Halston RTW Fall 2010 / NYCFW Day-06

If improvement could be measured by the well-wishing — and alternately gawking — attendees of this label’s highly anticipated presentation, then Halston is in for a very good fall. Missing from the schedule last season, the collection, now under the vision of London-based Marios Schwab, was appealingly modern. “I used the archive from memory, and I wanted to take elements that I love about Halston and transform them,” Schwab explained. (Afterwards, he warmly greeted Halston’s new chief creative officer Sarah Jessica Parker, who had nothing to do with the fall lineup.) That transformation meant modifying Halston signatures — sexy liquid gowns, pop colors — by adding structure and doing a palette inspired by “The Eyes of Laura Mars” (think cool taupe, dusky blue and violet). He kept some of the looks Ibiza-ready: a velvet cocktail option with crystals studding the neckline; a bright saffron crepe number with a glittering belt and cutouts around the torso. And while there was plenty of jersey, other fabrics lent a sculptural quality, like the red wool dress with epaulets. Leather and duchesse satin were also part of the story, the latter worked into great draped cocktail dresses. Halston’s girl may still hit the town, but she has a bit more discretion.

© by WWD / Photos by Thomas Iannaccone

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