It made for an interesting and often strong journey. Rather than succumb to the genre’s frivolity, Pilati chose to control it, creating a tension both compelling and odd. A floor-length wrap dress with tailored notched lapels had a big, counterintuitive hem flounce; vests got precision-pleated pinwheel borders. Only rarely did Pilati embellish with color, choosing a perky strawberry motif. Here, a tiny print dress looked young and feisty, while giant appliqués did nothing to de-frump a long, clunky skirt. Conversely, leather lederhosen will thrill — and look amazing on — the editorial and young party girl sets, but have little viability beyond those circles.
Not so Pilati’s other offerings. His dresses were as varied as an aggressive leather halter and a conservative chic blue periwinkle number with a whiff of the Eighties; sportswear ranged from decorative collared riffs on Flemish portraiture to a jaunty double-faced shorts suit with a sleeveless jacket and a gray cutaway vest over matching trousers. If such diversity made the lineup a bit discordant, it ensures that, come spring, Pilati’s Saint Laurent woman will find plenty to suit her.
© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni
Yves Saint Laurent WEBsite
No comments:
Post a Comment