Alberta Ferretti S/S 2010 / MFW / Day two

From the first looks out — sheer organza shirting and ethereal Ophelia gowns — it was clear that Alberta Ferretti wanted to tinker with her signature airiness. Whereas in New York, at her Philosophy presentation, those lightened-up inclinations veered clean, beachy and sportif, here the buoyancy took a breathtaking modern Edwardian turn, accentuated by a dusty palette of soft blush, lilac, slate gray and lemon. But Ferretti didn’t overindulge in romantic reveling; the collection exuded controlled sophistication right down to the models’ fresh-scrubbed faces and minimal accoutrements. (A handful of hats and belts played the starring role here.)

Ferretti took a gentle hand with her oft-used splicing and layering techniques. She rendered the former in beautiful mash-ups of structured tailoring and Grecian draping — a sheath-cum-goddess frock and a cinched shirtdress with panels of Fortuny-like pleating — while the latter also came via gossamer dresses cut like aprons and layered over shorts, slips and various underpinnings. But lest things get too calm, Ferretti spruced up the show with florals in exquisite embroideries and appliqués. Boosting that subtle gardening theme were chic pinafore add-ons, executed to charming latticework effect. Simply gorgeous.

© by WWD / Photos by Mauricio Miranda

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