I did a bit on purpose to wait with the Jil Sander S/S 2015 post; why? Mostly because my response right after seeing the collection would be a bit irrational, impulsive and by saying that not really a big lode to a new creative director. I need my time and I guess I took it way too much, that I almost forgot about the collection, till today. I knew that a new Raf Simons wouldn´t come. He was the only one, beside Jil, that made from a brand something of a cult. Rodolfo Paglialunga, former women’s-wear design director at Prada and creative director at Vionnet, as a brand new leading man got a big and not easy inheritance to take. By now, the brand´s famous androgynous look and design almost remains; for his debut collection, Paglialunga was inspired by a 1930´s Swiss writer and photographer, Annemarie Schwarzenbach, known for her genderless style. Knitwear with shirts underneath paired with pencil skirts or with really feminine apron-style skirts, elegant blouses with oversize shorts and tailored jackets with micro-tops, are examples how he mixed masculine and feminine elements. Let´s really wait (some time), to see results, before making a real work evaluation.
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