Dries Van Noten Men's RTW Fall 2010 / PFW-Day01

In lieu of an expensive audio system, hand-carried short-wave radios emitted hip-hop, rock and New Wave hits, a discordant soundtrack to match the clashing elements of this mash-up collection. Dries Van Noten braided together three strains of men’s fashion — Belgian modern, English heritage and Japanese-interpreted American sportswear — and not simply by styling them together, but by splicing fabrics together.

Contrasting sleeves were the main example, and at times were attached to linings only, leaving the innards of the shoulders to show. Van Noten’s familiar folkloric pattern mixes were replaced by English patterns, especially loud club stripes. Cavalry fabrics and Harris tweeds added outdoorsy texture to blazers and tailored coats with structured shoulders. The overall silhouette remained roomy and cinched high on the waist.

Cropped, triple-pleat trousers alternated with bunchy fleece sweatpants. Some gorgeous classics with a twist, such as a cashmere sweater with a slight scoop neck and a camel peacoat with epaulets, were the high points of the collection. Fashion loves a hybrid, but perhaps three parents are one too many.

© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni

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