Helmut Lang RTW Fall 2010 / NYCFW Day-04

“We were inspired by the concept of urban expansion,” said Michael Colovos. While “urban” is nothing new chez Lang, the beauty of the line is that Michael and Nicole Colovos are able to serve up so many alluring variations on that theme. This time around, architect Santiago Calatrava provided the inspirational hook, resulting in spliced motifs aplenty: leather sleeves grafted onto a cotton wool jacket with a shearling collar or a fur-lined leather hoodie accented with ribbed knit inserts. The designers stuck to the usual draping/structure contrast — a theme that echoed in the separate denim collection, also edgy and tough-chic — and emphasized tights and trousers, a marked shift from their previous leggings focus. As for the palette, they kept things spare in blacks and grays, punched up by the occasional digital print. Here, that urban buzz word continues; the slightly futuristic patterns are based on actual images of concrete and gravel.

© by WWD / Photos by Thomas Iannaccone

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