RM by Roland Mouret S/S 2010 / PFW / Day eight

Roland Mouret’s show notes read like a coded disclaimer for a discombobulated mess: “This is not about a single aesthetic, a single show, a single dress.” Yet what followed was a cohesive collection full of great color, texture and, above all, items, including pleated silk gazar pedal pushers, asymmetric cloque jumpsuits and a biker jacket with crisp folded details. Such geometry is a Mouret signature, one he worked to flattering functionality with squares of fabric that appeared as draped tops or skirts. Between the body-skimming silhouettes, conceal-and-reveal cuts, and some sharp angles on stiff raffia boleros — one of the collection’s few missteps — the clothes left an edgy but approachable impression that will appeal to the savvy shopper.

© by WWD / Photos by Dominique Maitre

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