A model wakes up in bed, in the middle of a painter’s atelier. She stays in her pajama but slips on a gabardine trench coat and a pair of simple, two-strap stilettos and walks out.  Such is the beginning of Hermès’ creative director Christophe Lemaire’s own show, and it successfully gets the point across: indoor-inspired pieces that are practical and can be worn round the clock.

Pajama-like suits and T-shirt dresses, in anthracite, speckled blue or Bordeaux, mark the beginning of the show. The silhouette is set: buttoned up men’s shirt paired with a baggy bottom layer, sometimes tucked in, sometimes worn out and embellished with a high waisted belt. The trousers’ hemline varies from cropped bermudas to an ankle-revealing length, and a floor-sweeping one for the night.

The influences are multiple, and, true to form, hint at worldwide workwear: A denim suit’s apparent stitching at the pockets nudges at cargo pants, a straight-cut jacket with a Mandarin collar references Chinese bleu de travail, and a simple white cotton tie-belt is borrowed from classical Japanese menswear. A frontier-less show without a doubt. 9

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