The “R” as Rudolf was present on the
invitation and as one of prints on several pieces through the whole collection.
The ballet world and especially Rudolf Nureyev were the main inspiration for
Dries Van Noten S/S 2015 menswear collection; both, the stage costumes and dancers
“behind the scene wear”. He researched all ballet costumes, to learn how the forms
changes while sitting, standing or in the motion.
Really low neckline t-shirts and tanks, the
tights of course and marvellous robes, such as fluid and silky trenches and
dust coats, embroidered bomber jacket, silky shirts, harnesses embellished with
bullion embroideries and the illustration of a naked male dancer made by
illustrator Richard Haines, used as a pattern on many pieces, even on a double-breasted
suit. The tailoring is loose in neutral, navy, vivid red, burgundy and bottle
green tones. With this collection Dries Van Noten marked his new direction; the
cool-rock era is over. Now he likes to see his man more sensual, natural and
less pretend-to be strong. Vulnerable moments included.
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