Jil Sander Men's Fall RTW 2010 / MFW-Day 01

Hyperkinetic pacing and blistering techno music set an aggressively modern tone at Jil Sander, where Raf Simons’ flawless tailoring provided a clean canvas for an eccentric experiment with patches shaped like tumbled rocks.

They looked geometric and organic at the same time, and were functional, too: as pockets, fasteners or waist tabs on impeccable suits and cabans. The retro-futuristic shapes also appeared in the textures of sweaters and were applied to leather shoes.

For his best suits, Simons let unique fabrics—blurred checks and mod micro-patterns with minute, but intense threads of color—do the talking. For the outerwear statement, short duvet jackets had extra volume and an exterior layer of fabric for a smooth hermetic surface, and curiously rotund shapes.

Simons offered plenty of newness and distinction for fashion-forward modernists, and at the same time, made it easy to see how the pieces could be modified to be more commercial.

© by WWD / Photos by Davide Maestri

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