Jewels in a dark crown

Here are the shoots some of the most exciting new talents in men’s S/S 10 jewellery design.

Styling by Anna Trevelyan Text by Kat George

This month we have some shots of the newest talents in men’s jewellery and accessory design...

Mouton Collet

Belgian duo
Mouton Collet invoke the spirit of the forest and a country landscape with their animalistic jewellery for men…

What influences your designs?
MoutonCollet: Most of our influences are linked to the Belgian countryside, a world of silence in the middle of nature. We focus on farm animals, the gardens, meadows leading to a rural and forest jewelry. The side of the taxidermy laboratory, hunters of insects fascinates us. Other influences come from Jacques Tati, Marcel Duchamp and Matthew Barney.

What is the MoutonCollet philosophy and signature piece?
MoutonCollet: MoutonCollet is a game of contrast and opposition. Our signature is to adopt another language and confront the beautiful and the ugly, attraction and repulsion. For us, the object becomes jewelry and jewelry becomes the object. Our jewelry tells a story that becomes a message, a memory, a smell, a magic talisman borrowing, a Belgitude Campagnarde for precious jewels.

What are your plans for the future?
MoutonCollet: In the future we still want pretty artistic encounters, to create a universe
and position MoutonCollet in the jewelry industry. We’d also like to address other media and products with a line of shoes, bags ,fine jewelry....










Tobias Wistisen

Talismanic shrunken heads and other tribal influences pervade
Tobias Wistisen's handmade rock'n'roll collections...

What influences your designs?
Tobias Wistisen: I find inspiration in everything I see and hear and all the expositions I go to see of course. But what really influences me when I draw my collections is music, because it puts me in different moods according to the time of day or the type of music. It puts me in a certain state of mind or attitude, that for me is just as important as the images about architecture, folklore, armory ect. that I collect when I do research.

What is the Tobias Wistisen philosophy and signature piece?
Tobias Wistisen: The philosophy or idea about my jewelry, is that one should get a truly handmade piece that will adapt to the person wearing it and the way it is worn. That is why I use a lot of leather, because it gets worn in and can change color and texture according to how, where and who wears it. So you'll end up with a truly personal piece. I also work a lot on the oxidation so that no pieces are exactly the same. In terms of signature pieces... Skulls do seem to make their way into every collection. But I do new versions every season and try to turn them into something different - like the Split Skull that is sliced into 8 pieces, or my Laughing Skull that has the necklace going through the eyes and has lines from Alice in Wonderland engraved all over.

What are your plans for the future?
Tobias Wistisen: My future plan is first of all to start doing women's jewelry line. Some of the pieces that I do now can be considered unisex, but it will be fun and a new challenge to do a pure women's collection. I would also like to do a collaboration with a traditional old jewelry brand/house because I think that my approach to jewelry design is quite different to theirs and the result of such a collaboration could be very cool and interesting









Philippe Roucou

Crafted from fine animal skins including goat, python, calf, lamb and deer,
Philippe Roucou's bags and wallets embody the undersated elegance of Parisian chic...

What influences your designs?
Philippe Roucou: Each collection is influenced by a different subject, which interests me at that moment. It can vary from contemporary art, architecture, contemporary dance or cities... We had work on our past collections with subjects such as Bauhaus, Roland Garros, Surrealism, the portrait of Dorian grey, Russian Constructivism, Brasilia or Chandigard...

What is the Philippe Roucou philosophy and signature piece?
Philippe Roucou: The basis of our label is quality and French "savoir faire" leather goods, which we integrate with our creative and innovative volumes... We struggle to keep our studio in Paris a laboratory of experimentation and make all our collections ourselves. The signature pieces are our traditional luggage inspired volumes, which we have been following from the beginning of our label. For instance Beyrouth, airport or Kobenhavn.

What are your plans for the future?
Philippe Roucou: For the last season we’ve been expanding our brand by proposing different lines as mens, womens, night bags, wallets and belts collection. Our latest creation, which we are very proud, is "objets trouves", which is a line of photo quality printed silk scarves. This project is the collaboration with contemporary artist M. Chèrie.







CREDITS

Photography Saga Sigurdardottir
Styling Anna Trevelyan
Hair Hiroshi Matsushita using Bumble and Bumble
Make up Thomas de Kluyver using MACModel Sam Jadwat @ D1

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