tedoré : Helmut Lang

Showing posts with label Helmut Lang. Show all posts

90´S FIT

Jeans are one of those fashion staples that are present in every person’s wardrobe (do you remember our "D Week"?), fashion-lover and non, for most men´s favourite pants to wear in almost every occasion, as though any other option it doesn´t exist. But how you can blame us, if these cotton-made garment is (most of them are) so comfortable and easy to mix-match from day to night looks, becoming to us like a second skin. I must admit that last few years I´ve change a bit this habit by reaching for other pant-options, and believe me guys, they are plenty of them, but once in a while it is a pure pleasure to slip in one of those 90´s-shaped jeans, comfortable, a bit loose, with a bit higher rise, working as a booty-accentuater, like this from Helmut Lang. It´s not a case that many women opt for men jeans too, afterall this is one of the first unisex garments.

The F/W 1997/1998 was Helmut Lang´s last collection presented in Paris, before he relocated the whole company from Vienna to New York in 1998, becoming the first fashion company to make a transcontinental move. The collection itself was not only a return into luxury, by reintroducing fine blended wools, silk and cashmeres, but also a debut of pleated skirts, funnel neck coats, silk-down coated duvet wraps and silk tulle, cummerbunds, marking the brand´s new style with made-to-measure finishes.

This resort collection remains in Lang codes, a conceptual minimalism defined by deconstructed trench coats turned, actually transformed into tops and skirts and paired with crisp-cotton shirts or slim-fit sweaters with different sleeve-cuts, not to mention the constant play with contrasts, like sweatshirts paired with elegant, cropped trousers, fine knits with a "rough" denim or in a lingerie-style lace top half-tucked into cargo pants. If you know Helmut Lang´s (designer) original aesthetic point of view, then you will know what is about; a casual/formal way of dressing way for 18 hours busy long work days.

HELMUT LANG: ARTIFACTS

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Under this project title Resurrection Vintage is presenting a collection of designer´s pieces from the 1990´s until his departure in 2005. Yep, it has been eleven years since this creative genius abandoned fashion to focus on his major love, art. So all Helmut Lang lovers mind the upcoming 15 November, because you will be able to purchase, online or in the RV boutiques in New York and Los Angeles, iconic rare runway pieces, like the metallic-flash shirt that opened his FW 1994 show.

other novelties...

helmut lang reversible coat

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90´S BACK

It has been a while since the brand Helmut Lang showed something official, meaning runway, lookbook or video. Talking about runway, the F/W 2014/2015 was the last runway show presented by the brand, that time still under Colovos duo as creative directors, who left the company straight-after. Andrew Rosen, the CEO of Theory and Helmut Lang decided to update or speaking in more business language, to reconstruct the company, the whole package, bringing this way the brand more into its roots, to the founders late 90´s period. The intro of this project was the relaunch of fragrances that Helmut itself introduced in the early 2000´s. The second step was to put Lang´s beloved Katayone Adeli as the one who will re-establish the whole ready-to-wear and accessories. This didn´t last long, because Adeli is no longer in this project, but is her team, who she trained.

The first official (published) result is this quite small collection, but rich of those famous 90´s, like a monochrome dressing, raw-edges and clean lines, the use of silk, especially on those minimalistic slip-dresses, not to mention denim pieces, wide pants and oversize outwear.

If Helmut Lang of S/S 2014 was about clean, flat and crisp fabrics, this time the Colovoses duo played hard with multiply knits, fuzzy mohair and teddy bear-ish fabrics. Texture in one word. The main color of the collection was white, which gives lightness to everything. Even the winter-layering (wool on wool) didn´t appear heavy, but very soft and airy. There were also tailored pieces in color blocks, like camel with red or white with black. The only print featured in some tunics, sleeveless tops and trousers, was a graphic photo-print of the surface of Mars. The edgy part (beside the red print) went to shoes; Helmut Lang is all into creepers for the F/W 2014/2015, so I will finally get an opportunity to wear mines next season.

/ click on "Read more" or on the title of this post to see all photos from the collection /

Which is the best ever piece during cold winter time? A nice, soft and with good quality sweater. A must! The one to warm you, make you a happy-easy going feeling. No itchy-stichy! no, no, no, no!! It must be a sort of your daily protector; the one that doesn´t make you even more trouble, but the one that will easy you any possible situation (you know which role a teddy bear got in our childhood? Ok, so the same role has the nice sweater...for us, older...pardon I mean grown ones :P).

I picked from most of web-shop sale offers around and pick my seven favorite ones. All of them have same things in common: to be possibly timeless (not just a season thing. I promised to myself to not do a season-buy mistake anymore, but to optate on something with a long lasting effect), soft, best possible materials (mostly wool with less poly-things) and most of them with a price tag lower of 300€.

FROM TOP TO RIIGHT

AR SRPLS wool blend military sweater

CLOSED cable-knit sweater

HELMUT LANG cropped front turtleneck

HELMUT LANG asymmetric rib turtleneck

YANG LI long knitted top

DAMIR DOMA kixi merino high neck perforated sweater

ISABEL MARANT ÉTOILE buckley long ribbed knit

STELLA McCARTNEY ribbed chunky-knit sweater

/ Main photo © te-dore.com /

COGNAC COAT

WEARING

ZARA coat (similar here, here and here)

HELMUT LANG leather jacket (similar here, here and here)

SOFT GOAT cashmere sweater

COS skinny jeans (smiliar here, here and here)

DIOR HOMME ankle boots

GIVENCHY nightingale leather bag

A debut "Outfit" post for the 2014...in my black-s with a touch of cognac; nooo, no drink here, neither drank I was (not really a big fan of anything alcoholic...maybe a glass of good wine time to time) ;) It´s the color of my Zara´s coat. The best color to be combined with blacks and whites; it gives you a bit joy to darker colors and it calms down the brightness of the white. A classic one.

Yesterday the fashion caravan started with menswear collections in London. Some reports will come in next few posts. The new year barely started, I already feel all thrills and excitements of what will come.

HELMUT LANG PRE-FALL 2014

When we think about Helmut Lang are words like clean, minimal and essential the first that overcome to our minds. And we are never wrong, because it´s brands dna that continues year by year. The pre-fall 2014 is not an exception. Nicole and Michael Colovos made a collection based on layering of essential wardrobe pieces as are chunky cotton knits, coated linen blazers or the leather one, structured tanks and sweatshirts or a fabulous oversize perfecto leather jacket. The styling works more than perfectly and all layering is made tactfully and with a big dose of sense; never over done or too heavy. The final touch of the whole picture are made with great oxford shoes constructed from perforated leather and open back to make a sophisticated slip-on effect. Last but not least, those simple-shaped bags, perfect companions for our day to night adventures.

I must to admit that this collection is one of my favorite made by duo Colovos for Helmut Lang. This is a simple lesson to all of us on how to dress on daily basis…pure, modern, simple and elegant.

/ click on "Read more" to see all looks of this pre-fall collection /

The return of the 90´s, when Helmut Lang´s aesthetic (minimalism)was on the top of fashion industry, is the first feeling that you get after you saw the latest work by the Colovos duo (Nicole and Michael Colovos). After they take a helm of the brand until today, this collection is the more inspired of Lang´s heritage, his minimalist signature (like Lang´s so favorite pure pink color). Everything was putted on a higher level with adding some elements, inspired from works of the contemporary artist Wade Guyton (Guyton´s lines on strapless dress for example).

Unstructured jackets (yes, no shoulder pads under), lots of muscle tees, boxy bustiers, skirts and dresses and never without their perfect pants. Simple, but nice shoes and (back again) lots of bags. An old-new Lang is here…finally! Welcome back!

/ click on "Read more" to see the entire collection /

Once they had somehow a "miserable“ role, to be just a garment accompanying you to the gym or any other possible sport activities. To cover you. They were and still are one of basic clothing elements for skateboarders. Nowadays, especially in this upcoming Fall/Winter 2013/2014 season, they reach a position like a status garment. A piece that goes or you could match with anything possible and imaginable, day to night. It´s unisex. It could be fitted, oversized, glittered, with prints, made by any-possible material…I bet you have almost one piece in your wardrobe!?

To be sincere, I re-discovered this simple, basic piece like two years ago and was Love…again and forever.

Well, here I listed 22 of my favorite (until today) sweatshirts available around different e-shops. For anyone, any type, any taste…male or female. Just click on "Read more" and pick your favorite one! Which one is your favorite?