Jean Paul Gaultier S/S 2010 / PFW / Day four

It’s coming up on 20 years since Madonna anointed Jean Paul Gaultier an iconic brassiere engineer. Lest anyone forget his once-provocative contribution to the fashion landscape, Gaultier anchored his spring collection with those pointy peaks, a flashback that fit right into the season’s lingering lingerie trend.

First out, an ode to late-Eighties/early-Nineties hip-hop by way of a Levis collaboration featuring denim overalls fitted with bustier bibs. Next, a sporty military romp filled with combat boots and deconstructed utility gear layered with satin corsets and bra tops. There were parachute dresses and football motifs, followed by a sudden left turn into slinky silk dresses with plunging V-necks.

The one common thread among these choppy vignettes: cone bras, which sometimes appeared as shoulder pads, butt pads and hip pads, and were fully unleashed for the finale’s stripped-down underwear extravaganza. Eyeing the goods from the front row were Katy Perry, done up soigné, and Rihanna, in Gaultier’s aggressive leather and bondage. Both could find performance gear suited to their respective tastes on the runway. Those who live life offstage can play it safe with the great Gaultier staples — trenches and tailored pieces — disguised in the mix.

© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni

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