tedoré : Costume National

Showing posts with label Costume National. Show all posts

TAILORING MEETS SPORTSWEAR

Contrasting masculine and feminine by mixing tailoring with more casual-sporty shapes isn´t unknown for Costume National and the F/W 2014/2015 is all about that; actually the upgraded version. Ennio Capasa showed us floor-length military-inspired coats, jogging pants paired with double-breasted tuxedo jackets, fur coats, light-grey flannel jogging trousers paired with turtle neck tops and a fabulous silk evening gown with a tuxedo-collar satin revers worn over slim cropped pants and platform version of brogues. A lux version of a great Italian tailoring that meets the lightness of the sportswear.

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After 23 years of presenting his women´s Costume National collection in Paris, Ennio Capasa returned to Milan. The under construction feeling I get, may be referred to the place, where the venue happened, but also to the collection he presented.

“I constructed this collection by freely disassembling and reassembling patterns to give each piece a sense of ease,” said the designer in his show notes. And he does it. There were a lots of space uncovered between each pieces. Outfits, in designers favorite color palette as black, white with some acid yellow, cobalt blue and shimmering silver, were composed by jackets, gilets (some anchored by only a single strap), A-lines (to the ankle) skirts and cropped trousers. Whole vibe was loose, more and less relaxed as de-construction/re-construction feeling can produce, by giving to each piece a possibility to breathe by itself.

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