DIOR HOMME SPRING 2014 PRE-COLLECTION

It does not happen quite often that any men´s brand has their pre-collection and if it does happen, it´s a true rarity. Dior Homme offered to us that portion of not-frequently-happens with their Spring 2014 pre-collection. The creative director, Kris Van Assche, made an homage to the abstract expressionist artist Jackson Pollock whose work can be seen in the collection´s three distinct themes: “Disappear Here” where you can see Pollock´s signature splashes of color that completely covered his canvasses, the “Stroke” motif, in which colorful brushstrokes seem to have been applied directly to the clothes and “Zero” that calls to mind the abstract compositions of constructivist painting. 

The result is a very unique  and modern, but still classic collection, where Dior Homme greatly balances the contemporary and timeless style.

/ Photos courtesy of Dior Homme /

CÉLINE RESORT 2014, FINALLY!

Guys...Yes! Here comes (finally) the time to see it! What? Well, after we saw Céline S/S 2014 collection, it´s finally time to see and show Céline Resort 2014! I guess you all remember news many magazines reported, when Céline didn´t want to make public their Resort 2014 (due copying their collections from fast fashion retailers...see for example here, here, here and here); all fashion journalists (mostly editors) and buyers were told to not talk about it and not show any possible photo, detail of the collection.

This ban is over! I made a post with all 30 looks with belonging details and all accessories including bags, shoes, jewelry and sunglasses.

Generally Resort (the same counts for pre-fall) collections are the ones made to make money, so  for selling more...so they need to be, look sell-able. Is this one from Céline too? Yes, it is.

 I simply Love it (well, exist any collection from Céline by Mrs. Philo that disappointed me? Nope :) ),very japan-martial art inspired with all belted trousers, tops, safari dresses, jumpsuit and coats. Oversize elements from wide shorts to long pants or judo-short-sleeved vest with contrasting of great menswear-inspired tailoring (a very Céline trademark). Lots of white, black and beige with some light blue, navy blue and lilac touch interpreted on materials like wool gabardine, technical satin crep, ramie, quilted cotton, python leather and organza. Two garments that surprised me a little in this collection, was quite big, mink and fox fur coat.

Shoes part is composed by flat sandals (this time no fur included), wedge sandals (open toes and criss-cross), heel sandals and (never to miss) skate slip-ons.

Big assortment of bags, mostly classics by Céline in same colors of the collection.

I already have my wish list...from wide trousers to wide shorts and leather flat (beige probably) sandals.

Ok, ok...no more talks...click read more and enjoy it! :)

ILARIA NISTRI RESORT 2014

A semi-dark mood for the Ilaria Nistri collection. A mixture of black, white and green prints of foggy, but not blurred landscape on ankle-length pants, short dresses, maxi skirts and cross-tops. The contrast of leather jackets (some with the possibility to unzip the sleeves), semi-short and long waistcoats and some leather details on slim fit pants and a bit boxy T-shirts, to give an edge and a bit of fierceness to the look. Nistri´s woman is playing with contrasts, matching soft (like silk for example) materials with rough ones (as denim or leather). The playful and a bit wild part comes with the adding of fringe vest-shawl.

/ Click on "Read more" to see the entire collection /

OIL + WATER

Already by the title you can expect a lot of contrasts and in the result you get them. Light and dark, but also hard and soft elements combined together work perfectly by bringing a modern, close to architectural collection, because based on the structure. The water factor is represented in a swimwear capsule and by all wave shaped patterns and those disk shaped embellishments.

The oil part is definitely embodied with the black micro neoprene, double bonded satin and different rubber patterns, cobalt, white, black, pastel pink and orange.

Water + Oil as elements do not mix well, actually not at all, but they work more than perfectly in this Dion Lee´s Resort 2014 collection.

/ click on "Read more" to take a look on the entire collection /

DISTURBED WORKWEAR

J.W. Anderson once admitted that he is obsessed with Japanese minimalism. Well there is no surprise why he used the cover-uncover Japanese technique as the main inspiration in his last collection (and not only - a bit here and a bit here), Resort 2014, described by him as the look of the "disturbed workwear". Elements that confirm this are knife pleated skirt, Möbius banding* and oversized trousers, all mixed into something harmonious, soft (clothed) and with an acquisition of natural-fluid body gesture. As usual (quite a constant in his few last collections) he used mainly monochrome palette, black, red, pure white and nude, to obtain a sort of a clinical feeling.

I am quite impressed in what direction J.W. Anderson is evolving his brand, modern and mature with a playful vibe for a woman that likes to play with formality, but in the freshest way. A great match of "utilitarianism meets a candid Japan".

/ click on "Read more" to see the entire collection /

STRONG, SIMPLE AND BEAUTIFUL

Strong, sculptural but simple, with an athletic mix-to Asian-inspired vibe and overall chic-ness, this is how I could in most short way describe Ellery´s Resort 2014. From wide and a bit cropped pajama pants, short-boxy leather shorts and cropped tops to exquisite prints with patterns inspired by Kim Ellery´s mother wedding. It is quite difficult to write while you just want to sit down and stare to this beautiful collection. There are no need to add more words, because I guess it´s quite enough to see sparkle in the eyes after you look on it. Is there also a need to say that I want some pieces from this collection in my wardrobe? 
Ellery, you got me!

/ click "Read more" to see the entire collection /

ETIENNE DERŒUX RESORT 2014 OPPULENCY

Where the simplicity is playing with great cuts and nice materials, there´s a home of Etienne Derœux ´s design.
His aesthetic is into making street wear-inspired garments with technically complexity and their timeless mark.

His collections are entirely made in France with a great partnership with the country’s best ateliers, to achieve the best of the best product. That is also confirmed with the fact, that every collection is a limited edition.

Resort 2014 by Etienne Derœux is soft, pure, clean and limpid. Mostly in pale white with some blurred grey touch. The cherry on the top are nice sandals styled with long socks.

/ click on "Read more" to take a look on the whole collection. Click on each image to see it in bigger size /

RESORT 2014 TREND REPORTS - CROPPED TOP

Exposed belly was a part of the S/S 2013 season and this is continuing in the Resort 2014 collections too. But there is a but! Cropped tops with a belly out (showing your skin) is, to be sincere and tasteful, suitable for young women...the one in good shape (if it´s trendy and you do not have that type of body, it doesn´t mean that you must wear it, but find a perfect match for your body type in the whole clothing range). Well, Resort 2014 is giving a variation of the cropped top as part of layering, so now suitable also for older ladies (but I cannot repeat the same thing with the body shape again...as I did in the line before? And we are not into discrimination, but different clothes on different types...just be yourself and build your own style with a good sense of auto-criticism). 

Click on "Read more" to see the selection of 14 designers and their proposals.
So crop, crop, crop! :)

FORMAL, INFORMAL

Anne Valérie Hash is continuing to play with formality, informality and combos with them; like cutting clothes in a way that came across as shrugged on and easy, but then elaborating (upgrade) them with, for example various kinds of delicate laces.
The designer has a real talent for mishmashing dressed-up/dressed-down categories, and for introducing unexpected elements, as in a pair of asymmetric, mannish trousers.

RESORT 2014 TREND REPORTS - BAGGY PANTS

Skinny pants are not that over, it is just come time to optate for more relaxing pants (the resort 2014 was a whole tribute to relaxed outfits and garments). The ones with long slung and ultra relaxed shape...yeah, yeah, the baggy trousers! Acne, Chloé,...to Mr. Wang. All got it! Would you too?
Well, a big no for people with no high (will make you smaller even more).

/ click on "Read more" to see some of designer´s proposal /

TIMELESS AND ANDROGYNOUS

Less color more geometric prints seen on shirts, T-shirts, overcoats and ankle length trousers (quite same prints we saw in the S/S2014 menswear collection). Neil Barrett´s Resort 2014 collection is built with harmonious alternations between slimmer and wider volumes.
A nice "package" of timeless and androgynous aesthetic.

NORTHERN EUROPE GIRL MEETS EAST

Ter et Bantine is known for combining masculine and feminine. Resort 2014 definitely went on more girlie side of the brand. Clean lines and experimentation with materials, like: matching of reptile leather with satin or the tridimensional surfaces with very light plays on colors. A sort of a Northern Europe girl meets the East with Japanese elements of inspiration: the obi-effect belts, some shapes of jackets and trousers.

DISPROPORTIONATE SHAPE FOR MMM RESORT 2014

“A disproportionate shape” with “stripped-back” volume is how the Maison Martin Margiela press notes described the resort 2014. Classic tailored silhouettes with some twists, like: a transparent bomber jacket worn with a skirt that looked like the bottom of a trench or a light powdery pink coat with embossed sleeves. That´s what I Love about this collection and MMM in general: they always have timeless pieces with edgy, different or (again) twisted side.

/ click on "Read more" to see the whole collection + click on image to see the larger version /

JEN KAO´S RESORT 2014

Jen Kao´s is one of my favorite Resort 2014 collection´s. Minimalist apron dresses and jackets, lots of white, leather and an exquisite print-s (on trousers, tops, dresses), a sort of homage to Jean-Michel Basquiat.
The cherry on the top of all are great wood-like small bags and clean but nice platform shoes. A perfect range of cool daily wear.

WHERE IS DAMIR DOMA?

Mornings are nice last days...every day’s sun heat makes you appreciate mornings even more. Because of the fresh air (called: "summer breeze").  While sipping slowly my morning coffee (not a big coffee consumer, but morning´s one are quite traditional and relaxing too) I generally check on internet what I "missed" in last 24 hours. One of most pleasant things is to check resort (I am still calling them cruise :)) 2014 collections (yeah, yeah...I do not miss men´s S/S2014 either).

Beside the fact that this Resort 2014 is quite annoying (I find most brands have the same look, don´t you think?)...I was literally shocked. HMH, I saw Damir Duma’s resort 2014 collection presented yesterday at Pitti´s W edition 12. The collection didn´t convince me for one, most important thing: I asked myself "Where is Damir Doma??". I only see so mild reflections of Doma´s style design with lots of basic elements from Helmut Lang, mixed with some transparency effects, shapes and prints in Stella McCartney´s style and cut out tops (tank tops) inspired from Cushnie et Ochs.

Ok, ok...I know that collections must sell, but why lost your identity? Is individualism is losing it´s primary meaning: be yourself, no matter what and who.

I would really Love to see (not that) old Doma back, with his mystical, fluid-shapes and oriental inspirations. I put  all my hopes (and beliefs)  in his S/S2014.

JACOB BIRGE: FREEDOM IS EVERYTHING FOR ME. THIS IS THE ONLY VALUE I WOULD BE ABLE TO KILL FOR

People is a new category in my blog. This place is dedicated to different "shades" of people, most of them from fashion business, with own and distinctive sense of style, but most of all strong personalities and individualism. The whole concept is based on a Q&A made in two parts. The first part named "Personal"  is made by more personal, some more intimate questions to get a closer, inner image of the person. The second part named "Work" is dedicated to the work (mostly last work), professional side of the presentee.

PERSONAL

It´s an honour for me to start this new project of te-dore.com  with Jacob Birge, a creative force working in territory of fashion, music and design. He constantly pushes and ruins the boundaries of mixed miedia.

After having graduated from the Edinburgh College of Fashion in 2012, his graduate collection was shown in Slang Magazine, Vogue, Not Just a Label, I Heart and Trendland.
Birge´s creative point of view has been made by his mixed education: at the beginning, before moving to Edinburgh he studied at Teko Design College in Denmark (he gained a secondary degree) and an MA in Chemistry at the University of Science and Technology in Cracov year 2008.

This knowledge base influenced designer´s work to became more intellectual in his work compared to other student´s graduate collections and post graduation.

Let´s discover what a raising star in the fashion system (and not only), a hard worker and multi talented Jacob Birge has revealed to me...

- Who is Jacob Birge?

Jacob Birge is a fashion designer, music producer, and film and visual installation maker based in the UK. His style is characterized by dark mood, and futuristic climate of his vision. Birge within his brand combines fashion with technology by using hi- tech fabrics, modern silhouettes, and using new media in order to present his point of view.

 - What is your current state of mind?

The world is a rotten place where, everybody trying to survive and people are able doing everything to achieve that. Sad but this is how I see things now.

- What is your motto?

Contradictions do not exist. Whenever you think you are facing a contradiction, check your premises. You will find that one of them is wrong. Ayn Rand

- What is your obsession?

My work and my company.

- Your last dream (during sleeping :) )?

 I was flying around the desert - I still remember the feeling I had then.

- What is your best quality and what is your biggest weakness?

My best quality is to deliver no matter what circumstances are on my way, as well I think I can see the “whole picture” instead of stuck with small problems. Biggest weakness - Sometimes I am an ignorant in a grammar - I prefer the situation, more than a description of the situation.

- Which talent would you most like to have?

I would like to think more positively about things - I never fulfill and satisfied - which sometimes is a good thing.

- What would you change about yourself?

Few bits which I inherited from my parents - and I would like to look like (Brad Pitt) and be like Tyler Durden from Fighclub.  

- What the word freedom means to you?

Everything - this is the only value I would be able to kill for.

- In what occasion do you lie?

I lie when I have to reach my goal - when I judge the lie will not have a significant impact on anybody and It will let me do my work. But I have a strong moral spine – I believe being an ambitious adult you cannot be a spotlessly clean– but the most important thing is to be aware that you lie - this is still very moral - the rotten part is when you lie and you believe you do not.

- What turns you into become a fashion designer?

In a first stage I wanted to be different that my peers and impressed girls, but afterwards I discover the depth in it – they're not a better feeling in the world – when you imagine something , then you extract it and make it live and people show positive feelings about your work without any external factors. That adds value to the world and make myself a better person. Początek formularza

- What inspires you and what distracts you (turn you off) creatively?

I can be inspired by many things, but I believe in combination of ideas and research - a lot of inspirations going from modern fashion. But it is always about a human, about strong, competent, beautiful human with dignity and awareness - unfortunately I have not met them too often.

 What distract me from creativity - LOVE .

- A best and the worst part of your work process?

The best as I mentioned before - when from the picture in your head things starts to be real - you can touch them, you can feel them, you can wear them. The worst bit - dealing with a legal stuff, business side of the company. I can do that but it is hard to enjoy.

- What do you think of the fashion system?

This is not a sport - not the best one wins - somebody will win  and sometimes the real reason of this winning is not fair. But I still believe the good will win in the end, that’s makes me drive

- Top 3 designers?
Phoebe Philo, Nicolas Ghesquière, Proenza Schouler.

- What about new way of communication, like blogging?
This is a sign of our time - people find ways of communicating and this is great. The dark side of the freedom we were giving is fact that is too much everything

- Do you follow any blog?
No particulary one - I am follow fashion - so style.com and vogue.com - the biggest blogs in the world.

- Top 3 magazines?
Self Service, Vogue, Purple.

- What is your personal style and who do you mostly wear?

My personal style I called modern classic - simple, fit, with a personal twist - mostly black . I usually  wear Jacob Birge Vision - older men’s collection - I love clothes, and I try to express my statement through them - so wearing your own creations make the sharpest picture.  

- Best movie, track, album, exhibition or event?

Movie : Fighclub,  Track : Arch Carrier (Autechre), Event: Autechre live, Exibition: TATE Modern –everything they showcase.

WORK

Jacob Birge Vision is a forward thinking fashion brand, specializing in the high-end, modern womenswear and accessories. Established in September 2012.
What makes the brand innovative is the fact, that it combines not only fashion, but also multidiscipline media such as sound design, visual installations, fashion films and an unconventional use of hi-tech fabrics ana materials, in order to present a clear and personal vision.

They think about the women abd her needs in an ultramodern way.

- How would you describe your aesthetic as a designer?

Modern classic - our clothes consist only necessary element in order to create our women - bold colours displayed on a black or white canvas. Chic, sexy, bold, brave, ULTRAMODERN.  Hard vs Soft, Light vs Dark, Soft vs Harsh, Long vs Soft, Oversize vs Tight, Femininity vs Muscularity - as a brand we like to conflict the extremes.

- Does "Jacob Birge Vision" has a signature look? And if yes, could you please describe it? What makes your brand, aesthetic unique?

I believe my signature is a certain  mood - quite dark, like a visual representation of the music which I compose - glitch, IDM, dark ambient. Also my signature is a certain sequence of colours - where very strong colours are layered on monochrome shades. As a signature within the particular outfit I have to point the oversized dropped shoulder  jacket - very  masculine and strong. Jacob Birge Vision is focused on technology and hi-tech fabrics and materials, fashion together with a fashion movie and sound design makes the brand unique .

- You are known, that you like combine fashion with multidiscipline media. Why is that? Is this a substitution for a runway show? Tell me more about it.

The combination of multidiscipline media has its roots in my general interest - I am quite geeky in terms of computers - my mum is an IT programmer, so computers were always around me. When I was young I wanted to be a musician - but I was not gifted to play any instruments. Eventually I learned how to write music on computer - using it as a multi orchestral instrument - with endless opportunities. Similar story happened to making movies -I just have learned some editing programs - and self studying about footage recording and stuff. Also I know graphic programs, so the whole branding is created by me in person. As well our website is designed and executed by me.  So different medias which allowed  to express and communicate our vision are naturally brought as a significant part of our DNA. Our AW 2013 was presented as a cinema screening, which was a part of our show in London during  LFW in February 2013. We consider to use similar medium to showcased our work in the future.

- Tell me about your last collection, Resort 2014? What is the red line of the collection?

Jacob Birge Vision Resort 2014 collection is monochrome  - transition between black A/W 2013 and white S/S 2014. Our continuous research within technology lead us to get inspiration from a microchip  and a computer integrated circuit. The structure and patterns from the microchip were translated into a fashion collection displayed on the monochrome clothes. The collection contains leather tight fit dresses, tops, skirts as well digitally printed patterns on the silk. The silhouettes refer to a woman’s body shape - tight and sexy with an open back or front. The collection reflects a core element of Jacob Birge Vision DNA - structure, extremes and beauty. The Resort 2014 girl is a modern Rock chic with a sports twist.  / see the moodboard (first photo below) /

- Your favorite piece from that collection?

I guess the white leather dress with a handmade hole pattern - it is sexy, well fitted with a personal touch. 

/ click on the each image of the Resort 2014 collection to see it in bigger version /

- Any project to do a menswear too?

I used to do menswear when I started - I was doing men’s clothes for years - mostly for myself. I have designed 2 Mens collection - one of them won a fashion contest called fashion in 2008, which opens for me a door to a fashion world in a way. So yeah I will definitely will do menswear in the future – at the moment men’s body does not really inspire me and it is not about me anymore - but yeah definitely in the future. My clothes are quite masculine anyway.

- What´s next for "Jacob Birge Vision"?

I am going to  Paris to Who is Next trade show to see the industry from inside. Currently I am working on the SS 2014 for September - I know more or less how it is going to looks like, but I have to develop it more.  So yeah, we will see what live brings, but I will keep  adding value to the world – I hope that means something not only for me. 

Take a look on Resort 2014 campaign photos: