PRADA S/S 2016 SET

The corrugated polycarbonate surfaces and smooth fiberglass set-scenario was that impressive for Prada, to use it at both S/S 2016 collections; menswear back in June and womenswear in September. The set was made by brand´s long-time* collaborators at OMA with their research arm AMO, the same ones that also completed the Fondazione Prada**.

SUNDAY INSPIRATION #61

vogue (unedited b-roll outtakes)
directed by david fincher, 1990
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Happy birthday M ❤

NOVELTIES #28

SAVAGE BEAUTY in numbers

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At 11pm on 2 August the Alexander McQueen exhibit “Savaga Beauty” at V&A museum, closed its doors.  After 21-week run, the exhibition reached a total of 493,043 visitors, making it the V&A´s most popular exhibition of all time to date. The museum celebrates date withthis unique behind-the-scenes video

other novelties...

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN F/W 2015/2016

BEHIND DIOR HOMME F/W 2014/2015

The cold is not yet in his maximum power, but the sale of warm-to be need pieces is already on. Why not to take a look at this backstage video of Dior Homme´s F/W 2014/2015 made by Willy Vanderperre, to find a possible "the piece" we are looking for?

My tip? Parka or the utility jacket.

CROCODILE + TORTOISE

text and "inside" photos by our contributing editor and photographer lisbeth breland saalmink 

collection images courtesy of vibe johansson
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As the solemn Nordic winter light lays its irreverent dark upon the city, we find our self-tangled between the looming frost and the monochrome pallet of optical illusions, where the afternoon bliss fight the fall foliage and wins the battle of dour, but not monotonous patterns.

Vibe Johansson is a Danish born fashion designer, located in Copenhagen, Denmark. She has her education from BEC design in Copenhagen and Polimoda, Florence; a place that also have been her second home and of great inspiration to Vibe. The constant curiosity, the silent observations and the noble approach have led Vibe Johansson to several countries, journeys that reflects the strong design Vibe Johansson stands for. The elegant feminine silhouettes, a style subsumed under categories with an Avant-garde touch, Japanese uniforms, classical every day wear and tailored evening dresses, shows the duality of her strong design.

Her F/W 2014/2015 collection is a research of semitransparent mottled surface of Nile crocodiles and tortoise. A profound effect of perceived depth of dimensions in the fabric and structure. A sartorial depicting of lines, shapes and patterns. An implied elegance for the leisurely bearer that completes the proportions of the monochrome pallet. Pieces of dual functions, comfort and eye catching details. The delightful tone of the greyscale that we embrace in solitude and diversity.

INSIDE - THE MAKING OF CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE´S BAG

Inside is the new feature on Tedore; it´s a sort of behind the scenes or a process or the making of. A good way to discover details, techniques, people,…and to show you what is (really) behind of the “glittery” side of fashion (and not only). It´s not just a final product that we see and/or buy; it´s a whole process. 

Who else can be the perfect first than (my) one and only Christophe Lemaire…

We know that proverb “Behind a successful man stands a great woman”; this is also the case of Christophe Lemaire. Something like eight years ago he met his partner, muse and nowadays brand´s studio director Sarah-Linh Tran. That time she was still a student and Christophe was just to restart his namesake label. They discovered that they had a certain sensitivity and complicity about aesthetics and style and art and movies, so they start to work together. The “collaboration” was and still is really fruitful and the brand has really grown in renown; the result is what we see and know about the brand these years.

For the marvellous F/W 2014/2015 collection they´ve created two styles of mould, seamless leather bags: a tall, elegant tote and a caramel-coloured cross-body bag. And what a bags! From the first time I saw them on the F/W 2014/2015, they went straight to my whish list (as the whole collection). I must say best bags that I´ve got the privilege to see so far, because they got what a perfect bag should have - originality, craftmenship, elegant, but still daily and most important, timeless. 
In September you can get them at Lemair´s Paris boutique; they will be available in the limited edition of fifteen pieces.  They cost 2.085 and 1.925 Eur; the price really reflects the long and a hard process that requires making them. In Paris, under hands of the master craftsman Carlos Penafiel (who is specialized to create 3-D leather 

BARBARA I GONGINI F/W 14/15 BEHIND THE SCENES

/ Photos courtesy of Lisbeth Breland saalmink // listimm.com  and words by Marlo Saalmink - marlosaalmink.com /

BARBARA I GONGINI S/S 2014

BARBARA I GONGINI SS14 woman researches multi-lateral ways to explore utility garments, by embracing a connection between avant-garde aesthetics and personal sartorial interaction. The central thought of this collection is collecting garments by merging styles and allowing for functional reflections on silhouettes and tailoring.

Conceptual, yet composed, garments are fit for combined layering or appear detachable for more deconstructed shapes. The highly interactive collection challenges wearers to play with textures, shapes and volumes. Dry cotton jersey, light silks, translucent gauze, fine leather coated cotton knits, 3d surfaced rendered linens and tulles, are fitted into a symphony of monochrome individuality.

In the other hand Barbara´s man is playful, yet pensive and composed, SS14 MAN challenges modern sartorial standards, by providing optional interchangeability and by inviting wearers to explore their silhouettes allegorically.

The collection is defined by combinations, dimensional variations, textural explorations and componential silhouettes.

Asymmetry, multi layering and long silhouettes are juxtaposed opposite sleeker fluid basics, allowing for individual wardrobe decisions. Each look can be deconstructed, or layers can be added on, as garment components seamlessly complementing each other. An array of fitted coats, shorts, lush leggings, elongated shirts and constructed oversized vests, are transitioned into full silhouettes, by the introduction of directional accessories.

Barbara´s trademark aesthetic, a mix of Nordic avant-garde with nice shaped daywear must have basics, is evolving into a very solid brand. A brand with the feeling that has a great heritage behind it.

Behind the scenes photos by Lis Breland Saalmink / listimm.com 

Images and video courtesy of Barbara I Gongini, special thanks to Marlo Saalmink for the text material

MINIMALISTIC STREETSWEAR

Minimalistic streetwear is a perfect expression to describe Neil Barret´s menswear for S/S 2014. Nice and clean cuts, precious textures and precise silhouettes. Maxi cheks, multiple stripes and big bubbles are printed into tops and jackets. Blazers and streetswear essential bomber jackets are made with different textures: from a cotton to neoprene, from men´s boucle to precious print cavallino leather.
Overall a 100% Neil Barrett collection.

Photos by: Luca Campri

NEW DESIGNER // PEPA SALAZAR / F/W 2013/2014 / "S, M, L, XL"

Bio

Pepa Salazar Hall (Valencia, 1990) moves to Madrid and studied fashion design at the IED.
She is particularly interested in the pattern and perfect their knowledge in the field with courses at the School Sastreríaa National Tailors and Isabel Sanchez workshop, focused on the study of different techniques of pattern making and modeling.

When she finished her studies, Loewe enters six months she entres at Loewe in the department of women ready-to-wear and among other projects contributes to the development of the collection F / W 2012 for fashion week in Paris. Develop a collaboration with designers "Art comes first" for Zombie Clothing. Her first collection "S, M, L, XL" is selected for the Ego* F/W 2013.



About "S, M, L, XL"

 "S, M, L XL" for EGO edition is a collection marked by radical contrasts and game volumes through patterns. Salazar´s first collection of pieces based on unfinished deliberately seeking to show their "skeleton". 

A parade of texture contrasts and covers two ranges: the binomial dark blue and black tones or a delicate vanilla shown consistent with translucent white. Overall predominate color blocks with the subtle presence of an abstract pattern in white and blue. 

Skirts - made of the technological fabrics, plastic and polyester- draped pieces emerge with much movement and are a real statement of intent:  to bare the items by dragging them into their primary essence. Far from hiding - patterns and seams, which are minimized -  are shown in an obvious way creating unusual volumes and overlaps. Also the fur-metallic, rough or flexible webs, play a key role when combined with cloth and hand felted wool.The tissues involve the models in a casual intentionally, as if they had just fallen on his body.  
Easy to wear garments aimed at an urban woman, feminine and edgy. A successful debut with surprising maturity, by deep immersion in the study of the pattern and the versatility of the garments.

BEHIND THE SCENES // VOGUE PARIS JUNE/JULY 2013 COVER SHOOT

See the cover of Vogue Paris June/July 2013 below:

Credits

Photographer: Mario Sorrenti
Models: Anja Rubik and Andreea Diaconu

NEW DESIGNER // HIBU. / #02 "YOUTH"

Bio

The young and recently launched Lisbon based fashion label HIBU. Co-developed by Marta Gonçalves and Gonçalo Páscoa, creates street wear that are not stuck just in one gender, combining deconstructive elements with functionality, comfort and a little bit of drama. 

About "YOUTH"

Gonçalo Páscoa,22-years-old HIBU. co-founder and designer, describs it:  “YOUTH was born out of melancholia out of the carefree feeling we used to have as kids… That feeling that allowed us to play and imagine beyond what others wanted or thought about us. We had no rules, no boundaries, only freedom to be whatever and whomever we felt like it. This collection is all about that, that freendom. It tries to showcase an effortless, adrogynous and comfortable style by deconstructing basics and having a sporty feel. The movie Lords of Dogtown also played a major role when it comes to esthetics because it sums up all of the above thanks to the coolest skaters that ruled back in the days. YOUTH is a celebration of freedom and style.”

BEHIND THE SCENES // KRIS VAN ASSCHE / S/S 2013

PETJA ZOREC // "2205985500000" / F/W 2013/2014

Petja not long ago described herself to Katja Horvat (Projekt 27) as an workaholic wo(man) with male Russian name, who is always ready for action. After knowing her in person i would add a strong personality with no double meanings, sincere, always positive and simple; she is one of few (sadly not that much) designers i adore in Slovenija and make a fashion (yes, i will use this word in this case) trip to Ljubljana more than a valuable reason.

At the beginning of this month (exactly 09 of April) during Phillips Fashion Week in Ljubljana (it was from 08 to 10 of April at Kino Šiška), she presented her last collection; a F/W 2013/2014 collection named "2205985500000".

"Starting point for the collection is the moment, when emotions overcome you; memories of the past about people, that you liked them. Memories of most unusual events that from unknown reasons always return in front of your eyes. Like the family portrait or the plaid which plush edge calmed you down before sleep, dishcloth on edge of a dining table, rests of yarns in the grandparents knitting room,...a moment, that doesn't have the connection with reality, but however it comes on plan next to certain trigger and it numbs us."

MOODBOARD

"This male collection marks tactile and arty prominent materials, that work softly and comfortably. Patterns are contrasting to themselves in silhouettes, because on one side they are showing rigorous men pieces and on the other playfulness of oversize sweaters and tracksuits. Yarn in the color of a fuchsia is as an accent showing the tender side of masculine gender. The collection is based on an emotionally mature male, who successfully combines the responsible side and the inner child part." - this is how described Petja the collection to me.

BEHIND THE SCENES PHOTOS