THE CAPE

 

    ©tedoré

What is the history behind this seemingly simple piece of clothing draped over the shoulders to offer protection without the complexity of sleeves? How long has this garment been around, and what was its original purpose? Pinpointing its origins is challenging due to the paucity of documentation.

In the early days of the Renaissance, capes were attached to women's collars and later evolved into dignified attire. For instance, Queen Elizabeth I was noted for wearing long, ornate capes to shield her shoes from getting wet. During the Victorian era, capes became more in vogue among women than men, often appearing in scarlet red and the iconic hooded cardinal cape worn by esteemed women. They became so widespread that they were incorporated into bridal ensembles and became an integral part of the well-known story of Little Red Riding Hood.

STRONG AND SOFT

Gabriela Hearst combines past-like, not really retro, with modern shapes, as material and patterns too, achieving this way that strong-soft contrast in her collections. Below the knee flared skirts, floor-length pants, demure dresses with some see-through sheerness, cocoon cashmere coats and micro-plaid trench-coat, not to mention all evening ensembles, like an ivory tea-length dress with short sleeves or silk camisoles, are the Resort 2017 elements  for a modern Hearst woman, who is a business one, but feminine and romantic too.  A sort of “for every occasion” dressing, where you can find also pieces with strong graphic patterns on fluid and/or soft materials, like a sweater and skirt with blue, red and white stripes.

ONE YEAR

Hearst with this F/W collection celebrates a one year after launching her eponymous label, marked by luxurious fabrics and polished design that never look flat or annoying. The best way to do it is to collaborate, back again, with her family ranch in Uruguay, who made all chunky tweeds and slouchy light-yarned yak sweaters that matched perfectly with everything, especially with faded and distressed denim or waxed cotton. There was some geometric playing seen on a lovely shearling cape and on below the knee length suede skirt, not to mention stripes, in combination with polka-dots for a silk shirty-dress and vertical, almost ethnic-ones on organza dress and a shirt made from the same material. Beside the chaste-sheering, bias-cut 30´s-like dresses gave that extra feminine touch to the collection.