Kenzo S/S 2009/2010 / PFW / Day eight

Antonio Marras has aligned Kenzo with fanciful flights of ethnic fashion. At times, it has bordered on the zany and overbearing, but this season, he toned things down — way down — reining in his wild decorative touches and offering cleaner silhouettes in billowing silks. In the program notes, Marras said the inspiration was the Sahara as depicted by the likes of Paul Bowles and Eugène Delacroix. This translated into drop-crotch trousers, flowing djellabas and military-style jackets, which Marras cut in Moorish-style prints or desert stripes in khaki and blue. Mixed with these were sequined jackets, semitransparent camouflage tanks, white lace suits and intricate patchwork knits. Nice enough, but they lacked the dangerous energy and mystery of a desert. Marras’ more memorable statement came with the flowing silk ensembles in orange, turquoise and purple — somewhat ethnic Saint Laurent in flavor — that closed the show.

© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni

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