Fendi S/S 2010 / MFW / Day four

Storm on out of here, you urban warriors of fall. For spring, Karl Lagerfeld has cast his lot with a gentler type, putting himself in league with Milan’s prevailing motif. For the Fendi collection he showed on Sunday, Lagerfeld’s set announced his change of mood: His backdrop was a gauzy scrim etched with flowers that ran up and over the length of the runway, forming a canopy of sorts. This signaled the designer’s newfound lightness, and a feeling decidedly more romantic than most of his work for Fendi.

The show featured an engaging game of peekaboo — one involving more than those fabulous bags. With his focus on sheer and a dreamy palette of faded pastels, Lagerfeld played the lingerie card to terrific effect. Billowy dresses and blouses in chiffons and mousselines looked fragile as a cloud over slightly naughty, though never vulgar, bras; more structured fare — an organza shirt over apple green shorts, for example — introduced a savvy sportif to the see-through scenery. More practical still, short skirts cut with controlled volume offered an alternative to the flou season.

But then, Lagerfeld is no Mr. Me Too. Nor can he help but flex the gutsy muscle, often by tinkering with a classic. Here he festooned the simple white tank dress with shredded fabric scraps, transforming it from simple to sensational.

© by WWD / Photos by Davide Maestri

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