NOVELTIES #60

a big MARGIELA retrospective is coming

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It´s been announced a very thrilling news that a comprehensive retrospective of one of the most "inspired from" designers, if not the most inspiring one (and sometimes too literally), a true design-icon of all time, but also the most invisible one, Martin Margiela, will happen at France´s Palais Galliera in March of 2018 (mark the date). It´s been already eight years since he departed from his eponymous fashion house, but his influencing design by mixing grunge techniques with a conceptual approach and sleek aesthetic remains so inspiring  and profound (and copied) as they ever were.  The exciting part of this upcoming major fashion-event is that the designer himself will be working on the exhibition with the director of the fashion museum, fashion historian and prolific curator Olivier Saillard.

Before that for those who want to see (and who doesn´t?) something made by this enigmatic and super-talented designer, there will be from March 31 all the way through August 27 an exhibition titled "Margiela-The Hermès Years" at the Antwerp´s MoMu museum, which will explore the all 12 collection he designed for the Parisian luxury house.  

other novelties...

CONTEMPORARY AND FIERCE ELEGANCE

Extreme contrasts merged together in the same collection seems to be a common way to build a collection for many creative directors lately, regardless if it´s womenswear or menswear. Kim Jones in his fifth year at the French lux house re-explored his childhood in Kenya and Botswana that was his main source of inspiration for his debut collection at the brand. This time he used a traditional detailing from safari jacket and reinterpreted it in various tailored pieces to build a collection where, yes, the Saharan shades are predominated, but the whole travel and exotic spirit metaphor is "chilled" by a touch of eccentric, punk-inspired elements, patterns included, to turn the whole luxury experience into a contemporary and fierce elegance. 

PRE-VIEW

The S/S 2017 womenswear show was, of course, a first-view of the S/S 2017 collection, while the set was the first-ever official preview (in-the-making) of the upcoming Louis Vuitton flagship on Place Vendôme, scheduled to open in 2017.

NOVELTIES #53

BJÖRK DIGITAL exhibition is coming to london

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After she has been touring around the world this year with her "Björk Digital", the Iceland artist announced on Tuesday that she is taking this virtual reality exhibition to the UK for its European premiere. The exhibition, described in a press release as a "private theatrical experience", inviting visitors to engage with her work through virtual reality technology, will be at Somerset House in London from September 1 until October 23.

Björk Digital includes the Icelandic artist’s various VR and interactive videos, such as the "Stonemilker" video, the "Black Lake" film, both made in collaboration with Andrew Thomas Huang, her "Mouth Mantra" video, and a VR video for "Notget"  that "presents Björk as a digital moth giantess transformed by stunning masks created by artist James Merry." In addition, as a part of this European premiere, Björk will also perform at London´s Royal Albert Hall on September 21.

other novelties...

PALM SPRINGS

louis vuitton palm springs backpack

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NOVELTIES #49

HERMÈS ready-to-wear update

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Hermès has produced pre-collections since 2004 but chosen not to show them to the press, until this summer, when the French luxury brand will have its first-ever pre-collection presentation, set to take place at the soon-to-be unveiled location in Paris on July 3, a day when city´s haute couture week starts. The presentation will have an intimate-approach with less than 100 people invited, press, top clients and family included and will feature pre-spring 2016 looks designed by women’s ready-to-wear artistic director Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski. 

other novelties...

NOVELTIES #42

THE ROW launches their first shoes collection

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The ten years old label is expanding in a major way; the first big move is their first footwear line, revealed today at The Row´s pre-fall 2016 presentation in New York. The collection, all made-in-Italy features seven sophisticated styles in various fabrications and colours for pre-fall . They will be priced from $850 to $1,350, excluding exotics, and will be sold at The Row’s existing retailers and at the brand’s retail stores from May this year.

The sisters’ duo has a plane to open a New York flagship in a townhouse at 17 East 71st Street, after the brand opened last year its first store, on Melrose Place in Los Angeles.

other novelties...

BLUSHES

louis vuitton s/s 2016

photographer ulrich knoblauch  

paris fashion week

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NOVELTIES #39

JACQUELINE DE RIBES exhibition

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Last Thursday the Metropolitan Museum of Art opened its doors to a "Jacqueline de Ribes: The Art of Style", anexhibition dedicated to French aristocrat Jacqueline de Ribes. Born in Paris in 1929, de Ribes was a muse to numerous haute couture designers and is seen by many people as the ultimate personification of Parisian elegance. She  also directed her own design business  from 1982 to 1995. The exhibit placed in the Anna Wintour Costume Center, features about 60 haute couture and ready-to-wear ensembles from the “The Last Queen of Paris”, once dubbed by designer Valentino Garavani, personal archive dated 1962 to the present.

"The exhibit features dramatic ball gowns, jumpsuits and other bold designs; many of which de Ribes played a part in creating. It was rare that she would purchase a haute couture piece without making several unique changes to it, and as guests travel through the exhibit, they can read more about the influence she had on designers and her significance in the design world." - noted Harold Koda,  the exhibit's curator.

This exhibition that runs through February 21 2016, features designers work including  the already mentioned Valentino Garavani,  Yves Saint Laurent, Madame Grè, Giorgio Armani, Pierre Balmain, Bill Blass, Marc Bohan for Dior, Roberto Cavalli, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Norma Kamali, Guy Laroche, Ralph Lauren, Emanuel Ungaro, Fernando Sanchez for Révillon Frères and some of Ribes' own designs. 

other novelties...

TOTEM FLORAL

Lately Louis Vuitton released a new collection of limited edition furniture and accessories, inspired by travel and luxury. One of the pieces is also this plant stand, created with the French designer Damien Langlois-Meurinne, inspired by the fashion house`s well-known Noé bag. A proper plant-spoil I would say.

/ image courtesy of louis vuitton /

NOVELTIES #17

vaccarello´s debut collection for VERSUS VERSACE

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We did say it many times and nothing has changed; actually fashion in its schedule-calendar things is getting crazier and crazier. Summer didn´t officially started yet, while many fashion houses are into their pre-fall 2016 season already. We are also one, max two steps away before the S/S2016 menswear´s collections will start. To get even more confused with all seasons and everything (the best way to know in which season are we now, is to look your weather situation) “helped us” Versace.  Few days ago the Italian fashion house showcased in London the F/W 2015/2016 collection for Versus Versace; the debut one by Anthony Vaccarello. In total 17 looks, three among them for men, full of Versace dna (and super-pleased that there are no logos and fluos).  You can take a look and even buy already the pieces from the collection on their main site.

other novelties...

WHEN THE PAST MEETS THE FUTURE

...or the vintage becoming new, fresh with technology updates and modern procedures. Nicolas is for his third LouisVuitton runway collection continuing, what he knows the best, being inventive with materials and cuts. Examples, like ribbed suits and soft pullovers stitched with lurex and with curvy, structured ripple-like hems, slip dresses and tunics fused with ton-on-ton laces, studded embroideries and the evening part made mostly of jacquards, are (re)confirming that. We never had any doubt about it.

NOVELTIES #08

THE SPIRIT OF TRAVEL

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This is the title of the new ad campaign that Louis Vuitton launched via social media. Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier in the French West Indies, features models Maartje Verhoef, Liya Kebede and Julia Nobis in a late 60´s vibe, straight from Ghesquière`s S/S 2015 collection. The big spotlight is on bags, from new one “Twist” to “Alma” and Epi leather in strawberry, turquoise and black.

The ad campaign is set to break in the upcoming Harper´s Bazaar UK, out on March 4^th.

other novelties...

giada taps GABRIELE COLANGELO as creative director

“wwd” and “w” magazine editors and alums remember JOHN FAIRCHILD

in the studio - J.W. ANDERSON

GWYNETH PALTROW announces investment in organic skincare line

new memoir from sonic youth co-founder KIM GORDON

KARL LAGERFELD to debut first couture collection for fendi

suzy menkes interviews MARC JACOBS

the GALLERIES you probably didn’t know about

DAVID BAILEY talks fashion, tribes and portraiture

is armani to blame for MADONNA´s fall off the brit awards stage?

NOVELTIES #05

VIKTOR & ROLF to halt ready-to-wear
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Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are leaving ready-to-wear collections, as already did Jean Paul Gaultier last season, to be focused more on haute couture, fragrances and licensed businesses. The decision was made jointly with majority shareholder OTB Group. Renzo Rosso, president of the OTB Group, said the move was “a strategic decision to position the Viktor & Rolf brand in the highest luxury segment of fashion.” After 14 years, the designers will present their last Fall/Winter 2015 womenswear collection this Paris fashion week, but will be absent from the runway.

other novelties...

backstage with LEE McQUEEN

inside “CR FASHION BOOK 6” with carine roitfeld

for japan’s VISVIM, old is the new new

OSCAR DE LA RENTA exhibit opens at scad

it’s official: new york will get its own MEN´S FASHION WEEK

ISSA names jamie o'hare creative director

LOUIS VUITTON launch the opening of series 2: past, present and future exhibition

KAROLIN WOLTER's Berlin Address Book

DARIA WERBOWY talks self-portraits, wigs, joan Didion and her new equipment campaign

BFC/VOGUE designer fashion fund shortlist

MADONNA’s new favorite designer on that matador bustier

COVETABLE

If there´s someone´s fault why (almost) everyone is re-making the 70´s, is definitely Ghesquère´s fault. With his arrival at Louis Vuitton, he changed the whole image of the French fashion house, including the brand´s silhouette; straight, long-line and flared, strongly influenced by the 70´s. For the 15 outfits collection, photographed by Juergen Teller, Nicolas continues, where he started and left with the summer 2015 collection, playing with materials. He offers us denim pieces, some with new geometrical cuts and leather inserts (seen also on tweed pieces), high-waist pants and blazer with tapestry-like patterns, leather coats with narrow shoulders, slim-knit turtlenecks and patchwork-dresses. This 70´s story was all together wrapped up with monogram print handbags, rigid box-clutches and pointy shoes.

PARISIENNE

The French luxury house S/S 2015 is what probably Eddie Sedgwidick would wear; a collection totally inspired by the 60´and th 70´s. There were all elements of that period present: flared short dresses with wide sleeves, wrap mini-skirts, high-waist pants, close-fitting knits, multi-pattern velvet suits, raw denim and tailored jackets with lower shoulders, paired with accessories like boots or ankle boots with a sculpture-like heel, maxi earrings and of course bags, big and small, that every of 48 looks have. Ghesquière reconfirmed his well-known fame as a master of mixing together different materials, this time leather, raw denim, jersey, satin, patent leather, metal, plastic, sequins, velvet, lace, wool and cotton. A welcome-back to Nicolas from his glory days (at Balenciaga).

THE STATEMENT EARRING

Cèline (left) versus Louis Vuitton (right). Who wins "this fight"? The funny thing is that if we look to both pieces with having in mind what the general image each fashion house has...then the Louis Vuitton´s piece looks more Céline-ish, due the fact that Phoebe´s Céline should be (or it is by hers words) more practical, clean and an invisible wardrobe...and Céline´s piece is more Vuitton-ish (is it?) because of the (visual) richness that at Vuitton till Ghesquiere´s arrival was always accentuated. I guess that any piece you choose as favourite one, you will get the spirit of the other one included.

At the end what counts is that the earring should be only one-ear-piece...as a statement one.

/ Original images courtesy of Harpers Bazaar /

LOUIS VUITTON RESORT 2015

Even if all glamour galore these past days happened in Cannes during the international film festival, few days ago Monaco took a title of a fashion-Mecca of the day. Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquière presented there the Resort 2015 collection. The front row included many of Nicolas friends/admirers, like Charlotte Gainsbourg, Ziyi Zhang, Jennifer Connely, etc. Many of them already carried the new LV pouch, “Le Petite Malle”.

The curtains in a see-through tent of the Place du Palais closed and moving images of the water flowing over rocks, made by the artist Ange Leccia, filled the runway. “It's Time to Wake Up” by La Femme started to play and all three hundred and fifty guests impatiently and inquisitively to see the first look to came out. Ghesquière continues to build “a wardrobe” for his LV woman, but he made it richer, with more playful vibe, compared to the F/W 2014/2015 collection. Collage-like looks included: embroidering laces, furs, cut-outs, knee-length skirts, leather jackets paired with jersey dresses, flaring trousers, sheer silk knits, printed pantsuits, metallic and bold colors to pop the black base. Yes the new LV woman with a revisited 70´s wardrobe likes to have fun and to feel free with her bare legs most of the time. It´s hard to not to. There are new shoes to show; gladiator sandal-boots that ends toward the knees. At the end I cannot forget to mention Le Petite Malle bag in gold with silver fringes or the red/white Twist. The first became already iconic.

/ click on "Read more" to see all image stills from the collection" /

LOUIS VUITTON BAGS BY GHESQUIÈRE

What do you think of new Louis Vuitton bags by Nicolas Ghesquière? I was nevere a big fan of their monochrome (still their best seller) bags...until came Nicolas, and change a bit my mind. Especially I find lovely these "Petite Malle" bags; hard-boxy case shapes, available in monogram version and also more "clean"-simple ones made of Vuitton´s Epi**leather in black, grey, yellow and red. Very adorable are also the ones rolled and still in monogram. A perfect add for your night garcon-ish look.

/ Photos courtesy of Louis Vuitton /

* probably not that much to own them...but at the end, you never know :P
** Epi is a type of leather line or products by Louis Vuitton. It is a dyed leather that has very good durability.

FASHION NEWS // SCANDALOUS LOUIS VUITTON

During Fashion Week F/W 2013/2014 in Paris, Louis Vuitton scandalized audiences with his latest video, in which some models assume the role of prostitutes. Feminist movements in the country condemned the video and start strong public opposition to its broadcasting. 

Directed by: James Lima