Showing posts with label Haider Ackermann. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Haider Ackermann. Show all posts

THE DIALOGUE OF DESIRE

 

    original image and video courtesy ©Tom Ford



Haider Ackermann's Spring/Summer 2026 collection for Tom Ford opened with three models in patent leather moving slowly across a midnight blue lacquered floor. A warm green trench coat with a popped collar, a deep mauve jacket-and-skirt set, a black hooded ensemble, each piece glistening like water under moonlight. This opening gesture announced the collection's central proposition: seduction rendered through careful calibration between exposure and restraint. 

The midnight swim inspiration revealed itself gradually. Patent leather carried laser-cut perforations that suggested mesh, creating patterns of revealed skin beneath. Bias-cut silk dresses moved like liquid. Satin suits appeared in unexpected pastels: lime green, baby pink, mint, pool blue, and orange. David Bowie's stripped-down, a cappella version of "Heroes" filled the space, the song's yearning transformed into an intimate whisper as models walked slowly, often in pairs, making eye contact with each other and the audience. 

Ackermann's technical mastery showed in the details. Wire construction held strapless gowns suspended as though from invisible threads. A lapis blue gown with cap sleeves featured a cutout back plunging low enough to eliminate undergarments entirely, yet the precision of construction read as classical sculpture rather than provocation. Shawl draping appeared on evening pieces. A mint-and-black draped gown created visual tension through two-tone contrast. Slip dresses carried trim of laser-cut leather lace, juxtaposing the delicate against the strong. 

LESS STRUCTURED, MORE SOFTER


The upcoming warmer season sees a bit less of Ackermann´s well known cinched-waist structured and rigid silhouettes, but more softer and feminine ones. Far from renaissance-feeling, his women´s femininity is still kind-a bold, full of male/female contrasts, like a punk-rocker who without any hint of demure showcase its softer side. A world where oversize gets hand-in-hand with slim silhouettes, punk/rock elements matches well with Far East ones. 

3 FAVOURITE BEAUTY LOOKS F/W 2017/2018 PFW






After New York and Milan also in Paris the main beauty code through fashion shows was "natural beauty", the no-make up make-up, like at Haider Ackermann lit up with touches of highlighter, at Dries Van Noten with a super-glowy complexion or at Y/Project that opted for a pure, almost virgin look. Even hairstyles in major shows were looking "undone". We love it!

PLISSÉ



photographer thurstan redding 
paris fashion week wmns
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NOVELTIES #55



HAIDER ACKERMANN is berluti´s new creative director
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Berluti, founded in 1895 as a luxury shoemaker and in 1993 was acquired by LVMH, who´s first ready-to-wear collection was in 2011, appointed Haider Ackermann as its new creative director. The Colombian designer that succeeds Alessandro Sartori´s five years at Berluti, will present his debut collection for the Paris-based brand, the F/W 2017/2018, in January during Parisian men´s fashion week. 


other novelties ...

NOVELTIES #54



RAF SIMONS + calvin klein
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All rumours and speculations are finally over, because from Tuesday 02.08 is official – Raf Simons joins Calvin Klein as the new Chief Creative officer with his long-time collaborator (right hand) Pieter Mullier as creative director. The brand confirmed that with a statement posted on Instagram.
Surprised? Despite everything he said in his press release announcing his “divorce” from Dior “It is a decision based entirely and equally on my desire to focus on other interests in my life, including my own brand, and the passions that drive me outside my work,” not at all. What good/ great he can/ will bring to the brand and even to the whole NewYork Fashion (scene), as usual time and, of course, facts will tell. Cheers to Raf!


other novelties ...

SOFT LIKE A ROSE


His well-known loose-fitting silhouettes made often of floor-length robes, unconstructed blazers paired with tailored pants evoking romantic poetry was still present in his S/S 2015 collection; but there was a difference, quite big one. The multi-layering effect that he uses in most of his past collections were almost gone and I doubt that just because of a summer collection. Everything was gentler, easy, soft…could I say minimal? Yes. From the monochromatic looks, that he did also in his winter 2014/2015 collection, by adding this time soft pinks among lilacs, whites and greys.  Maybe the soft, gentle part came from the inspiration for this collection; a rose, actually her petals, here resembled in blouses with ruffles and ruched jackets. But I guess also by for example pairing a seemingly easy sweater with comfortable pants and light duster/vest. In the last two seasons Haider Ackermann did a brilliant job; reinventing the brand´s aesthetic without change it. Maybe it´s more accurate to say that he refresh it. Well done. 

GRACEFUL MASCULINITY


Haider Ackermann´s collections, no matter for women or for men, are always a perfect connection and combination between masculine and feminine.  His woman for the F/W 2014/2015 remains in this dna, with less frills, but with more elegance and simplicity. A graceful masculinity. Ackermann is also very known as a master of pattern and color mixing in his collection and if you thought to buy a certain look, you had to buy every possible piece from that look, to achieve the Ackermann result, effect; which came pretty costly. This collection offers the opposite; monochrome outfits in earth-tone colors, with almost no pattern present, to achieve a very versatile collection, with pieces that works perfectly also as separates. Wide trousers with a matching coat or blazer, jumpsuits, turtle neck dresses for linear, but loose, floor-length shapes; the alternative for them were skinny trousers, like the python-skin cropped jeans-shaped pants.The only beats of an old Ackermann was in the occasional textural of a graphic hound’s-tooth present in few separate pieces, like a tubular skirt, slouchy pants, coat and blazer. To break the tailoring rigorosity, there were sporty elements present in the collection, like hoodies and bombers, enriched with fox fur. Evening wear is less transparent and provocative, but more elegant; thanks to super tailored blazers.

More customer-aware is a new Haider Ackermann collection; more than a just step forward; a positive evolution.

/ click on "Read more" or on the title of this post to see all photos from the collection /

HELLO STAN SMITH!





A big welcome back to Adidas "Stan Smith" sneakers; a tribute sneakers for the 1970s tennis star's name, Stanley Roger Smith, has appeared on the best-selling sports shoe of all time since 1971. They sold a not inconsiderable 40 million pairs over the years and, on 15 January, after two years on the sidelines Smith’s shoes are stepped back into the public attention. And the success continues, because they are mostly (99%) everywhere sold out.

Here you have a link of the site where they are still (hurry, not for long) available. Beside Stan Smith, my collage is all about layering and sport vibe. A white turtle neck under a black shirt (with a top button opened) and covered with a nice, classic, but with a modern edge (no collar) coat. The volume comes with wider, but still elegant trousers. To calm everything down, Stan´s of course ;)

A MAN OF THE 19TH CENTURY LITERARY SOCIETY


I still do not know if his menswear collection is the reflection and inspiration from his womenswear or vice-versa, he knows always what the Ackermann man looks like and he translate it on womenswear (with which he actually started)? Ok, never mind. I simply know that I totally adore his vision, especially for menswear.

His men for the F/W 2014/2015 is an upgrade, a step forward of what we saw for S/S 2014. This time more sober with opulent fabrics, but still rich and textural.  A man of the 19th century literary society, dressed in inimitable Ackermann´s layered style; elongated overcoats, slouchy pants, a stripped cardigan and coat, velvet jackets, camel blouson, fur-lined parka and wrapped scarves to complete all (very well studied) ensembles.  Looks hardly to copy with your home-what-I-have stuff. This is an Ackermann trick, but also maybe his weak point; need to have all Ackermann stuff, to get an Ackermann look?

/ click on "Read more" to see all photos from the collection /

HAIDER ACKERMANN MENSWEAR SS 2014



Before I make a post of the Ackermann´s F/W 2014/2015 menswear collection, I really need to post this, a live version of what we saw six months ago. In love motion the collection is even more yummy-able. Is that possible! In Looove...and yes, it´s already in stores ;).

SALE EDIT: JUMPSUIT TIME



FROM LEFT TO RIGHT
DRIES VAN NOTEN oversized reno coat 
HAIDER ACKERMANN vitro turtle neck top 
YOHJI YAMAMOTO jumpsuit 


The sale started in Europe like two weeks ago and in the Usa like (close to) a month ago. Nothing new to write down...it´s not a news thing. I´ve decided to do in next few weeks some stylings, outfits from my favorite on-line shops and of course with only items from the sale. LN-CC starts. From their marvelous selection, here is a day-casual-cozy-unisex outfit. With a season-less element. Consequently they are all good-investment pieces.
What do you have in your mind to buy or you have on your wish list from the sale? Or what you already bought on sale? 

LAYERING




We are in the time of so called "the transitional weather period", a time when the weather is changing day to day...one day you feel like is springtime (and it´s just a matter of seconds when you will see flower blossoming), then the another day you feel freezing, like it´s the beginning of the winter (and you got a question mark under your head, like: It´s not a time for the snow...it´s too early!!). Consequently every day you do not know what to wear...less or more? The answer is: "layering"! You can feel cozy when it´s cold, but you can still put off few things if the weather wants to play it´s warmer version.

Here I made two daily-wear-urban outfits...which actually you can still mix-match with one-another. The main color is black (never miss it ;) ), brightened with some beige and python. A plus, actually a must in my selection is also the comfort factor: soft and warm materials, combined with no tight garments.

How you like it? Tell me your opinions.


NO THRILL



After a “heavy” woolen winter collection it was a time for Haider Ackermann to bring everything on a lighter level; of course it was for a warmer season! (lol :P ). And some outfits, like the silk tulle dresses and tops, seen few times during the show ,were really throughout-to- see and transparent,  without  leaving you any imagination (I would prefer them as a part of the layering…as he did it in the past). Beside that “nude” parts, the collection included his always present and trade mark factor of dandyism; boxy jackets, slouchy or/and tight-skinny pants, pleat skirts, dresses, shirts and jumpsuits, mostly in silk and some in the shimmering metallic fabrics; all worn in a layering way (a bit less than usual) and marked by rich, dark tones such as bronze, purple and sapphire.

I am a big fan of Mr. Ackermann, but in this collection I missed a wow factor, the one that I had in his last winter collection. Maybe is the problem that he repeated himself in this one (you never get wowed by things you already saw, don´t you?), because I find a bit sad also to listen comments by others saying "We saw what we expected from him." I hope that in his future collection, he will think to expand his boundaries and to leave, almost a bit, his (already) comfort zone.

/ click on "Read more" to see the entire collection /

DAILY STANDARDS




Black boots. Always! Ankle or (a bit) higher. It´s all in a simple shape. It´s all in details. My current picks (read: wish list).


HAPPY 10TH ANNIVERSARY HAIDER ACKERMANN





I feel ashamed, because I totally missed this! But nothing is too late…what I am talking about?

A month ago, between the 23 and 25 of July in Colombia was happening the 24th edition of Colombia Moda (a sort of their fashion week) and the launching show was Haider Ackermann´s 10 year’s retrospective. Haider was born in Colombia then adopted by French parents when he was nine (he lived in Ethiopia, Chad, and Algeria before his family moved in the Netherlands) and now based in Paris. After many years, he returned to Colombia only last year for the first time after leaving.

Before the show happened, he also received a key to the city of Medellin from the Mayor, Aníbal Gaviria. The 10 year retrospective of Ackermann´s aesthetic was concentrated 38 runway looks, featuring his well-known color palette, black, plum, olive green, dark blue, silver grey, petrol, white,.. perfectly merged with his favorite fabric, silk. A nice, cohesive collection, that do not gives you a feeling that some pieces are like 10 years old, but looks really fresh and so timeless.

Happy 10th Haider, my dearest!

/ click "Read more" to see the entire collection /

ACKERMANN´S STUNNING POETRY




After some more and some less appreciable S/S 2013 menswear collections...then he comes. A wow factor...again from one and only Haider Ackermann."It´s always the same story" he declared at the presentation of his first official (beside the one-off he showed at Pitti in Florence a few years ago) menswear collection. By saying that he meant shiny renaissance jacquards cut into trousers, sumptuous duchesse satins tailored into jackets and generous swathes of fringed silk slung. A sort of re-visitation from his past womenswear collections (especially the S/S 2012  ).
An urban-oriental-elegant man who likes to combine baggy trousers with gathered cuffs paired with a blazer piped pajama-like or a kimono-detailed dinner jacket in lilac duchesse satin with its accompanying trousers sporting the crotch drop for example.
I guess it doesn´t sound awkward if i say that i would Love each piece of this collection in my wardrobe? No, because i really mean it!
Long live the king Ackermann and his poetry aesthetic.

p.s.: Because of the beauty of this collection i´ve decided to leave each image in "solo" version and not paired. To see the bigger size of each image, just click on each image.

GET THE LOOK // YELLOW POP / WOMEN


Spring is finally here! Not only on the calendar, but also with beautiful sunny weather. So let´s celebrate it with a yellow-pop of color in your outfit...like the skirt shown below. Play the girly elements (print-flower t-shirt and an a-line skirt) with some garcon-ish elements (nice, pointed flats and a bit oversize leather jacket). 

Here´s how i imagine the look. To buy items, just click on the text below each product.   







































VALENTINE JACKET WITH STRIPED SLEEVES / ACNE
































CUT PRINT T-SHIRT / CHRISTOPHER KANE













































"SCOUT" SMALL DRAWSTRING CROSSBODY / 3.1 PHILLIP LIM













































COTTON BLEND A-SKIRT / M MISSONI









































POINTED LEATHER SHOES / HAIDER ACKERMANN


























MINI CIRCLE RING / MOCUN