Yves Saint Laurent Men's RTW Fall 2010 / PFW-Day02

Although he has returned men's to a formal runway show, Stefano Pilati remains committed to film as a means of presenting fashion.

YSL screened a seven-minute Bruce Weber clip showing beautiful men and women frolicking in states of undress, setting an erotically charged mood for the androgyny-tinged show that followed. Feminine touches included pleated tunics and bell-shaped coats.

Meanwhile, the fabrics were dominated by manly flannel, charcoal and Prince of Wales check. The sumptuous and roomy coats, frequently cinched with fringed sashes, and draped, dropped-crotch trousers were both cozy and urbane, in contrast to so much rustic fare shown this season.

Even shearling coats, particularly a black one with white fleece, looked too precious for the countryside. Pilati proposed a puzzling new kind of suit, coupling blazers with matching ski-style jumpsuits.

Still, there was plenty of chic here, with Pilati’s cutting and sense of proportion on full-frontal display.

© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoniy

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