It´s a common way for fashion houses that
when there´s an unexpected leaving of the creative director, all work,
direction included overcome to the creative team and the result, the
collections, are most of the time more safe, less bold or just a reflexion of
the leaving creative-director aesthetic. Let´s mind examples at Jil Sander or
Ann Demeulemeester. There are few rarities when a creative team surpasses or
even overshadow the last work of the former creative director, like it happened
with Alessandro Michele´s sort of revolution at Gucci. He knew that the Florentine
fashion house needs to be refreshed, rejuvenated and to court a younger
clientele. The result of his work in the last-two season as a creative director
and consequently all Gucci-hysteria during this time confirms that he is right
and that is going in the right direction. This is the same intent by the Dior
creative team, who realized the S/S 2016 haute couture collection and has also
been conscripted to realize the f/w 2016/2017 ready-to-wear collection shown in
March.
Under the helm of studio directors Serge
Ruffieux and Lucie Meier, the team produced a couture collection with a big
accent on the wearability as a couture´s new realism. They imagine a modern
Parisienne with her easy savoir-fair when combining clothes and accessories, by
offering a contemporary reinterpretation of the fashion house archive. A revisited
Bar jacket worn over panelled-skirt, a series of black tulle dresses with
deep-cut necklines inspired by the famous 1949 Dior Junon dress and those
off-shoulder coats and dresses, typical for Dior, are just some examples. In few words something less sculptural- immovably
and less Hollywood-Oscar-like gala dresses, but more practical, fresh and easy,
with that ready-to-wear aftertaste. Can that announce the end of the real
couture or it´s actually a clever way to maintain this noble tradition of
fashion in highest levels by drawing nearer to the young clientele and extending
the circle of (possible) new customers? Maybe.
Probably. As usual time will tell and confirm.
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