Lagerfeld started out with a focus on structure and intriguing architectural cuts (e.g., the opening cocoonlike fur coat with a sliced-out arch in the front) before moving on to roomier and more relaxed silhouettes. To wit, stylish smock dresses came with wide bishop sleeves, some with cascading drape details, while tailored vests and coatdresses were cut into swingy trapeze shapes. He threw in a faint Forties-meets-Seventies vibe, too — maxi circle skirts, long gilets and an earthy palette of mustards, browns and hunter greens — and kept things relatively simple, such as the terrific spare felt coat, navy on one side, olive on the other. The no-nonsense accessories, including laced boots with rubber tips, only boosted the runway’s refreshingly sensible mood.
Now, as for the furs, they were excellent, some of the best and most diverse of the season. They came delightfully patchworked; thin, almost fabriclike, in elegant wrap dresses, and ultraluxe as in the lynx coat à la Cruella de Vil that costs a whopping 250,000 euros.
© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni
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