put in the same sentence J.W. Anderson and a cocktail dress? Sure, if you add in-between the word quirky or also deliberate awkwardness and it works as magic! His f/w 2016/2017 women’s-wear collection it is an ode to a cocktail dress, in his way of course or in a more fashionably way to say, his concept of cocktail wear. Anderson´s futuristic huge-touch was almost literal this time, because referencing well-known sci-fi movies from the 70´s, yeah, the same period of Pierre Cardin, whose aesthetic was based on avant-garde style and Space Age designs, the one who used a lot of non-conventional materials, especially for that time.

Anderson experimented as usual with all three elements, texture, volume and silhouette, from A-line tuxedo shirt dresses with multi-coloured wavy hems to circular, zippered and draped tunics with asymmetrical hems and embossed trousers, cowl-neck tunics, quilted jackets, studded tops and deconstructed blouses that were held together by metal rings. If someone needed (still, really?) a confirmation of his talent, well, a nice and generous portion of it was served with this collection. Bon appétit!

MONO°GRAM

j.w. anderson monogram leather bag

nina donis blouse

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Psssssst...you know what is even better? They are both in sale.

LOEWE F/W 2016/2017 AD CAMPAIGN

Liya Kebede and Jackson Wakefield were captured by a master-photographer Steven Meisel in front of a sculpture combining rugged rocklike formations with white iridescent sections, while the art direction and styling went to long-time Jonathan Anderson collaborators, M/M Paris and Benjamin Bruno.

NOVELTIES #50

CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE joins uniqlo

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Following the huge success of Christophe Lemaire´s fall and spring collection for Uniqlo, the Japanese fast-fashion giant named the designer as the artistic director of the new Uniqlo Paris Research and Development Centre, but also to design a completely new line called Uniqlo U. Although Lemaire designed his previous Uniqlo collections with partner in business and life Sarah-Linh Tran, this new contract for Uniqlo U line sees Lemaire on an individual basis, said a representative for Uniqlo, but it's possible Tran will be involved at his discretion. The collection will debut during Paris Couture Week in early July, while in retail stores will hit for the Fall/Winter 2016 season.

"I am delighted to welcome Mr. Christophe Lemaire as a member of the Uniqlo team. I have time and again been astonished by his outstanding talent in working together to create the Uniqlo and Lemaire collection. I look forward to seeing more of the innovations that he inspires, and I am confident that his tremendous experience and talent will thrive at Uniqlo," Tadashi Yanai — chairman, president and CEO of Fast Retailing, Uniqlo's parent company — told Business of Fashion, where you can also read an exclusive interview made by Tim Blanks to Christophe Lemaire, here.

other novelties...

J.W.ANDERSON + MACKINTOSH

ladies beige trench

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LOEWE F/W 2016/2017 LOOKBOOK

Before I focus/analyse or simply write my point of view of the F/W 2016/2017collection, Loewe released the lookbook, shot by Jamie Hawkesworth and featuring Mayka Merino, Natalia Westling and Vittoria Ceretti.

UN TIPO MUY PECULIAR

loewe f/w 2016/2017

photographer olivia lopez

paris fashion week wmns

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J.W. ANDERSON F/W 2016/2017 ACCESSORIES

/ original images courtesy of j.w. anderson /

AGAINST THE FLOW

When majority of designers every season on” easy-foot only” re-do their own version and vision of latest trend-s (there is still on and almost everywhere that yet-annoying 70´s), exist few, believe me, really few exceptional-individualist that are simply doing their own “thing” and creatively overshadow others. Frankly, this should do every designer or those who want to be entitled that way. Fashion should be creative and not only manipulative re-copies of the past with an (worst) excuse to make money.  It should, but it isn´t. J.W. Anderson is one of those rarities who still swims and I bet even with more rebellion against the stream. We cannot adore every single piece from his collection, but we are always captivated by. His androgynous-man, interlaced between the kinetic, rave energy and Disney-like world, from the latest showed collection in London, proves that.  Anderson´s alabaster-models, “equipped” with Perspex studded collars, metal headbands and leather boxing boots, showcased knee-length cocooning with ripped parts cardigans,  a perforated stamped leather coat, rabbit-fur vests, prolonged satin-suits with cloud-shaped zipped pouch pockets, a fluffy white-fur bomber, rib knitted pants that were laced at the ankle, a ribbed-olive knit ensemble and loads of pyjama-like combos. The snail-symbol, embossed, printed or stitched, was present almost on every look, as a great contraposition to the Michel Gaubert´s techno hard-core soundtrack (and not only).

NOVELTIES #42

THE ROW launches their first shoes collection

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The ten years old label is expanding in a major way; the first big move is their first footwear line, revealed today at The Row´s pre-fall 2016 presentation in New York. The collection, all made-in-Italy features seven sophisticated styles in various fabrications and colours for pre-fall . They will be priced from $850 to $1,350, excluding exotics, and will be sold at The Row’s existing retailers and at the brand’s retail stores from May this year.

The sisters’ duo has a plane to open a New York flagship in a townhouse at 17 East 71st Street, after the brand opened last year its first store, on Melrose Place in Los Angeles.

other novelties...

HE REALLY KNOWS HOW

Every collection that J.W. Anderson makes, except maybe the one for Vesrus, it comes as a true surprise and believe me, nowadays it´s quite hard to see anything interesting on a catwalk, beside few brands making really great daily-pieces (whereby you built your perfect wardrobe). I really like Anderson and I think that he is, regardless double* awards at the BFA yesterday, one of really, really few designers to be named as a true talent. His style is distinctive, almost unique and although every time different, you always know that is about him and his aesthetic. I admire his idea of mixing periods, new concepts and also his playful side in a really smart way.  Want a proof? Do I need to prove it? I hardly think so. Take a look at his latest Loewe collection.  Anderson plays with the idea of mixing two poles that are representing the current word; a synthetic, man-made on one side versus organic, natural materials on the other side. Many could also say a mix of a good-taste, almost bourgeois´ style with a bad-taste made of literal pvc- transparency, logo-mania and a the first sight not really flattering shoes .  Exactly here is the core, the essence of his brilliance; merging really sellable clothes with the “wow-factor” editorial ones. Once again my dear, chapeau!

TRANS°PARENT

loewe s/s 2016

paris fashion week

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CERULEAN BLUE

womenswear s/s 2016

photographer dan roberts

paris fashion week

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