tedoré : Lookbook

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LOEWE F/W 2016/2017 LOOKBOOK

Before I focus/analyse or simply write my point of view of the F/W 2016/2017collection, Loewe released the lookbook, shot by Jamie Hawkesworth and featuring Mayka Merino, Natalia Westling and Vittoria Ceretti.

Not roll your eyes now, please. I know that am kind-a-late to post any resort 2016 collection. I must admit it that I totally forgot about this one, really lovely and wearable by Isabel Marant. One almost lost "opportunity" makes a new one, so I thought why not to post it, without any review, but to making it as a great inspiration for the upcoming warmer season. Or you can use it as a “Marant-piece-detector” for your wish lit.

Earth colors are a must and with his poetic shapes, a trademark of Christophe Lemaire collections. The S/S 2014 menswear is made by his timeless garments in washed-black cotton, inspired by Vietcong, navy blue, light grey, some white´s and pastels to pop a bit the collection, molded into retro-influenced tailoring, like pleated pants and suit made from a Japanese wool.

Lemaire´s man has the same logic line as woman´s, a quite elegance, impeccable design, best-quality material and perfectly-made garments with no date, not a trend victim, timeless. I am so into this logic in the last period...invest in less, but with a hight quality level. Trends pass very fast, the elegenance, a true one, remains and lasts forever.

/ click on "Read more" to see the entire collection /

Inspired by a fusion of Thomas Ruff´s double exposure photography and by the E.P Thomspon´s “The making of Englishworking class”, the S/S 2014 collection for Heohwan Simulation by the Korean born and Royal College of Arts in 2010 graduated designer Hwan Heo, explored the ladylike side of the streetwear. Inspired by the 1950 and 1980 and translated into escalated silhouettes, lots of graphic prints, without losing any femininity. The fresh color palette of navy, black on a “blank” white base, the aqua blue color, dust grey and pale yellow to calm down some stripe and floral patterns. The waist line, high neck and the round sunglasses of the 50´s meets the relaxed bomber, sportish parka and graphics of the streetwear from the 80´s. A great fusion of the past reinterpreted for a new, modern and clean present/future.

/ click on "Read more" too see the entire lookbook /

OOO Acne :) Why you always surprise me? :)) That´s good, because in positive way. The main point why i like you (Love you too) is that you never try hard to be in trend. You do not put all your forces just to be a mainstream brand, but you walk a non predictable* way with your own foot - Like you live in your own world. And i admire you, dear Acne, for that.

To be sincere, sometimes styling is a bit overdone for my taste...as in this cruise collection, but hey! That´s Acne too :) If i would ever pick your nickname, it would be an "Urban MMM"**.

Theyskens` Theory never impressed me by their innovative side*. Are they innovative? For my opinion not really. The brand always have good, minimal styling as so their pieces are. An everyday, sometimes a little grunge inspired look. The same story is for their Cruise (yeah, yeah...ok...resort :) ) 2014. Olivier Theyskens is trying to make in every his collection pieces that are (and they are) real essentials**.

I am quite speechless...well not because i am impressed...neither that i am disappointed...i juts have nothing to say. I feel i am in the middle zone for this; which generally is not a good thing. I guess is better to have a bad reaction rather that have none. It´s a good collection? Yes, it is...but it´s lovely not stunning! It´s Balenciaga? Yes, it is...but a déjà vu one. I do not want to go on the "Missing Ghesquière´s aesthetic" thing (well, i really do!!) and it is not that i do not give a chance to Wang (i do!). We are on round two for Balenciaga by Wang, but i do not see any improvements. I do not see Balenciaga as to be a visionary brand (maybe because Wang is not enough visionary ?). Ok...one positive point in all of this is that this Cruise (Resort) collection is really sell-able and there´s no doubts that Wang is a master in that.

Click on photos to see the true size.

Bio

Peridot London is a contemporary womenswear brand, which was founded in the autumn of 2009 by Rachel Wilson.
Collections offer a capsule wardrobe of sleek, versatile separates with a strong tailored aesthetic.

The brand is made for a woman who appreciates finely constructed, well thought-out garments with a timeless, sartorial quality. At Peridot London we believe in the importance of beautifully crafted pieces, garments with a high quality finish, precision of cut and detail, made in luxurious natural fabrics.

All collections are designed, pattern cut and sampled by an in house team in the Peridot London showroom on Baker Street. The brand uses carefully refined processes that draw inspiration from traditional tailoring techniques.

Bio

Charlie May is a young British womenswear designer, currently working and living in London.
Born in Devon, in the south of England, Charlie was raised on a farm and spent her childhood in the same family home. This has inspired her to draw inspiration from her surroundings and background, which leads her to the signature minimalist, androgynous style she has become known for.
She graduated from the University of the West of England in 2010 with a BA(hons) in Fashion Design, where she achieved the privilege of being selected for a place at Graduate Fashion Week.
Alongside studying, Charlie started her blog Girl a la Mode in 2008, this has become one of the UKs top fashion blogs and has since been featured in magazines such as Elle, Company, Grazia Italia, among others. Charlie also contributes bimonthly editorials to AOL’s My Daily.
In her final year of university Charlie worked on Louise Goldin's 2010 Spring/Summer collection.
After moving to London, she started working for Thomas Tait, assisting him for two seasons until pursuing her own label.
Having achieved her debut collection presentation for SS12 and successfully launching her label as a young British designer, she is now working on expanding her label and going into production with seasonal ready-to-wear collections.

SS 2013

Inspiration comes from an ice landscape, featuring the signature muted colour palette of white, nude and cool green with a play on textures, mixing silk, velvet, cotton and leather.
Her signature minimalism is ever present, with the inclusion of the classic white shirt and tailored must-to-have shirt dresses which the designer has become known for.