The first look—a three-button camel blazer in a double-faced fabric, worn with black flares—hit the golden ratio. It was retro yet subdued and urbane all at the same time. “There's everything conceivable around us, and I thought the coolest thing would be to do something normal,” said Prada. “My intention was to work on nothingness, on banality.”
A quartet of shrunken sweaters, layered under suits, heralded the arrival of color: Lemon, watermelon, orchid, lapis. Raincoats and skater jackets came in blaring camouflage and other loud patterns. And then the hues and patterns began clashing in earnest.
The deliberate bad taste looked aggressively young rather than garish. If it was at all nostalgic, the proportions of Prada’s suits and coats, the flare of the trousers, the too-long sleeves and shrunken scoop-neck sweaters brought to mind a boy who is too big for some of his Sunday clothes and not yet grown into others.
For the first time, Prada simultaneously showed women’s pre-fall, which was cut from the same fabrics and reinforced the “Brady Bunch” vibe. By the last looks, which looked like vinyl, Prada had put the fun and brightness back in fashion. Gray is but a memory now.
© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni
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