John Bartlett RTW Fall 2010 / NYCFW-Day01

Showing a fondness for androgynous silhouettes, Bartlett, who showed women’s for the first time since spring 2001, had his woman dressed for a riding party at an English country manor: Tapered trousers, snug vests and plaid button-downs dominated, cut narrow and lending a tomboyish appeal. Bartlett kept the palette muted and the fabrics rich, as with a tweed vest and a smart wool blazer, plus plenty of corduroy. An edge crept in via a leather shirt and pants, but Bartlett was effective in putting forth a cozy and collegiate, if occasionally bland, uniform.

In men’s wear, the beefy silhouette of this tweedy Seventies show enhanced a man’s solidity — while leathers and boyish knickers hinted at a freewheeling private life.

© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni

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