NEW DESIGNER // SILVINA MAESTRO / S/S2013 "THEOREMA" / LOOKBOOK


















































Silvina Maestro graduated from Central Saint Martins and was immediately offered a job at Givenchy in Paris were she designed the jersey garments for the PrĂȘt-a-Porter, assisting designer Riccardo Tisci. She also worked for Emilio de la Morena; as work experience with Boudicca and had the honour of completing a long internship and later on freelancing with the late Alexander McQueen.
She has rece

ntly been selected as one of the 10 finalists for the prestigious Fashion Fringe competition by John Galliano.

Her label’s ethos encompasses a unique stance on design and fashion as a creative expression and an art form promoting pure creativity.
A former Literature student, Silvina strives to bring a sense of narrative and poetry to her designs.

Her first collection AW 2010 called “Alba Lux” has gained the attention of the international press with her designs appearing in magazines like Vogue.

“Flowers grow pale in the twilight” is Silvina Maestro’s second collection. Inspired by the Austrian composer Gustav Mahler’s work, especially the last movement of his Das Lied von der Erde ("The Song of the Earth") called “The Farewell” and his Third Symphony.
In “The Farewell” Mahler deals with a sense of rootlessness or “otherness” and his increasing awareness of mortality. It depicts a Dionysian plenitude of Nature, the beautiful landscape of a summer sunset in which the air turns cold and flowers lose their colour as Mahler bids farewell to a dying friend.

The collection was also inspired by thoughts of the quest for eternal beauty as shown in one of Silvina’s favourite films, Death in Venice by Luchino Visconti , based on the novel by Thomas Mann and inspired by Mahler’s life.
The flowers are a central part of the collection as a symbol of beauty and the inexorability of time. “I started with this idea of flowers in the darkness of night , their beauty being revealed only in the instant when the flash hits them when the picture is taken, I was attracted to the idea of the beauty we can’t see anymore because of the dark”, says the designer. “I also thought about the metal wreaths I see in La Recoleta cemetery in Buenos Aires and their circular shape symbolising eternity”.
The blooms are a direct reference to the orientalism in Mahler’s “Song of the Earth” that was inspired itself by Chinese poetry.
The collections merges juxtaposing shades ,shapes and textures; those of nature like flowers with geometrical construction , the ethereal almost metaphysical organza with earthy leather, the fluidity and purity of garments cut with the least possible seams or even without them at all contrasted to whimsical gathering , the black and the white, the darkness with the light, in an aesthetic that can be described as graphic romanticism

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