Marni S/S 2010 / MFW / Day four

Consuelo Castiglioni made a beeline for gentler turf this spring; she collapsed all the structure and put the focus on, as the show notes read, “a new sense of ease and fluidity.” And speak easy she did — charmingly so. In fact, that relaxed sensibility took on an almost pajama-esque nonchalance. Robes masqueraded as softened-up jackets and coats, while dresses and tops were loosely cut to casual shift or T-shirt effect. Even a tailored blazer, with shoulder cutouts and an alluring knot in the back, draped languidly off the body. Her palette took the quiet tack, as well — dusty hues, briefly broken up by big splashy florals. But Castiglioni didn’t slack on her offbeat patterns and magpie layering m.o.’s. Here, they only amplified the pretty déshabillé, creating a peasant-grunge vibe. And with those printed head wraps and abundant polkadots and stripes, mostly combo-ed into one outfit, the runway occasionally winked at pirate chic, too.

But for all that seeming spontaneity, the lineup still read pulled-together sophisticate. Case in point: the lovely two-tone blouse paired with a knit pencil skirt. And that’s the beauty of Castiglioni’s collection. Off the runway and on the rack, there will be plenty of wonderful, wearable clothes.

© by WWD / Photos by Mauricio Miranda

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