Ann Demeulemeester Men's RTW Fall 2010 / PFW-Day03

Other designers of dark, glamorous clothes may get more attention these days, but Demeulemeester remains the authority. Her collection marked a return to structure, but never stricture.

Trousers were skinny, but expandable by zippers, with waists gathered like paper bags and belted repeatedly. Blazers with squared-off shoulders came in washed fabrics, shadow stripes and jacquards, and were often worn with a longer piece underneath for a layered look that never seemed heavy.

Belted wrap coats featured cowl-necks for a bundled appearance. The brooding sense of melancholy lifted when boas and trims burst with exuberant cock feathers.

































© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni