Derek Lawlor Loops Us In

This CSM graduate has continued his special trademark cord knitwear technique for his S/S 10 collection.

Text by Susie Bubble

London isn’t short of individual and unique knitwear designers but it’s no bad thing if Derek Lawlor is to be lumped into this burgeoning fashion genre because his very own specific technique of cordworking makes him stand out from the rest. Inspired by Japanese body armour, Lawlor uses wax cord to create shapes and loops on cashmere dresses, a technique he has been developing since his MA days. During London Fashion Week, he showed his S/S 10 collection, which was a definite continuation from his work at school with a greater emphasis on ready to wear. We spoke to Lawlor to find out how he creates his loops and an upcoming designer collaboration.

What have you been up to since graduating?
Derek Lawlor: Since I have graduated in February I have been working on various different projects such as styling and consultancy for a couple of different companies. I have also produced a collection for CoutureLab which is now available on a made to order basis at there Davies Street Boutique. I have been developing my cord work technique, producing a Spring/Summer 2010 collection, which I showed at Blackall Studios in Shoreditch as part of London Fashion Week.

How did you develop you specific style of knitwear with the giant
Derek Lawlor: I have been developing my cordwork embellishment since graduating from my BA degree at St Martins over 2 years ago. The MA course allowed me to really push it and develop a technique which started off quite simple and grew in something much bigger. Coming from a Textile design background I have always been producing different types of fabrics so my cord technique came quite naturally- there’s so much more I can do with my cord work. I'm excited to push it even further!

What inspired your latest collection?
Derek Lawlor: My S/S10 collection was working from my MA collection except I wanted to produce more wearable 'bespoke' separates, which stayed true to my technique. The new collection saw some new approaches with the cord embellishment- I produced new embedded cord patterned skirts which were inspired Celtic knit patterns, as well as producing some cord knots which made the most amazing neckline.
The white pieces were done out of curiosity- I kept dreaming about seeing my collection completely in whites but wasn't sure it would work. Once the white cord overlapped each other I knew I was on to a good thing- the white pieces are probably my favourite pieces from my most recent collection.

What do you hope to achieve for next season?
Derek Lawlor: I’ve got lots of different things I want to do- I'm excited about A/W10, knitwear is in its element and I get to get a bit more eccentric- I have developed some new techniques which I'm looking forward to pushing forward. I have also been working on a collaboration with a design house which will see my knitwear in completely different aesthetic - I can’t say too much- but keep an eye out!

© by DazedDigital

No comments:

Post a Comment