White Homme A/W 2009-10

The focus at Milan’s White Homme was on denim, streetwear and knitwear.
Text by Anna Batista

There were three main themes at Milan’s White Homme - the White Show event dedicated to menswear - creativity, research and craftsmanship. The focus was on denim, streetwear and knitwear with around 60 modern and cutting edge brands carefully selected by the White Show presenting their products through clever installations.

Different cult brands introduced new lines and collections that, shunning trends, concentrated on research and technique. Among them there were also Wrangler’s “Blue Bell”, a limited collection inspired by the denims designed by Bernard Lichtenstein AKA “Rodeo Ben”, a Polish tailor who created jeans suitable for rodeo use, and Cover, a brand originally founded in Italy over 30 years ago, that experimented with Japanese denims and different washes, launching the “C+ Cover Rebuilding” line. Japan was also present at White Homme with Edwin, one of the denim leaders in Tokyo since the 1960s. Edwin’s new collection wisely combined the American denim heritage with Oriental inspirations, using handmade fabrics and natural dyes.

A special mention goes to the installation curated by White Design for the historical American brand Filson that launched in 1897 in Seattle its first clothing line for prospectors. Visitors and buyers were taken back to the gold rush era to celebrate the brand’s new collection, very aptly entitled “Gold Rush”, that mixed vintage inspirations and Filson’s heritage with modern functionality. Jackets in waterproof canvas and leather bags called to mind the clothes and accessories used by prospectors, but their cut had a urbanely modern twist.

Sportswear was also celebrated at White Homme with designs by Be Positive and Testa Rotta Team (TRT). The former presented its dynamic footwear that mixes classic suede and leather shoes with sneakers; inspired by The Giants’ victory in 1951, TRT got the right balance between sportswear, traditions and luxury, creating a collection that combines vintage with functionality, using Japanese and American jerseys for T-shirts and sweatshirts and Kurabo denim for trousers woven on old looms.

An important part of the event was dedicated to knitwear characterised by timeless design and craftmanship. Recession brings new shopping habits and, following the “slow luxury” trend, the White Homme dedicated a wide section to all those fashionistas looking for durability and quality in their clothes. Goffredo Contini’s Aube launched comfy and refined, yet glamorously modern knitwear in neutral tones; the Biella-based Masserano Cashmere presented slippers, gloves and dressing gowns in pure cashmere or cashmere and silk, and precious scarves made on ancient looms from the 1800s. Yarn designer Giorgio Spina launched his first menswear collection, entirely made with precious yarns and featuring well-executed designs and seductively soft and versatile garments with a relaxed coolness about them.

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