Showing posts with label Ermenegildo Zegna. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ermenegildo Zegna. Show all posts
LEATHER GLOVES
NOVELTIES #58
LEONARD COHEN has died yesterday
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Another icon and (not only) musical
visionary passed away this year. I am asking myself: "What´s happening in
his 2016?" Leonard Cohen was 82. A post on his official Facebook page said,
"It is with profound sorrow we report that legendary poet, songwriter and
artist, Leonard Cohen has passed away. We have lost one of music’s most revered
and prolific visionaries. A memorial will take place in Los Angeles at a later
date. The family requests privacy during their time of grief."
The music legend released his latest, 14th
album "You Want It Darker" just few weeks ago.
other novelties...
NOVELTIES #44
LEAVINGS
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They are in total four, three officials and one not yet, so it must be treated as a rumour. Everything started on February 1st (Monday morning) with Kering-owned Italian menswear brand Brioni who released a statement saying that they and designer Brendan Mullane had reached “a joint decision” with not to renew their working collaboration. Few hours later another menswear brand comes out with a similar novelty. The Italian-established and Paris-based Berluti said that its chief designer, Alessandro Sartori, was leaving the LVMH-owned men’s luxury label. Last words of the official announcement weren’t yet said when those classic speculation-talks started to spread out. The strongest one was about Sartori turning to Berluti´s rival house Ermenegildo Zegna after weeks of talk that its designer, Stefano Pilati, would be leaving the Italian luxury fashion house after three years at the helm. At the end was a speculation that turned into reality. Zegna has initially declined anything mentioned, but after few days confirmed Pilati´s consensual departure, but also Sartori´s position as a new artistic director (listed among novelties below). Last but not least and so far the most shocking (possible) leave comes from Céline, saying that after nearly-eight years at the French lux-brand, Phoebe Philo is looking to leave the company. If rumours become reality that would be a huge hit for Céline, after all she turned this formerly overlooked brand into a fashion-highness, not only in terms of position, but also as a massive influence in the fashion industry.
other novelties...
NOVELTIES #32
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Closer we are going to the launch-date, November 05, more details and images are revealed. This first major teaser includes sleeveless boyfriend tux jacket paired with harem-like pants, a pink bodycon dress and a black and white stripped outfit, enriched with characteristic Balmain gold buttons and paired with a short-fur jacket. Are you already counting days?
other novelties...
NOVELTIES #24
STEFANO PILATI leaves agnona
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Stefano Pilati is stepping down as a creative director of Agnona, so it will no longer design for the Zegna-owned Italian womenswear label. The S/S2016 collection that will be presented in September will be completed by the brand´s design team. Pilati on the other hand continues to be the head designer at Ermenegildo Zegna. Which are his real plans for the future; a possible eponymous brand?
other novelties...
LOOSE AND TAILORED
The menswear` S/S 2016 will be definitely characterized by one world – loose. This “trend” doesn´t affect Stefano Pilati´s man at Ermenegildo Zegna, because that´s actually his style. Pilati´s couture collection for the famous Italian menswear-fashion house, known mostly for tailoring suits, is since his arrival as a creative director five seasons ago becoming from collection to collection more and more Pilati; a mix of relaxed-loose, past elements with modern cuts and with a pinch of a hidden and not garish glamour. This time his masterfully done fluid tailoring is accompanied by boxy shirt jackets, volume trousers, flowing coats and blousons in greys, black and white colour palette, with some browns and the fifties-like gorgeous plaids, translated into jackets and overcoats that even Burberry can simply envy.
PILATI WARDROBE
The Ermenegildo Zegna S/S 2015 collection was made by Pilati, inspired from Pilati himself (sounds a bit odd, but it is that way), his past works (Ysl, Prada) and from 30´s intellectuals in pinstriped suits. Yes, his aesthetic was present in every piece; and here I am not only talking about his signature shapes, but also about the collection´s mood. Just mind how Pilati dresses himself and you will get the image of the collection. Half belted coats having that non-rigid, soft-bathrobe effect, loose cardigans, comfy carrot shaped trousers, that prefer to be turned up rather than hemmed (that´s a true joyeux de vivre! ), double-face coats to end with five final looks with unusual colour combinations, that reminded us his YSL time and the love for North Africa. Overall a collection composed by oversize, elongated and deconstructed pieces. Pilati´s Zegna is more youthful and fresh, without losing its famous elegance.
A COSMONAUT FUTURISM MEETS AN ENGLISH COUNTRYSIDE
Stefano Pilati second collection for Ermenegildo
Zegna (take a look to the first) is a harmonious one, composed with (at first sight) two different poles:
a cosmonaut futurism (he realized the collection with the help of an
astrophysicist and a professor of acoustic astronomy) and English countryside. Large and heavy parkas, quilted bombers and
shiny crocodile boots on one side and plaid and checks in earth-forest tones on
the other sides. A big accent to the
collection was on oversized coats, who´s Pilati is a big fan. There were plenty
of them; cocoon coats, pea coats and hooded ones. Everything made with super luxurious
materials, such as Japanese silk, cashmere, vicuña, crèpe de chine, kevlar and
tweed.
I HEART STEFANO PILATI
I always admired and still do Pilati´s aesthetic (what he did for YSL was always marvellous, decent and elegant). And what he did for the debut of collaboration with the Ermenegildo Zegna Group is superb, difficult to not get in Love with it! He made Zegna´s men contemporary but still with the perfect craftmenship standards (as Zegna is well known).
While the techno-industrial rhythm of Klas Åhlund's music, with breaks made of the song written and performed by Maxence Cyrin, set the appearances of trench coats and cabans, wonderful double-breasted jackets with two buttons, with cuffed sleeves made to create a color contrast (which is simple but nice detail, to soften the so called "formal look").
Welcome back Stefano...i heart you Pilati.
FASHION NEWS // STEFANO PILATI AT THE HELM OF ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA AND AGNONA
After several months of uncertainty following the end of his contract as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati arrives at the Zegna Group, from January 1, 2013, will assume the role of Head of design ofErmenegildo Zegna , with responsibility for fashion brand Ermenegildo Zegna and Couture collection, in addition to creative director Agnona , brand owned by Zegna since 1999.
An unexpected solution to a long history in the chat, which involved a sudden change of roles in some of the most prominent designers - as well as Pilati, Hedi Slimane who replaced Yves Saint Laurent, Raf Simons for Jil past Sander Dior, John Galliano still without an official role within a house.
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