THE DINNER PARTY

Rodebjer is one of those brands who really loves women and consequently knows in what kind of clothes the women want to live, work, feel free and empowered at the same time, after all the head of the brand is a woman, Carin Rodebjer, which, I guess, explains a lot of it. It was really a matter of time when the major source of inspiration would be Judy Chicago´s work and by work a very representative one, “The Dinner Party”. If you never heard of it, I will try to describe it in few lines. This art-installation is an important icon of 1970s feminist art and a milestone in twentieth-century art. It comprises a massive ceremonial banquet, arranged on a triangular table with a total of 39 place settings, each commemorating an important woman from history, like Sacajawea, Sojourner Truth, Eleanor of Aquitaine, Empress Theodora of Byzantium, Virginia Woolf, Susan B. Anthony, and Georgia O'Keeffe among others. The settings consist of embroidered runners, gold chalices and utensils, and china-painted porcelain plates with raised central motifs that are based on vulvar and butterfly forms and rendered in styles appropriate to the individual women being honoured.

VERSATILITY

Carine Rodebjer`s main goal for her resort 2016 was to make a practical collection, with garments that every woman can use in the urban life, office included, or why not, at the beach. Versatility can be easily the key word. Pieces like wide-leg trousers in silk, wrap tops and dresses, kimono coat, wide knits and caftan dresses in plain-basic colours, like black, navy, white and grey, or in more bold prints are more than confirming that.  There is a great balance between the easiness and looseness, without overdoing it and still maintaining the elegant and sophisticated note. Now it´s just your turn to decide where to be, in the city or at the beach. 

URBAN NOMAD

…and totally chic. These three descriptive objectives totally collide with the concept of the S/S 2015 Rodebjer collection. Carin made 26 outfits in her well known comfort-slouchy silhouette; drooping silk separated mostly monochromatic in black, white and pink, tribal cotton-jacquard pieces, oversize knits worn over cropped pants or culottes, lots of fringes and some ruffles, pencil skirts to end with a pleated faux leather and with transparent gauze-like evening pieces. 

MB NEW YORK FASHION WEEK PART 01

The big apple bi annual fashion event is IN his 5th power gear already, but I hope with a less winter-cold-snow vortex and more design-inspiring moments. There are three things that were in common till now for major designers that already presented their collection: layering, playing with textures and cocoon-ish shape for outwears. A tunic under the sleeveless top under the vest under the coat. Something like that. An onion-dressing effect we could say. Nothing new, but winter by winter this is more important and present in fashion due the global climate changes. You never know what to expect from the winter weather day by day: from abnormal warm day to a very cold-freezing one, to the snow, rain, wind...a result? You wear almost 3 and more top wear garments to "survive". It´s comfortable, but sometimes I feel like I am like a walking closet :)  But maybe I just feel that way ;)

Below you can see my favorite picks from the first part of the NY fashion week…if there will be a collection that I will like almost 75% I will made a full post of that. My new rule for less massy and stress fashion week’s days. 

Let´s start…

+ multi-layered looks +lots of elegant and intelligent outerwear 

+ the powder blue coat with shawl collar and unfinished seams (best piece)

+ Flat shoes created in collaboration with LD Tuttle

+ boxy cuts

+ foldover-sleeve coat (best piece of the collection)

+ silver cap-toed ankle boots (nice shoes)

+ debut designs for womenswear

+ gender mix

+ men jackets

+ layering

+ not into season pieces

+ fragments of Middle East (turkish carpet, Byzantine tapestries)

+ tech nylon and silvery gray faux fur

+ oversize bomber (best piece)

+ cool basics with a twist

+ cocoon-ish varisty jacket (my favorite piece)

+ heavy twill, soft leather and some luxury furs

+ inspired by Jean Gaumy's book Men at Sea

+ urban warior style (brand´s trademark)

+ denim garments

+ Honeywell boots (good for winter snow and rain)

+ earth-kind brand

+  sheer materials with a plastic sheen, quilted cotton and felted wool

+ white in winter

+ inspired by Seattle´s grunge with an add of MacGraw femininity

+ patchwork-rabbit fur coat

+ quilting and cozy textures

+ layering

+ great colors+patterns combinations

+ loads of great, cozy and dailywear pieces

+ best collection from my first part 

+ main role got the textures

+ leather pieces in collaboration with Andrew Marc (best pieces)

- lots of going on (messy feeling)

+ idea of sexual subjectivity was the main inspiration of the designer

+ slouchy and draped

+ menswear-inspired tailoring

+ nice layering

+ men´s shirting

+ adorable oversize blanket coats

+ polished

WHEN ELIEEN GRAY DISCOVERS MEXICO AT NIGHT

The terrace of the Maritime Hotel was the venue place of the third Rodjeber collection presentation in New York (Carine Rodebjer moved from Stockholm three years ago).

Interesting are the two main influences behind this S/S 2014 collection; first was Mexico in the winter (Carine´s trip last year) expressed through sequins mid-length skirts and details on dress, boxy tops and jacket. The second inspiration was an architect and modern pioneer, Elieen Gray, mostly seen in the prints that Carine made on her own.

Minimal lines as kimono shapes, floating blouses and some pajama-look ensembles with a color palette from black, dusty rose and cream to some accents of indigo and orange celebrates a Scandinavian woman with a new cosmopolitan vibe.  

/ click on "Read more" to see the entire collection /

My Closet / James Gillespie

"Sweden is an amazing country. Everyone is attractive, the grass is perfectly clipped, the government is leftist, everything is too good. It gets kind of boring after a while and turns into this sort of Pleasantville, which can make you uncomfortable."
Lars Andersson Black Sweater,
Stolen Hat,
Zara Shirt from Beacon's Closet,
Rodebjer Pants

"Lars Andersson is amazing. Just as a person, he's awesome, so it makes it so much better that he's making amazing things. He's just funny and has that zest for life. He's always excited about what he does and there's no industry glamour obsession behind him at all."
Lars Andersson Hooded Sweater,
Black Satin Cheap Monday Pants

"I usually only have one pair of shoes at a time because I wear them into the ground. The only reason I buy new shoes is because I can't physically walk in the ones I had before."
Rodebjer Pants,
Topman Shoes

"There's no more intense prison than New York. It really could be the worst prison ever, because it makes you think it's the only place that exists and gives you the idea that you can never move somewhere else. That's why I love the idea of being in the woods, because it puts you in a different set of boundaries and it makes you change your habits."
Rodebjer Sweater,
Black Satin Cheap Monday Pants,
Topman Shoes,
Bracelets made from string found in the "feather" district

James says of a Fever Ray show: "It was the best show I've ever seen in my life. She [singer Karin Dreijer Andersson] takes everything from my head and somehow makes it. If I could ever come close to doing that, it would be insane. I mean, she came out wearing a buffalo, and from that point, what do you do?"
Lars Andersson Scarf,
Zara Shirt from Beacon's Closet,
Rodebjer Pants


"I'm really inspired by the Sami Tribe that live in northern Norway and Finland. It's really similar to Native American culture in a lot of ways, northern Native American culture. They're the reindeer herders. Their religion, their way of the life and the way that they dress and think, everything links so closely to nature and its really amazing."
Lars Andersson Knit Vest,
Vintage Shirt,
Black Satin Cheap Monday Pants,
Topman Shoes


James is about to move to the woods of Oregon to write and record an album. "I'm a big fan of following whims, and this whim has been a year in the making. I really want to get this album written."
Rodebjer Navy Blue Jacket and Pants,
Lars Andersson Turtleneck Sweater

James' apartment is full of feathers - he and his roommate cover their shirts with feathers when they DJ.
Black Satin Cheap Monday Pants,
Feathers and Satin Ribbon added by James.

Lars Andersson Hooded Sweater,
Black Satin Cheap Monday Pants,
Topman Shoes

"If I could describe my stage persona, it would be if Merlin were a member of the Baader-Meinhof Gang or if David Bowie was a Finnish shaman."
Vintage Leather Jacket,
Zara Shirt from Beacon's Closet,
Rodebjer Pants

James is an avid supporter of Greenpeace and Amnesty International.
Rodebjer Jacket,
Vintage Flannel Shirt,
Black Satin Cheap Monday Pants,
Topman Shoes

Lars Andersson Black Sweater,
Stolen Hat,
Zara Shirt from Beacon's Closet,
Rodebjer Pants,
Topman Shoes,
Ring from Replay

"Rodebjer is really good at making things that fuse into your body.”
Rodebjer Navy Blue Jacket and Pants,
Lars Andersson Turtleneck Sweater

James quotes a Swedish writer, who once said: "If I weren't crazy, then I don't think I ever would have created everything I've created."
Lars Andersson Turtleneck Sweater,
Rodebjer Pants,
Bracelets made from string found in the "feather" district




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