Miu Miu S/S 2010 / PFW / Day eight

“Innocence and youth. What does it mean today in a world that’s so the opposite?” was the question Miuccia Prada said she posed with her spring Miu Miu collection. A deep thought, indeed, and one loaded with possibilities in a fashion context.

Prada explored the idea through a Seventies lens, beginning with retro pantsuits and prints — pastel pink and baby blue cats, birds and naked ladies, set on navy and black — worn head-to-toe, sometimes all together. Buttoned-up silk blouses with long shirt collars were worn with cropped jackets and slim pants — conservative and covered-up until details, such as a ruffled lapel or bondage-like strap, drew the eye directly to the bust.

Enter the subversive sex appeal. Some little-girl dresses paired with printed Mary Janes had bikini-top cutouts or bosom harnesses, others came with crisscross crop tops that left a tease of exposed flesh above an A-line skirt. Such prettily suggestive fare soon turned straight sexy when Prada pushed the naughty/nice counterpoint with sweet smocked dresses with sheer nude panels spangled like a showgirl around the breasts. It was a spectacle that flaunted Prada’s way with duality. On one hand, the clothes could be pondered as metaphors — nostalgia, jailbait, good girl gone bad. Or they could be taken at face value, like most shoppers will, as straight chic.

© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni

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