COUTURE´S NEW REALISM


It´s a common way for fashion houses that when there´s an unexpected leaving of the creative director, all work, direction included overcome to the creative team and the result, the collections, are most of the time more safe, less bold or just a reflexion of the leaving creative-director aesthetic. Let´s mind examples at Jil Sander or Ann Demeulemeester. There are few rarities when a creative team surpasses or even overshadow the last work of the former creative director, like it happened with Alessandro Michele´s sort of revolution at Gucci. He knew that the Florentine fashion house needs to be refreshed, rejuvenated and to court a younger clientele. The result of his work in the last-two season as a creative director and consequently all Gucci-hysteria during this time confirms that he is right and that is going in the right direction. This is the same intent by the Dior creative team, who realized the S/S 2016 haute couture collection and has also been conscripted to realize the f/w 2016/2017 ready-to-wear collection shown in March.

Under the helm of studio directors Serge Ruffieux and Lucie Meier, the team produced a couture collection with a big accent on the wearability as a couture´s new realism. They imagine a modern Parisienne with her easy savoir-fair when combining clothes and accessories, by offering a contemporary reinterpretation of the fashion house archive. A revisited Bar jacket worn over panelled-skirt, a series of black tulle dresses with deep-cut necklines inspired by the famous 1949 Dior Junon dress and those off-shoulder coats and dresses, typical for Dior, are just some examples.  In few words something less sculptural- immovably and less Hollywood-Oscar-like gala dresses, but more practical, fresh and easy, with that ready-to-wear aftertaste. Can that announce the end of the real couture or it´s actually a clever way to maintain this noble tradition of fashion in highest levels by drawing nearer to the young clientele and extending the circle of (possible) new customers?  Maybe. Probably. As usual time will tell and confirm.
































/ all original images and video courtesy of dior, except the original image courtesy of jason lloyd-evans /

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