Givenchy S 2010 / PFW / Day five

Anyone questioning the fuss surrounding Riccardo Tisci — his disciples are routinely moved to emotional applause, even tears, at his bow — his spring collection for Givenchy offered a clue. He got off to a striking start with a black-and-white graphic break-up on tuxedo-inspired looks, such as sharp striped blazers and silk dresses done with contrasting lapels. More counterpoint ensued with a hard-angled print on soft, ruffled dresses.

Tisci has a way of making traditionally romantic motifs dead serious. Indeed, his ruffles, precision-cut with a hint of Victoriana, had an edge, but also a refreshing feminine ease. That was amplified on gossamer confections whipped around the body in Grecian drapes, some topped with a shrug or shoulder decorations that looked like pastel candy. Sweeter still were the angelic white dresses, some with a graphic lace pattern, that closed the show.

It was all gorgeously crafted, and Tisci managed to make familiar silhouettes, baby dolls and trapeze tops worn over skinny or drop-crotch pants, feel new. Most importantly, he didn’t get mired in excessive bondage or overwrought ideas here. By avoiding those traps, he let chic shine brightly.

© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni

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