LA COLLECTION DE PARIS


The all glamour of the 80´s, especially the dressing-part that we are used to see on photographs portrayed by big names like Guy Bourdin and Helmut Newton, were vivid and reinterpreted in best possible way by Hedi Slimane on his last Saint Laurent fashion show. I will not avoid, but will literally skip the theme about his (for many) questionable legacy at Saint Laurent and departure from the brand, but especially two major and potent facts may give you the answer that you/we are wrong; he totally changed the whole vision-package and not only at the French house. He introduced the point of look-play and made it primordial, instead of (re)inventing something, which become a true hype during last seasons. Secondly and probably the most important thing, especially to conglomerate owners, is that his Saint Laurent sell and really well. Now let´s go spread some words about his power-dressing collection, the one that is more couture than a regular prêt-à-porter. The stiletto pumps paired with sheer black tights were present through the whole collection and although they were not really a true 80´s shoe (originally introduced in the 1930´s), actually during that time they almost disappeared, but were a good choice for all the tight-fit dresses, emphasizing this way the sexiness of long legs. Almost minimal bottom, except for few puffed skirts, was juxtaposition to the volume and blink-almighty top-part; flourishing side-bows, fur coats with exaggerated shoulders, loads of crystals, sequins, metal flakes, metal rings and ruffles.
The first and the last collection are with no doubts my favourite made by him for the French fashion house and despite all in-between that I might not be a true fan of, I must admit that he is one of the few that makes a difference everywhere he goes, as he did it for Dior Homme in the past, he did it as well for Saint Laurent. That´s more than a talent.






































/ original images and video courtesy of saint laurent /

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