Showing posts with label Aquilano e Rimondi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Aquilano e Rimondi. Show all posts

MILAN FASHION WEEK F/W 2014/2015


Italian´s F/W 2014/2015 was a bit different from what we saw in New York or London; in major cases more baroque*, much more sheer-see through elements **, the length of skirt was shorter in Milan*** and Italian designers really like to "invest" a big part of their collection to dresses****.

Here is my best of the rest; sounds a bit underestimated say it in that way, but it´s far from the reality. Garments and looks that I found inspiring, interesting and good to be minded for the next year´s winter. 


+ inspired by a metamorphosis of nature and woman
+ loads of handwork
+ socks with sandals


+ inspired by Swiss writer Annemarie Schwarzenbach’s androgynous style and travels throughout Asia
+ compositions of men´s wear and military fabrics with an add of exotic prints and crystal embellishments 
+  lovely flat shoes


+ inspired by Luchino Visconti and Art Dec
+ pointy flats



+ firs Bally collection by Pablo Coppola as a design director
+ minimal hardwear on all bags
rounded-toe ankle boot and pointy pumps done in velvet, calf hair and a smooth shiny leather
+ ready-to-wear designed by Alexandre Mattiussi
+ chic dailywear


+ short dresses and slim tailoring
Reinterpreting traditional Asian dresses


+ dresses with a cut lean torso
+ softness of garments in contrast of geometry crafted surface


+ inspired by Native American and Inuit cultures 
+ savage chic
+ Navajo-inspired knit pattern



+ inspired by Luc Besson’s “Nikita”
+ mixing masculine and feminine elements
+ great tailoring in the whole collection




+ a mix of sport and sophistication, no period references
+ coats graphically patched together like camouflage
mini-Karl Bag Bug done in three kinds of fur


+ functional chic clothes, with a dose of glamour
+ new, unstructured bag



+ inspired by the kinetic creations of Israeli artist Yaacov Agam
+ playing with a Space Age motif (neoprene outfits, white rubber buckles )


+ inspired by the Florentine Renaissance’s artistic patrimony
multilayered silhouettes


+ rainbow-shaded Lurex
+ black coats with swirling embellishments reminiscent of Pierre Soulages paintings


+ an Anglo-Scottish approach
urban sophistication




Intricate patterns remained the heart of the line
+ metallic jacquards done in beautiful paintbrush effects inspired by Gerhard Richter’s work
more total looks





+ inspired by Charlotte Rampling 
+ slightly androgynous, but still sexy with military references
+ playing with contrasts




+ references to German avant-garde culture 
+ plenty of color and sheer



+ a classic luxury, but also modern
blanket cape with leather trim
+ no pants, but skirts and dresses



python skin and leopard prints
+ military and equestrian references
+ fabric blocking
+ prints inspired by Jackson Pollock and Mark Rothko




comfortable yet luxurious constructed garments
bowling bags with double pockets and retro zips
a shopping bag with saddle lines
+ ballerina shoes with metallic tongues reminiscent of bedroom slippers



+ leather and tweed, Prince of Wales plaids, herringbone 
+ a classic, but modern dailywear


Italians are known for that
** you still got a warm-thick coat to wear it with; it´s winter by the way ;)
*** in most cases above the knee 
**** evening wear explosion here

Aquilano e Rimondi S/S 2010 / MFW / Day four

Italians do it better — exquisite fabrics, that is. Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi certainly followed that notion in their sumptuous collection. It was filled with opulent Italian brocades that channeled Monet, Gaudi and the Orient, developed exclusively for the designers via old and forgotten techniques. They came in deep jewel tones; some were laminated with gold and silver, and others, as in the white-collared shirtdress, worked in a subtle patchwork form. The motifs — from Majolica tile flowers to soft paisleys and water lilies — gussied up frisky bubble skirts, bustier dresses and safari jackets. Some were showered with rosettes, pearls, ruffles and beads. If it all sounds excessive for the times, it’s with good reason. “To hell with the crisis,” mused Rimondi backstage. “We want Italian-style joie de vivre to come back.” Luckily, the duo also developed a more commercial version of the lineup.



















































© by WWD / Photos by Dominique Maitre